Film Noir Buff Style Forum / When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Bishop of Briggs · 2012-11-20 15:17:05

JohnL · 2012-11-20 15:30:16

The_Shooman · 2012-11-20 17:37:13

g- · 2012-11-20 21:24:39

ivanoff · 2012-11-20 22:24:13

What do you know about dressing like a man? Giant peaked lapels, is that what makes you a man?

For me, someone who is comfortable in his own skin is far more manly than some twit who obsesses over his waist suppression and the like

Film Noir Buff · 2012-11-21 06:07:00

Bishop of Briggs · 2012-11-21 09:10:53

xenon1 · 2012-11-21 09:41:44

Oldfruit1 · 2012-11-21 10:05:57

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-11-21 10:06:54)

Oldfruit1 · 2012-11-21 10:12:56

also xenon, also from personal experience, i wouldnt go 100% cashmere just for the hell of it (i have done this before with a sports jacket and regretted it) as it is a delicate wool by nature, so go for a blend of high grade cashmere and conventional wool, anything between 10-30% wool blended with the cashmere will give it more stregnth, make it easier to tailor well, and make it more hardy to the elements (also you avoid moths etc which is real danger esp with v high quality cashmere .. they sniff it out! perhaps the only things which can quickly discriminate between cashmeres are moths lol) it will also lower price of course. again go with loro piana i would say ..

dont let a salesman tell you theyve never had complaints with 100% cashmere as this is impossible, good cashmere is a beautiful type of wool, but it is delicate, easily damaged by the elements and doesnt stand up to wear and tear well ..

fruity.

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-11-21 10:15:52)

xenon1 · 2012-11-21 11:03:53

Thanks for the info fruity!

Fortunately/unfortunately I have already gotten many topcoats in 100% cashmere but your warning about the jacketing hasn't fallen on deef ears! It certainly does feel more fragile! It felt so wonderful though but I will reconsider this choice. TBH I kind of suspected just on the price that topcoats were using lower grades. But what grades meant was vague to me.

It's funny because I never drew a parrallel between cashmere and wool even though I should have. It makes sense that just like merino wool there would be wildly different fineness and fiber length of cashmere. I just thought that there were a few grades in terms of softness but that all had relatively similar diameter and that the weave made the most difference. I realize now that that doesn't make sense or was incomplete.

In terms of jacketing, blends really are a good choice as you mention and something I usually stick to. I particularly like wool-cashmere-silk blends. Actually Dormeuil has thier Dorsilk (wool/silk blend) which is quite sturdy but luxurious looking and has a nice hand.

As for Loro Piana, I am a huge fan of their suitings so I am going to have a look at their jacketings when I get a chance

Oldfruit1 · 2012-11-21 12:23:51

Yes, cashmere is a type of wool, so everything that applies to wool applies to cashmere. The only problem is I think the wool industry has more clear grades etc which make it easier to navigate whereas the cashmere industry I think has relied on the misconception that all cashmere is a luxury product and homogeneous. In theory it doesn't make a difference but I would try and go with a cashmere from Mongolia and definitely steer away from Chinese production as I think there is a lot of dodgy production and blending going on in that area. I believe loro piana production is from Mongolia btw and I think they are obsessive about quality.

If you are looking for a weave for a cashmere sports jacket look at loro piana 'cheviot' weave as it makes for a fantastic soft but strong fabric.

JohnL · 2012-11-21 16:27:07

Bishop of Briggs · 2012-11-22 03:33:18

The_Shooman · 2012-11-22 23:05:40

Bishop of Briggs · 2012-11-23 03:35:46

fxh · 2012-11-23 04:28:21

I notice hes showing no linen (cuff) and his pocket placement relative to lower buttons is very different from his old man's.

Bishop of Briggs · 2012-11-23 04:37:50

The_Shooman · 2012-11-23 05:43:50

Film Noir Buff · 2012-11-23 07:13:17

Oldfruit1 · 2012-11-23 07:41:03

both william and harry both dress badly, dont look like they are interested in clothing and style. im not saying this is or isnt a good thing .. just doesnt seem they care that much. guess it explains why he's wearing a pair of brogues with a dinner jacket ?! still not as bad as harry who wears suede mocassins with a suit on formal occassions and so on .. terrible!

Film Noir Buff · 2012-11-23 11:36:34

Ali Kebab · 2012-11-23 12:26:22

I think William and harry plus that acting BBC director general are the new breed of the Englishman. They just look ill at ease when wearing a suit.

Film Noir Buff · 2012-11-23 12:31:23

Bishop of Briggs · 2012-11-25 04:31:38

#3251 2012-11-20 15:17:05

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3252 2012-11-20 15:30:16

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3253 2012-11-20 17:37:13

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3254 2012-11-20 21:24:39

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3255 2012-11-20 22:24:13

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3256 2012-11-21 06:07:00

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3257 2012-11-21 09:10:53

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3258 2012-11-21 09:41:44

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3259 2012-11-21 10:05:57

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3260 2012-11-21 10:12:56

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3261 2012-11-21 11:03:53

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3262 2012-11-21 12:23:51

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3263 2012-11-21 16:27:07

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3264 2012-11-22 03:33:18

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3265 2012-11-22 23:05:40

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3266 2012-11-23 03:35:46

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3267 2012-11-23 04:28:21

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3268 2012-11-23 04:37:50

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3269 2012-11-23 05:43:50

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3270 2012-11-23 07:13:17

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3271 2012-11-23 07:41:03

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3272 2012-11-23 11:36:34

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3273 2012-11-23 12:26:22

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3274 2012-11-23 12:31:23

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

#3275 2012-11-25 04:31:38

Re: When bespoke wishes and fabric dreams go wrong

Board footer