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#1 2012-10-24 21:44:00

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Gay Talese

"...many journalists are poorly dressed. When they die, somebody will put a nice suit on them and place them in a casket. If they dress up for their death, why not dress up when alive?"

http://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/style/articles/2011-06/01/gq-personal-style-gay-talese-author-books-frank-sinatra-suits-fashion

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702304870304577488761693288318.html

Just for Kicks
Writer Gay Talese's shoe obsession started early—in the dapper Deep South—and continues up North in stride.

WHEN MANHATTAN journalist, author and man-about-town Gay Talese begins his day around 7 a.m., he dresses "like I'm going to the lunch I'm not going to."

Invariably, that means he's impeccably turned out, from his signature fedoras to his bespoke Oxford shoes.

For the author of "Thy Neighbor's Wife" and writer of many other books and fabled Esquire articles ("Frank Sinatra Has a Cold"), shoes have helped make him the man he is today: dignified, meticulous, dapper.

Mr. Talese isn't sure how many pairs he owns. "I have about 80 in all, but I've never really counted them," said the author from the parlor of the circa-1872, Upper East Side brownstone he lives in with his wife of 53 years, the publisher and editor Nan Talese.

"I have about 40 pairs here in the house. And we have a house in Roxbury, Conn., where there's about the same," said Mr. Talese, who was wearing on this day what he called "an afternoon outfit," consisting of a dark-green three-piece suit made by Cristiani of Paris; a button-down from Addison on Madison by Brian Hall (he has 60 such shirts); a red Sulka tie; a pocket square from Stefano Ricci; and a Cartier bracelet watch.


One of his favorite Oxford styles
.His tan fedora—which begs a "PRESS" card in its band—is made, like all his hats, by Bruno Lacorazza, of Puerto Fino Hats in North Miami.

For footwear, the 80-year-old often leans toward the hues of woods and spirits. On this day, to match his suit, he wore a pair of lace-up olive Oxfords from Domenico Vacca on Madison Avenue. "A very nice shoe," he said from his writing room, a converted wine cellar he calls "the Bunker," where he's currently at work on "A Nonfiction Marriage," a history of his life with Ms. Talese.

But the shoes he's most famous for are created by Roman Vaingauz of Vincent & Edgar, a Lexington Avenue boot maker. The handmade affairs are exact replicas of a pair Mr. Talese purchased in 1960 at a dearly departed Manhattan haberdashery called Lefcourt. "What distinguishes them is this suede trimming around the leather, and these tiny raised metal hooks that hold the laces in place," he said. "The original Lefcourts wore out after a year, "which is when I discovered Vincent & Edgar."

Nearly all of Mr. Talese's shoes abide a similar design: two-toned with six eyelet rows and a narrow toe. "I rotate them so much that some have lasted for 20 years," he said.

“'I don't own a pair of sneakers,' said Mr. Talese. 'And I don't have bluejeans—neither blend in with my day.'


Looking smart and wearing nice shoes is in Mr. Talese's blood. The Ocean City, N.J., native's mother was a buyer for a Brooklyn department store. And he's the son and the grandson of "prideful" Italian tailors.

Mr. Talese—whose first name is short for Gaetano—has worn tailored clothing since he was a grade-schooler. It was in Rome, in 1955, however, that he first saw a Brioni suit (he now owns a dozen of them), while visiting the city as a lieutenant stationed in Frankfurt. It was a defining moment in his sartorial evolution: "I'd never seen a Brioni until I strolled past the store window and liked what I saw." In New York in the mid-'50s, he became a regular customer (as he has with Zegna and an Upper East Side tailoring shop called L&S).


François Dischinger for The Wall Street Journal

A framed snap of Mr. Talese and friend Tom Wolfe at a lunch at the Four Seasons in New York
.The power of the shoe, however, preceded his custom suits. Mr. Talese's first loves were the white buckskins that students wore at the University of Alabama, where he started as a freshman in 1949. Since then, his affinity for white bucks has faded (he owns none), but distinctive footwear has occupied and overtaken closet spaces throughout his home.

The trim-and-fit writer doesn't revel in shoes simply to showboat around, he said, explaining how he changes pairs four times a day, with each set playing a functional role in his routine. ("I don't own a pair of sneakers. I don't have bluejeans—neither blend in with my day.")

When he's writing at home, he said, "I wear a fine pair of Artioli slip-ons. They're very soft leather, very comfortable, and yet not so casual that I could not remain in them when dressed in one of my Cristiani suits, or a Brioni."

For his daily workout at a nearby gym, he wears "soft, low-cut white leather lace-up Barbagrigia sports shoes, which vaguely resemble moccasins."

nlarge Image

CloseFrançois Dischinger for The Wall Street Journal

A collection of his made-to-measure Vincent & Edgar shoes
.Exhibiting a dozen or so of his favorites lined up in shoe trees, Mr. Talese mused that he enjoys stylishly strutting through each living hour as if it were his last. "People dress up for funerals," he said. "Why not dress up to celebrate that you're alive?

The former New York Times reporter has long said that he came from an era in which newsmen "dressed for the story."

And then there are all those common threads that writing and shoemaking share. Mr. Talese often bonds the two—their process and craftsmanship—in conversation.

"I hesitate to tell you the cost, or the time Roman Vaingauz takes to make me a pair. You could write a novel faster than he makes shoes," he explained.

"It's that pride in doing something well. It's the craftsmanship. And how, like a seamless story, it all stands up to the test of time."

Last edited by Marc Grayson (2012-10-24 22:34:40)


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#2 2012-10-24 22:25:39

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Gay Talese

The bloke is wearing a very nice suit in that picture and the way he wears his pocketsquare shows he's a real pro at doing the impression just right. He looks good. l see so many people with pocketsquares these days but not many do them well, especially the young guys with their well studied crisp folds. The man also looks comfortable with himself, more men should carry themselves like that. lt's good to see that proper blokes are still around, but they are a dying breed.

 

#3 2012-10-24 22:42:59

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Gay Talese

http://www.gilt.com/giltmanual/2011/04/puff-piece/


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#4 2012-10-24 22:58:06

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Gay Talese

That's exactly how l do most of my folds and it works like a treat. Just the right amount sticking out of the pocket for most occasions, but if you are meeting with folks who are less well dressed you sink the pocketsquare so it is only showing half that amount and then forget about it for the rest of the day. Pocketsquares were almost dead 10 years ago, but now many folks (even footballers) wear them on t.v, l think that is because fashion coaches have read the forums and put the style onto their clients. lt was once very stuffy not long ago, but now it's the done thing.

Great articles and pictures Marc, thanks for posting them.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2012-10-24 23:04:55)

 

#5 2012-10-24 23:16:30

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Gay Talese

http://www.theparisreview.org/interviews/5925/the-art-of-nonfiction-no-2-gay-talese

In order to get to Gay Talese’s study you have to leave his Upper East Side town house and go down the elegantly curling stairs, into another entrance, with another set of keys, and down another flight of steps. The bunker, as he calls it, is a long, narrow room that is bigger than many Manhattan apartments, with a bathroom, shower, Giant vibrator, several couches, two desks, a table and chairs. One does not, however, lose the feeling of being underground. One also has the unmistakable sense of being inside his mind.

Each time we meet, in the early afternoon after he has come up from the bunker, Talese is always beautifully dressed. He is so beautifully dressed that strangers will talk to him in the street, that waiters and hostesses in restaurants will want to do things for him, like find a special place to put his hat. Talese’s father was a tailor, his mother ran a successful dress shop, and he says his first idea of how to be special was through clothing. His suits are made by a tailor in Paris, whose father trained his father. When Talese tells me that he sometimes goes to the gym in the afternoon I am tempted for a moment to ask what he wears, but I don’t want to blur or complicate the image of him—bespoke suit, vest, pocket square, colored shirt with a white collar, cuff links—that I have in my head.

INTERVIEWER

How does your writing day begin?

GAY TALESE

Usually I wake up in bed with my wife. I don’t want to have breakfast with anyone. So I go from the third floor, which is our bedroom, to the fourth floor, where I keep my clothes. I get dressed as if I’m going to an office. I wear a tie.

INTERVIEWER

Cuff links?

TALESE

Yes. I dress as if I’m going to an office in midtown or on Wall Street or at a law firm, even though what I am really doing is going downstairs to my bunker. In the bunker there’s a little refrigerator, and I have orange juice and muffins and coffee. Then I change my clothes.

INTERVIEWER

Again?

TALESE

That’s right. I have an ascot and sweaters. I have a scarf.

Last edited by Marc Grayson (2012-10-24 23:17:41)


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#6 2012-10-25 01:32:11

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Gay Talese

Hey Marc, are you still getting suits and shoes made, who makes them these days?

l'd love to ask you a few questions about your shoes but l wouldn't dare. wink

l still love the story you told about wearing a three piece bespoke suit to the local dog run lol. That was an awesome story and i'll never forget it mate. Hope you post some more, you always told good stories and had the best experiences with clothing.

Do you reckon l could just sneak one or two questions in about your shoes? Carn mate, l wouldn't mind asking a couple of quick questions about them.

Regards old man: The Shooman.

 

#7 2012-10-25 14:21:23

Drum Thunder !!!
Son of Odin
From: the Time that Land Forgot.
Posts: 3768

Re: Gay Talese

Tell me about it, it's sore at first, but after the first few weeks you do get used to it...wait...I've said too much haven't I?


Arrives unpressed and minimally packaged.

 

#8 2012-10-25 15:42:55

captainpreppy
Member
Posts: 1536

Re: Gay Talese

My brother-in-law is always involved in the L.A. Times's annual Festival of Books, which means that my wife and I get to hang out in the VIP room. One year I had dressed down somewhat because the Ol' Philistine didn't wan't me looking too conspicuous. Nonetheless, of all the authors and sundry celebs there, only two were noticeably better turned out than I. One of them was Gay Talese. He was wearing a meticulously tailored three-piece suit in medium-light gray. The other well dressed chap was wearing a cream-colored linen suit with a French blue shirt. My wife said, "I'm sure he's gay." A few minutes later a woman and child approached the "gay man." From the interaction, it was quite evident that they were the "gay man's" wife and child! Turns out the "gay man" was my wife's brother's boss. But Gay Talese was surely the best-dressed man among the tens of thousands on the UCLA campus that day. What an inspirational figure!

 

#9 2012-10-25 20:11:58

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Gay Talese

http://bigthink.com/ideas/628


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#10 2012-10-25 22:00:34

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Gay Talese

 

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