I am looking at various fabrics to make up a casual blue blazer, but rather that in a serge/hopsack which is smarter wanted to go for a more casual rustic feel, therefore looking for something with some weight to it, a nice nap and a bit of a halo effect (aka fuzz) would be nice .. but its going to be worn sitting outside coffee shops while smoking a cigerette (too old to quit now ) and having a coffee .. so it needs to be fairly resilient as well. i was thinking perhaps a rough cashmere blend or perhaps flannel? any suggestions from the cloth gurus would be welcome ..
oldfruit
btw whats going on with this yunko character posting all this spam in the board?
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-12-26 07:22:48)
That Harrisons flannel will never wear out.
^ My thoughts exactly!
^ thanks guys .. got an appointment with my tailor in the new year so i'll pick up on these ideas .. formby you mentioned asking my tailor to cut the jacket 'easy' .. does this mean less form fitting than usual? his usual style is a very aggressive english military cut .. not sure how this would translate into a flannel although works v nicely in tweed ..
fruity
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-12-26 11:18:58)
I would not choose flannel for a blazer as I often wear grey flannel trousers with my blazer. If you are looking for something "rustic" that can be worn in town, how about this Huntsman tweed - http://www.h-huntsman.com/huntsman-tweeds/5 - or something similar?
hi briggs, i also normally wear a lot of grey flannels (both light & charcoal) .. i didnt think it would be a faux paux to wear them with a blue flannel blazer though as the colours are distinct ..similar to how wearing a worsted blue blazer with worsted grey trousers would be quite normal
i am also considering having a tweed jacket made up aswell but maybe in something a but more low key than the huntsman tweeds .. in a more conventional colour as well (probably a greeny ground colour). not looking for something v rustic as i plan to really wear around central london, meeting friends for a drink, going out for lunch & that sort of thing..
oldfruit
fruity
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-12-26 11:59:22)
what do you guys think about plain old worsted wool used for a sports jacket .. but something with both pattern and a bit of weight ~14 oz to make sure it doesnt fall into a 'suit jacket' look? boring perhaps .. but worsted wool is sharp, elegant, resilient ..
was looking at harrisons universal 74140 or harrisons Lesser 303 29796 .. if i went down this route i may go for an even more flamboyent cut .. fish mouth lapel aggressive silouette to balance out the muted pattern and smooth nature of the cloth .. am i going to make an expensive mistake going down this path?
fruity
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-12-27 18:12:22)
Found a new term you might like - the tailor referred to it as "releasing the jacket around the middle /waist area"
I like it - release - sounds much better than "let it out a bit to cope with your belly".
Release the jacket - nicely puts the blame back on the jacket.
hmm..agreed it needs to have life .. but here is my dilemma ..
tweed = a corse country cloth and perhaps out of context in an urban setting unless i go for a huntsman style brash pattern (which then is in a world of its own as far as rules go so nothing else really matters as far as country / city etc .. this route has pitfalls in matching with a tie and shirt etc as well). most tweeds are in dull horrible dark greeny/browny/grey colours which is why they fell out of favour in the mainstream in the firstplace i suspect apart from the odd economics professor although the iGent has picked it up since for this very reason .. old fashioned/idea of hand looms whirring in the hebrides/normal people dont wear it so feeling of being different.
cashmere = loses shape / pilling + would feel precious about it as i am wearing it and be weary of drunken fools who are liable to slip and spill their drink all over my jacket in a bar or nightclub (alternatively a woman throwing her glass of red wine over my front ..which is more like;ly to happen .. this has happened to me twice now .. )
angora & wool blend = only lighter weight available & wears warm .. possible shedding and smelling of old rabbit .. also would feel precious about it incase of the above happening.
worsted wool = boring but safe in terms of weave
flannel = possibly delicate? soft but stronger than cashmere or angora / wool blend.
fruity
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-12-29 08:21:52)
thanks for that formby .. leaning back toward a tweed but its a barrier i need to get over .. i have never worn tweed in my life (always associated it with english toffs in the country or wierdo lecturers at university .. ) & stuck to very sharp tailoring so im confronting my own prejudices as i make these choices .. the agony of bespoke tailoring huh!
fruity
Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2012-12-29 11:44:34)
It's possible that we observe too many 'twerps in tweed' on the various igent forums but don't let that colour your judgement. A three piece tweed suit may well be over the top but a tweed jacket is an essential item.