I have an Australian made Yves St Laurent double breasted navy blazer.  It is beautiful and picked it up for $15 at the local Salvation Army store where I used to live.  My wife saw it and I was there first thing next day. I lover her.

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-09-27 10:24:03)

I find it impossible to form an objective asssesment of his rig because the fool has photographed himself in the street accompanied by real, live women, instead of in the gents at work.

1st thing which struck me was that the jacket is cut very tight to the body compared to the trousers which are very full. the jacket is almost like an unlined italian sweater-jacket as its quite body hugging, although the cut has an english sillouette (nipped waist, flared skirt & strong shoulder). if your going to cut a jacket tight to the body an english sillouette doesnt work imo as it looks good with a more relaxed rather than a structured jacket. 

second thing is that the skirt is flared far too wide (assuming this hasnt been cause by his leaning on a bench behind him), its so wide infact that you can see his whole crotch area & this is something you dont want to display! im someone btw who likes a flared skirt, but even huntsman jackets i own dont have a flare anywhere near this wide & they are known for a flared skirt! the reason it seems to work on huntsmans cut is that they balance the flare on the lower half of the jacket with a wider than usual lapel so you almost get a clean concave line between the flaring of the skirt all the way up to the shoulder if you follow the lapel up. here grant has a slightly narrow than normal lapel in a modern style, which means you dont get this balance and it makes that flared skirt even more pronounced.

third thing is what is going on with the arm hole which is low and looks very large in size..with a bespoke english jacket the armhole should be smaller and higher. this italian style armhold looks incongruous with a longer line and flared skirt. it works well with canali type boxy jackets but this is a relaxed armhole on a structured english jacket?!

is it just me or does this look awful .. in an obviously well thought out way ?? if others disagree post and correct me .. welcome a discussion.

fruity.

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-09-30 04:49:51)

hi formby, everytime i mentioned an english sillouette i really meant one of the more typical strutured saville row sillouettes ..please forgive my tardiness.

point taken on the dege, i do see what you mean about military cut being cut close to the body, perhaps 'tight' wasnt the right word, if i analyse what i was trying to get at, the jackets simply smaller than it should be, while lacking padding which gives it that italian sweater jacket type look (loro piana - esque). 

i take the point on an amalgam of ideas coming together in saville row, however, you cant cut a long jacket and then put a low & wide armhole, or flare the skirt that wide while putting a very narrow lapel on a jacket. neither flatter the male form, instead it distorts, in doing so creating an incongruous look which is is just bizarre. the jacket to me looks like a fusion of different cuts, a frankenstein jacket if you like, in keeping with perhaps what grant @ norton has been trying to do.. ie move his brand to being one which is fashion forward. i have heard him talk about how saville row had gotten stuck in a time wharp and not moved on to create new style since the war etc, however, if you want to be a sexton-nutter type revolutionary on the row who moves and influences you need a hugely talented cutter with an eye like a c hammick or ed sexton who understands proportion, elegance and so on. by the looks of the jacket he hasnt got that .. so hes trying to create something and innovate without the skill to do so.

perhaps it is RTW tautz, which from what ive seen of the stuff is the biggest load of shit marked at ridiculous set prices, just terrible. if it is rtw it is even more criminal in a way as rtw gives you the ability to cut 1 pattern on an idealized form, so getting it that wrong cant be blamed on a) a customers foolish requests b) customers difficult shape c) a junior cutter.

looking at the above picture makes me wonder if A&F isnt a better way to go rather than trying to look elegant and well dressed when people like grant at norton, accepted as modern style gods) are peddling such rubbish ..

fruity.

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-09-30 08:03:38)