Hey zb,
That fabric is probably a Kilgour exclusive they had made up for the store. Ive seen something similar on different occasions at B&J fabrics in NYC both in a lightweight tweed and a pure cashmere tweed mock up. I don't think it's as rare as you might think. I can't speak for the weight of this particular fabric but Kilgour is definitely a progressive firm with a dash of the past.
B & J Fabrics
525 7th Avenue (37-38)
(M-F 8-5:45, Sat 9-4:45)
New York, NY 10018
212.354.8150
you will find it is an old Holland and Sherry cloth
Kilgour use a lot of Holland and Sherry because of their ownership. Two of my suits from them are H&S cloth and they push you in that direction although they have other books as well. My last suit with them was from the Harrisons Mystique book.
Norton says it is an old H&S cloth so it may be that Kilgour have the remainder on the shelf.
Cloth in photo appears to have more texture and sharper color than wool donegal. Black donegal rare. Has the appearance of silk and linen "homespun" with donegal type nubs. Who you gonna believe, them or Howard?
???????
www.johnmolloy.com
www.mageedonegal.com
www.elliot-weave.co.uk
www.hollandandsherry.co.uk
In olden days Garrick Anderson, W55th Manhattan, used to make sport coats in retro '50s donegal
Thank you everyone for your help. I will follow up all of these leads and see what I get.
Speaking of finding fabrics:
anyone know if certain cottons made right around the time of WWII are still being made. They're incredibly heavy, and dense and tightly woven. You could mistake it for wool. My tailor had a pair of trousers he was altering that were made about this period of time, and he doesn't know if the fabric's still available. He said it has a "vertical weave" but I don't know what that means. Maybe the Capone kids'll know?
I once heard that 'Duck Head' made the GI's Khakis back in the day.
Don't know how true that is.
Certainly Duck Head is pretty dead now compared to what it was.
Even as late as '86 they still did good Duck.
But not any more.
etc.
t.
Speaking of surplus khakis: did the khakis really fit like the Bill M1 khakis do? I would've reckoned that men weren't as big in America then as they are now. I like schlumpy sometimes, but a lot of the gear today -- the Bill M1, the Mercer shirts, etc. sometimes seem a bit too much. Sure enough that the old oxfords fit like tents even back then, but too much schlump and not enought thump, you know?
Last edited by Horace (2007-04-15 22:40:37)
I am looking for some nice quality madras out of which to make some pants. Any help would be terrific.
The best Madras is coming out of either Dominican Republic or (get this...) Madras, India. I don't have relationships with weavers, mills, jobbers or agents in either location.
RE: duck cloth... no swatches in house, yet. Just an pair of trousers from the early 80s as a
sample to compare against when they do arrive.
<rant ON>
Frankly, I'm a little disappointed. The jobbers I've spoken to seem nice; but their deeds & actions are out-of-synch. I've been chasing several, following up once a week since about February. It's now been 10+ weeks that I've been attempting to source several projects, and still no shade cards! Such is the life of the lowly tailor!
<rant OFF>
Last edited by Howard (2007-04-16 13:56:23)