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#1 2006-12-06 04:50:06
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
The English Button-Down Collar...
Famously the English could never produce the roll. They would flatten the collar down to nothing.
Things are picking up though...
I saw a great one in Rhodes-Woods (I think that's the name) in Harrogate earlier on this year and these look much more like a BD should too:
http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/department.aspx?DepGrpCode=MEN&DepCode=MCBD&level1=Men&level2=CasualShirts&level3=Button%20Down%20Shirts
http://www.boden.co.uk/col.asp?segname=Men&styid=MA126&segid=4&gpname=Casual+Shirts&desname=Washed+Oxford+Shirt&gpid=33&gen=
S.M.L., etc., Sadly, & strictly marketed as a casual shirt (This is England after all) but not too bad for the money & OK quality too.
t.
Last edited by Terry Lean (2006-12-06 04:51:55)
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#2 2006-12-07 04:08:56
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6433
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
Last edited by Horace (2006-12-07 04:09:38)
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#3 2006-12-07 07:07:25
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
I don't think that the Brits ever really tried in the past. A BD was a nothing casual weekend shirt to them.
The roll must be magic somehow... So few can really get that Brooksy perfection.
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#5 2006-12-07 10:09:42
- Tony Ventresca
- Member
- Posts: 5132
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
I think achieving the "roll" is in large part a function of button placement.
My other button-down shirts have the same length collars as Brooks, however the buttons are placed awkwardly.
Which results in a poor roll.
#6 2006-12-07 11:08:09
- edmorel
- Member
- Posts: 194
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
I'll post a pic tonight of an Italian OCBD shirt that has a killer roll.
#7 2006-12-07 11:59:50
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#9 2006-12-07 15:31:12
- stylestudent
- Member
- From: michigan
- Posts: 205
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
Great shirt collar on the woman with the hat on the Life cover. Maybe it's a Brooks collar with points longer than what they make now. Plus she's pretty. Thanks for the photo.
#10 2006-12-07 15:32:56
- Vaclav
- Member
- Posts: 1330
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
I think BB should make a collar, that goes a higher level, because the other isnt so great for under a crewneck.
#11 2006-12-07 17:16:34
- Tony Ventresca
- Member
- Posts: 5132
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
To my eye, based purely on old photos, the Brooks collar of today does not appear to be the same as in the past, although it's still superior to nearly all of its competitors' products.
#13 2006-12-07 19:40:38
- stylestudent
- Member
- From: michigan
- Posts: 205
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
Ed,
Please tell us more about this shirt.
#14 2006-12-08 01:34:39
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
Nice roll, Ed. You're in the crew.
Brother V. - Good point - I pull mine up all the time.
'Par-Ex' of New Haven made my favourite high BD collar. Only got one left now, Blue OCBD. Again this was a nothing-name item with bags of Ivy charm from that shop in London I go on about so much. Bought in the mid-80's but it could have been new/old warehouse stock from the '70's as it a wonderfully generous collar. Anybody know the name?
Tony - Interesting. I wouldn't be surprised. There is a whole new thread in that.
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#15 2006-12-08 02:59:25
- Horace
- Member
- Posts: 6433
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
The Life magazine photo essay concerned the debut of the pink OCBD for women at Brooks.
Ed: I can't tell from your pic, but it would be interesting to compare the measurements of the collar to the collar band (both front and back). The band (in the front at least) looks a touch to high to me.
As for changes in Brooks shirt: on that specific question above, you might want to try Markus or Rojo (are they still posting at Andy's)? I measured some recently bought Brooks against some older ones from the 80's and I noticed that they were the same dimensions. Just my experience, who knows when all this stuff was actually made.
""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.
#20 2007-04-09 08:19:57
- Brownshoe
- Member
- Posts: 490
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
I've always coveted Rob Petrie's shirts on the Dick Van Dyke Show--long-collared buttondowns with beautiful roll. The collar points were also set somewhat widely apart, and it produced a great effect.
Acyually, all of Van Dyke's wardrobe on the show was really sharp. I think it was mostly from Botany 500--Those slim cut, undarted, plain-fronted, double-vented suits were terrific, as were the occasional sack sport coats.
He wore his pants nice and short, too. My nominee for one of the best dressed TV characters ever.
And his wife Laura was no slouch either.
#22 2007-04-09 10:35:43
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
#24 2007-04-09 12:59:09
- Terry Lean
- Member
- Posts: 2440
Re: The English Button-Down Collar...
Rhodes-Wood in Harrogate, Yorkshire, England.
http://www.rhodeswood.co.uk/welcome/welcomeindex.html
They come to the U.S. too from time to time...
Lovely clubby shop.
Nice people without any attitude who know & love clothes and who will talk cut & cloth with anybody who rolls in off the street.
For me they had Sebagos and and a wonderfully full-collared English take on the American OCBD.
For others their 3 piece bespoke Yorkshire Tweeds might be of interest.
... And in between elements of American Trad & English Trad they have a lot of forward looking takes on all the old staples - Suede shoes hold no fear for these Yorkshiremen!
Nice shop.
Nice people.
t.
Last edited by Terry Lean (2007-04-09 12:59:48)
"One of these mornings
You're going to rise up singing"
