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#1 2007-04-22 10:44:22

kenperes
Member
Posts: 584

Visible Inlays - A pet peeve

I know that one of the great things about bespoke is the extra fabric left in the clothing for future alterations.  However, nothing drives me batty like seeing a visible line from an inlay on the shoulder seam or under the collar.

Dearest forum:  is this another one of those things to get over, or do they drive you batso as well?

 

#2 2007-04-22 11:05:34

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve

Are your suits light-colored and light-weight? I find these factors, especially when combined, can potentially show inlays.  Mine are darker/heavier and so I can only spot a subtle hint of an inlay at the back center seam, although you really have to look hard.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#3 2007-04-22 11:07:57

kenperes
Member
Posts: 584

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve

The worst for me is on lightweight, light colored flannel.  Under the collar you end up with the collar canvas, another piece of canvas, a piece of fluffy light flannel inlay and the flannel for the body of the suit.  That is the only time that it really bugs me.  Perhaps I am not enough of a cogniscento to enjoy it.  wink.

 

#4 2007-04-22 11:34:39

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#5 2007-04-22 11:40:12

kenperes
Member
Posts: 584

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve

Cool Marc.  Thanks for the responses.  Perfection being unattainable and all, I will just have to live with a beautifully fitting jacket with one nick that bugs sometimes.  I think I can do that.

 

#6 2007-04-22 11:48:37

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#7 2007-04-22 12:58:46

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve

Interesting topic.

In the case of my jackets, even though I can easily feel the inlays by running the shoulder and back seams between my fingers (along the back seam the inlays measure 2 cm on each side) I can't get to see the inlays no matter how hard I try to spot them. But, none of my jackets is made of cloth below 10 oz. and I don't have yet any cotton jackets. The inlays are more likely to show through cotton, speaking from my experience with lightweight cotton trousers.

I think it comes down to how the tailor finishes the inlay edges. Some tailors like to leave the selvedge along the back seam. I would assume the selvedge is more likely to show through than a properly finished self fabric edge. With trousers, some makers do a turn-back along the inlays of the "ass seam" --not my preference as it tends to emphasize the inlays and can become slightly uncomfortable in critical areas. 

I will do some research on this topic and will write any findings here!

 

#8 2007-04-22 13:28:52

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve

Last edited by iammatt (2007-04-22 13:29:16)

 

#9 2007-04-22 13:49:36

Howard
Member
From: Drimtaidhvrickhilliohattan
Posts: 236

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve

 

#10 2007-04-22 19:36:13

jsprowls9
Member
From: Denver, CO
Posts: 250

Re: Visible Inlays - A pet peeve

 

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