A couple of things to think about; start with Press being purchased by Onward Kashiyama in 1896. Press is no longer Press, for those of us that long for the old days.

Post #15 by Hank illustrates what happened. Entirely different jackets. http://www.ivy-style.com/shade-of-grey-j-press-silk-linen-spring-sportcoat.html

By most standards, this is a fine jacket, but far from being Ivy. This is probably a Southwick, Douglas model. Look at the padded shoulders, and the placement of the buttons on the gorge.

Sharply different from the second jacket that Hard Bop Hank posts. That one is true Ivy, IMO. Natural shoulders, 3 roll to 2 button placement on the gorge, no darts. So unusual in US that most dry cleaners think the top button is to be buttoned, and finish pressing it accordingly.

This leads to the point. Kashiama calls the shots in what used to be JP in the US, and probably only wants the label, to satisfy what the consumer in Japan deems to be US Ivy style. Works for them apparently. They own no stores in Japan, but have many departments, in department stores using the JP brand. The US operation is so small that it probably doesn't amount to a rounding error, on their P&L.

If there is ever any doubt about what has happened in the US, go back @ 3 years, when JP carried lapel pins that read TRAD. It even remotely possible that anyone bought and wore one of these?

YES.

Last edited by Yuca (2012-05-21 14:46:16)

I think by gorge he meant lapel.

^Too small a demographic I suspect, J.Press are probably making all the right moves to support their business model.

In which case, like Brooks they can be a valuable source of the remnants of the Ivy tradition: key researched purchases. Case in point the thin knitted ties in black and navy available through their on line shop.

Last edited by Hard Bop Hank (2012-05-22 05:43:34)

Amen.

I agree with you all. Unfortunately, I did not know the companies and stuff before they changed. I buy modern Brooks, too , and hope they will continue their shirts with collar/sleeve length-options. It may be silly and sentimental, but with an BBOBD, i feel somehow conected to a "better world".

Sometimes I wonder if it would be worth to stop moaning in small circles like the fora and start a campaign on facebook - if BB are on there. who knows, when they get the impression there is an MARKET for shirts with unlined collars and for a range of single "heritage"-items like a blazer how it used to be, they might do small runs. Consumer empowerment is a positive aspect of the web and there are a lot of cases who prove it works. Just see at LE, who stopped their KJP-copy. I do that mean as a neutral example.

I think there might be some echo from the trad crowd, Japan and all the other pockets of enthusiasts in the world. The only point I am not sure about is the actual sales this would generate if BB got activated.

"Bring back the #1 sack suit, Brooks Brothers!!!"

on Facebook??? Spamming their page everyday??? Like they do with my e-Mail-account???

Last edited by One For Bop (2012-05-23 02:56:54)

I think the problem is I don't know enough about tailoring to say whether or not it is good, at them moment I get the impression it is kind of looking like a kit-car does to the real thing, look at the one I posted looks like the notch doesn't line up with the gorge. It's stuff like that I notice on their stuff, and I don't know wether it is something to be bothered by cause I don't make clothes so I don't really know.