I know that one of the great things about bespoke is the extra fabric left in the clothing for future alterations. However, nothing drives me batty like seeing a visible line from an inlay on the shoulder seam or under the collar.
Dearest forum: is this another one of those things to get over, or do they drive you batso as well?
Are your suits light-colored and light-weight? I find these factors, especially when combined, can potentially show inlays. Mine are darker/heavier and so I can only spot a subtle hint of an inlay at the back center seam, although you really have to look hard.
The worst for me is on lightweight, light colored flannel. Under the collar you end up with the collar canvas, another piece of canvas, a piece of fluffy light flannel inlay and the flannel for the body of the suit. That is the only time that it really bugs me. Perhaps I am not enough of a cogniscento to enjoy it. .
Cool Marc. Thanks for the responses. Perfection being unattainable and all, I will just have to live with a beautifully fitting jacket with one nick that bugs sometimes. I think I can do that.
Interesting topic.
In the case of my jackets, even though I can easily feel the inlays by running the shoulder and back seams between my fingers (along the back seam the inlays measure 2 cm on each side) I can't get to see the inlays no matter how hard I try to spot them. But, none of my jackets is made of cloth below 10 oz. and I don't have yet any cotton jackets. The inlays are more likely to show through cotton, speaking from my experience with lightweight cotton trousers.
I think it comes down to how the tailor finishes the inlay edges. Some tailors like to leave the selvedge along the back seam. I would assume the selvedge is more likely to show through than a properly finished self fabric edge. With trousers, some makers do a turn-back along the inlays of the "ass seam" --not my preference as it tends to emphasize the inlays and can become slightly uncomfortable in critical areas.
I will do some research on this topic and will write any findings here!
Last edited by iammatt (2007-04-22 13:29:16)