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#1 2012-07-08 08:37:03

MarkCoyle
Member
Posts: 410

The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Hi all

last week I was wandering around London trying to find a decent unstructured or natural shoulder navy summer blazer.  I didn't want a hipster look, or heavy wool, or the distressed look, or to pay a silly figure.  I especially didn't want gold naval buttons.   I did want a split centre vent, notched lapels, patch pockets, so have been hunting high and low (I have ordered one but always welcome further thoughts).

So as well as going in all the branded shops I tried all the vintage shops and was astonished at the prices for very mediocre clothing.   Shops such as Wow-Retro, RokIt, those in Soho, Vintage Showroom and many more wanted insane prices for clothing that was plain wrong from either a British tailoring perspective or an Ivy one.   These jackets often had poor quality fabric, lapels that were far too large, too bulky, patterns nobody could wear due to their garishness, sizing that was tiny and more problems.    For these the prices appeared to start at £60-80 and rise sometimes up to £200.   For that I could get a new Gant or RL jacket that was right from the off or use Old Town Clothing and have one made up  bespoke by British tailors (see http://old-town.co.uk/products/stanley.htm)

I envisage the market for these shops is people like us and students.   Surely students won't pay those prices, especially when equivalent jackets can be had on eBay for £20-£30 (I sold a perfect Ivy League blazer there recently for £30 that didn't fit).

I have noticed the price in Nottingham vintage shops creep up too.   Am I alone in thinking that these shops cannot justify these prices, they won't sell enough and many will close leading to the collapse of the artificial boom?   There just isn't that much quality vintage to be had, so there appear to be dozens of shops full of unattractive but overpriced items.

I've been researching, collecting and writing about clothes for twenty years so surely if these items were good labels, I and we would know.   The reason they are sat on the racks is because they aren't or have some underlying problem.  There are bargains to be had but often the expectation of the owners far outstrips the worth of the items in my view.

These often aren't selected items that have been sourced carefully such as at John Simons (or to be fair Vintage Showroom) but sometimes little more than tat.   RokIt had a couple of decent inexpensive jackets but mostly the prices were just daft.    None of the jackets I'm referring to were such as BB, Haspel, Paul Stuart, Norman Hilton, Magee, Dunn, Andover, Duchamp, Gant, original Dunhill, Burberry, Paul Smith etc., they were minor or unbranded names.

So I am very interested in the thoughts of people here.   Thanks everyone.

Last edited by MarkCoyle (2012-07-08 10:02:24)

 

#2 2012-07-08 09:52:00

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3280

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

I find the majority of vintage shops are loaded with the garish nasty and current vogue of bad 80s wear. Never found a nice jacket in any of the mentioned stores, exception being The Vintage Showroom, where I looked in on Thursday. But I did feel their prices have increased a fair but, and pretty much always big sizes.

 

#3 2012-07-08 10:15:52

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

The mass vintage bubble will burst. The good vintage guys will remain.

 

#4 2012-07-08 10:32:15

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Mark, slightly off topic, sorry about that, but have you bought from http://old-town.co.uk/products/stanley.htm yet?

Discounting all the Mary Poppins type Victorian workman's gear, some of their jackets and trousers look quite interesting. The Borough jacket has a looser fit and the labels could perhaps be steamed into a 3/2 roll - an alternative slack coat?  The trouser cuts have nice high waists, always difficult to find these days, the Stovepipe and Plain look quite ivy appopriate.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#5 2012-07-08 10:39:48

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

A lot of the stuff in Rokit and shops of that ilk appears to be purpose manufactured for the vintage market and subjected to a process that makes it look old and worn. 99% of the stuff in these places is complete tuut, however I have found the odd decent shirt by Gant, Arrow, LL Bean etc, but it requires dedicated, regular searching and I'm less and less bothered.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#6 2012-07-08 11:44:13

MarkCoyle
Member
Posts: 410

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Yes it's a difficulty, buy vintage or save up and buy reproduction / contemporary Ivy.   I'm tending to the later subject to eBay and ETSY finds.

I haven't bought from Old Town yet.  Odd as it may seem I'm waiting for a special occasion on which to mark it by treating myself to one of their jackets.  It would then be something to remember.  As you say Woofboxer, some of the items look appropriate.  Some of course do not and pick up on the fashion workwear trend coming out of Scandinavia.

cheers
Mark

 

#7 2012-07-08 11:53:21

Axelist
Talker of the talk, walker of the walk.
From: age
Posts: 1223

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

I think it went downhill when secondhand became "vintage". Also, it's got to do with supply and demand. Supply has its natural limitations. For each new enthusiast  into ivy, one has to go, I sometimes think.

I used to buy a lot of used stuff when I was a young cowtown mod in the 80s. Also later, I bought some stuff when I was in Antwerp or Amsterdam. In my town, there are only a few shops I know of. The chance to find something of inerest there is about zero.

Interesting bit about stuff being made for these shops. I had this feeling the last time when I was in the local army surplus shop. Most of their stuff did not look like army let alone surplus.


Just to get a repp..

 

#8 2012-07-08 13:45:00

Richard Bergman
Sock it to 'em R.B. !
Posts: 583

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Todays vintage offerings remind me of this:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNxbBivguIs

Last edited by Richard Bergman (2012-07-08 13:46:42)

 

#9 2012-07-08 15:15:21

One For Bop
Mr. Ivy
From: time to time.
Posts: 1464

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

I know it's not great to buy things without trying them on, but if you're sure of your sizes and buy from one of the respected sellers on here, you seem to get a better deal than going vintage up-town.


''By hurling yourself into the abyss you discover its a feather bed.”

 

#10 2021-10-23 07:32:25

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Bump. 
Hope AUS doesn't object, but I'm becoming increasingly disillusioned with the 'vintage' shops I visit.  On the other hand, I have to acknowledge that they're scarcely looking to sell to someone of my age/height/weight/inclinations but for someone perhaps thirty five years younger: people like my daughter, now at Nottingham University and finding her way, gradually, to shops like 'Wild', 'Cow' and 'Braderie'.  I've never been in the London shops - basically because I rarely get there and, if I did, I would expect it to be overpriced in the ways outlined above.  The 'White Rose' shops in Nottingham appear to be aimed at a slightly wider category of buyer and what they do they do pretty well.  Nice kids, too, and helpful.

 

#11 2021-10-23 07:45:35

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1272

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

yes that was/is me at the top. Weird to read your own posts back from a decade ago.  I'm a bit older now and hopefully less earnest too. 

I haven't been in a vintage shop, more or less at all for clothing since about 2015 - they just got silly at the time, tat for premium prices.  It wasn't worth the effort.... or being honest 'that smell' in a lot of the clothing. Ebay and ETSY seemed to come back from the doldrums with loads of really good quality and I don't have much need for further items anymore.  I decided to wait, try and buy new and find where I could support a small company and their workers whre I can (like everyone I'll see something I like though regardless).

I do like a root around a furniture/design vintage/antique shop for midcentury design, but that got the same too. So I ended up doing the same, wait, buy new but better. 

On both clothing and furniture/design - I'm about done.  It's a strange sensation to realize I don't really need much else for the rest of my life now.  I envisage many of us here are at that point too.  How much of the wardrobes gets worn in a year?   If/when I stop work - will I get rid of most of my sport jackets and blazers..... oh the thought of it.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-10-23 07:52:36)

 

#12 2021-10-23 08:15:58

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

I know exactly what you mean, and I'm simply hanging onto things I know no longer suit/fit because I can't bear to give them to, well, any local charity shop.  Back in 2013 The Lighthouse in Langley Mill suddenly found itself inundated with tweed jackets, loafers, desert boots and a good deal more.  As I think you said elsewhere, few if any of us older chaps on here will probably still be buying much in another ten years (when I'll be seventy two, if I last that long and don't end up behind bars).  Ebaying now, I realise that I'm interested in relatively little: the odd shirt, jumper, overcoat, pair of shoes.  But I do enjoy looking.

 

#13 2021-10-23 08:22:15

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1272

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

For some reason your post gave me a flashback!

Back in about 2015/2016 I went out in a grey wool levi style jacket and wide stripe blue/white BD.  I was told it is 'great to see you rocking the look from Porridge' and 'you look like a member of Madness' whatever that meant.  People liked the look I think. The prison analogy from Porridge was funny and kind of correct.  I had a no 3 haircut that day, black derby shoes.  I did look like Fletch on day release.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-10-24 03:55:02)

 

#14 2021-10-23 08:23:56

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Grin...

 

#15 2021-10-24 01:43:03

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

I adore the fact that 'vintage' is now simply anything the seller wishes/imagines it to be.

 

#16 2021-10-24 02:53:29

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Your post very much reflects my own ideas Unseen. The concept of having everything you’ll need in terms of clothing, furniture etc is quite satisfying but at the same time slightly unsettling. I turned 67 in July and it occurred to me the other day that the next car I buy might be the last one, in fact I’ll have a good go at keeping the one I’ve got going, unless they stop selling petrol or tax it off the road. With clothes I’ll freely admit to going through a spell where I became obsessed with buying and accumulating, I’d buy a new or vintage suit, or pair of shoes, or whatever, because I liked the look of the item and I didn’t have one like it, you soon pass a point where ‘need’ doesn’t come into it. I didn’t quite reach the stage of one fellow I spoke to who had had to rent a storage unit because he had run out of space at home, but I was heading in that direction! When I see a good size 16-3 Brooks Makers shirt on eBay I have to restrain myself from buying it by thinking about the fact that there are already several unused ones in the loft. With retirement coming over the hill I will have little need for formal clothes, although I do like to wear a jacket when I go out socially, if only so that I’ve got plenty of pockets to put stuff in. But the dozen or so suits I’ve acquired will need to be drastically reduced in number. So rationalising the clothing mountain will be a little project for when I give up work. I was reading an article about Tony Normand on the JS website and he commented that he wears a cord suit in the winter and seersucker ones in the summer, that sounds like quite a good way to go, bearing in mind that seersucker doesn’t only come in light colours. I don’t think I’ll ever stop looking at clothes, but from here on it it’ll be a matter of replacing things that do wear out, upgrading if I see something truly irresistible. A one in - one out policy has to be the way to go.

As to the main point of the thread; yes vintage shops are generally a bit crap and overpriced. From what little I’ve seen, the ones in the USA in aren’t much different although there is a slightly higher chance of coming across some holy grail item.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#17 2021-10-24 03:25:56

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

A storage unit is going it some but, when separated from my wife in 2012, I easily filled two wardrobes.  And that was after, previously, 'winding down'!  Now, though, I have to run a very tight budget, allowing myself around £200-300 per month.

 

#18 2021-10-24 09:55:36

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Very few people would describe that as a tight budget. For that amount you can get very good stuff. (Obviously someone into expensive designer brands would struggle. Or maybe someone who wears a suit for work each day and doesn't want to wear the same stuff each day. I've certainly seen plenty of people in education who wear the same suit 5 days a week but I wouldn't recommend it.)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#19 2021-10-25 00:43:35

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Just when I think I have all I need, clothes wise, Woof posts on Beige and the wash and wear beige suit and how good it looks on all ages. Then I realize I no longer own one and I have a gap in the waldrobe suits wise.

My 'problem' is that I live in two countries and I like to travel hand luggage only between the two. This mean I have two waldrobes full of clothes and too many shoes.
Having said that I don't think I could ever rival previous poster Oliver. His clothes buying used to really shock me.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#20 2021-10-25 02:27:33

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1272

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

This is the boom in in vintage that I mentioend my son is part of.  The kind of shop he really ikes: https://www.greatyarmouthmercury.co.uk/news/business/new-vintage-shop-market-gates-great-yarmouth-8434178

 

#21 2021-10-25 03:44:07

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 781

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

I've also decided on a one in  one out policy for shirts, haven't quite implemented it yet, I'm a year or so older than you Woof and fully retired last year, it coincided with lockdown but I found I was mostly dossing around in t-shirts & shorts , it does take a bit of discipline to avoid living in trackies & t's or sweats, so beware !

 

#22 2022-06-02 01:01:28

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

I'd only half-remembered this valuable thread.  It almost certainly answers quite a few questions and hats off to the poster who deplored the 'secondhand' to 'vintage' phenomenon. 
Ebay, in spite of its multiple pitfalls and annoyances, remains (even here in the UK) a halfway decent source of clothing and shoes.  Since the weekend I've bought a pair of Jarman smooths, a Pendleton jacket and a couple of shirts, one Saks, the other Paul Stuart.  Came to around £80 all told.

 

#23 2022-06-02 01:06:29

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Interesting that the original poster mentioned Nottingham.  Since the demise of most of the old shops I no longer bother.  Plus a 'vintage' shop has opened a mere two streets away from me.  Plenty of Levis, Dickies, collegiate sweat shirts, some nice (if not for me) Edwin (including a shirt), Carhartt, RL etc.  But the clientele are mostly, I think, your skater/hipster types.

 

#24 2022-06-02 02:22:14

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4187

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Like Woof I have everything I need ‘to see me out’.

I will put on a suit in a few weeks for a funeral but otherwise they don’t get much use.

I like to think my clothes are better than most friends and acquaintances anyway. I don’t think they give clothes much thought. I have enough coats, which are the only second hand items I would consider apart from jackets. I have enough jackets too.

Last edited by Kingston1an (2022-06-02 02:22:42)


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#25 2022-06-02 02:31:00

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4187

Re: The unsustainable price of vintage clothing

Great Yarmouth seems an unlikely place for a vintage clothes store. Money is tight there and I did not see any obvious interest in clothing.

We had a great time in Lacons brewery and back street pubs. Norwich is much more affluent though.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 
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