Okay, I have a few moments before my meds kick back in. Thanks to all of you for your good wishes. Cabin fever's beginning to...never mind, back to the topic.

I know that I have often crowed about my love of the legend of Caraceni(Rome, especially, perhaps to the irritation of some) because they don't 'build up' their chests(or so I hear). My chest is too big for that, besides I sweat easily and extra padding would result in me turning into just a puddle and a tilted fedora hat!

That said, I'm hearing to different things-many contradictory-about this tailor and that, that I'm beginning to feel like a decapitated ch...rooster. Perhaps if I state what I'm looking for, one of you kind gentlemen can point me in the right direction. I know I should have done this before, but whaddyagonnado?!

I just hope that I get this right. Here goes...


I.Jacket
1.Shoulders-Concave with 'rope'(I love learning new terms!), perhaps slightly extended so that the
   upper arm line is totally perpendicular to the floor. I hear that A&S does this. I liked POW's.
2.Chest-Clean with as little drape as possible.
3.Gorge-Midway between breast pocket and shoulder.
4.Lapels-Wide enough to cover 1/3-1/2 of the breast pocket on a peaked lapel jacket, with full bellies.
5.Pockets-Always slant, including the breast pocket. I like Caraceni's 'boat'.
6.Waist Supression-I've been advised by other forumites to keep it moderate.
7.Skirt-Long and flared with side vents. Ventless makes my butt feel 'strangled'. Nice visual, huh? I'
   not too keen on single vents, either, but I'll listen to suggestions, esp. about sportcoats.
8.Button Placement-At or above my belly button. My torso's neither long nor short, if that helps.

II.Trousers
1.Waistband-Wider than average. I like wide belts.
2.Legs-Full w/ a slight taper or perhaps straight legged. I've not yet settled on that one.
3.Pockets-Slash/on-seam. I figured I'd keep it as clean-looking as possible. I've no opinion on back  pockets. Never use them.
4.Cuffs-I think 1 3/4" is the norm. Is it? I guess it depends upon height.
5.Single pleat.

I hope that I haven't mixed too many different looks, but it's the one I've always loved to wear. My former, local tailor made it for me all the time with spectacular results, but he died and his sons (doctors) closed his shop. If I have a clue as to how to operate a digital camera, much less upload pics, I'd have placed them online for educated comments and critiques, but I suffer from Electronic Disfunction. I know...I'm an embarrassment to my generation. Maybe I'll upload some sketches to give a better idea of what I mean.  The suits, that is.

Anyway, any and all assistance you kind gents can provide will be most welcome. Also, let me apologize in advance just in case anyone's offended by my question or the way I've presented it.

I've read everything I can find on silhouettes, etc. I've read manton's essay like, 1,000 times, and it looks like Rome may have what I'm looking for, but you gents would perhaps know better than I.

I'm not really into the rumpled look nor the stiff (Huntsman-esque) look. I used to have a beautiful cream Abboud linen (I think) suit. Round collar and no padding whatsoever. It molded to me (post-alt)
lika long-lost friend. I miss that suit.

Last edited by BCL (2007-04-25 12:28:54)