Distressing news in the Evening Standard - http://www.standard.co.uk/news/uk/downton-tailor-sold-to-hedge-fund-star-and-his-couture-partner-8444461.html
"The Savile Row tailors which made the white tie outfits for Hugh Bonneville’s Lord Grantham character in Downton Abbey has been sold to a hedge fund tycoon and his designer partner.
"Huntsman, which also counted Edward VII, Sir Winston Churchill, Sir Lawrence Olivier and Humphrey Bogart among its clients, is being taken over by Belgian-born financier Pierre Lagrange and Bond Street couture star Roubi L’Roubi...
"Mr L’Roubi, a British-born designer of Sudanese origin, has a background mainly in womenswear. His commissions include creating vestments for clergy at St Paul’s Cathedral...
Mr L’Roubi, who recently worked with country pursuits outfitter Holland & Holland, says he will use his womenswear experience to expand Huntsman’s collections. His Mayfair couture business is expected to be merged with the Huntsman label.
Mr Lagrange is worth an estimated £120 million. He co-founded the GLG hedge fund, which was criticised for short-selling shares in Bradford & Bingley in 2008. He became a director of Mr L’Roubi’s company Asked For Designs in 2011.
He and his wife Catherine gave each other “divorce gifts” of Ferraris when he left her and their three children in 2010 before starting a relationship with Mr L’Roubi."
Why is this distressing?
Yes but is the Huntsman cut truly so hard to find?
This kind of thing is inevitable, but I can sympathize with Bishop--if I were a customer, I'd be wondering as well.
The cut is not so hard to find with two former head cutters (Richard Anderson and Terry Haste) working on and close to the Row. The main issue is the future direction of one the Row's main houses. As Formby says, there is a sense of deja vu.
Crompton's blog says a bit more - http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2013/01/huntsman-sold-to-roubi-lroubi.html
"Roubi will be the new creative director and has already said he wants to give Huntsman more of a leaning towards women's tailoring, and look to refocus the ready-to-wear and made-to-measure services as well."
So it might be a little theatrical to say the news is distressing...rather it might be an inconvenience to Bishop, but I doubt even that. He will probably receive just the same service. It might be distressing if Bishop thinks the new ownership devalues the status and prestige of the brand--I only skimmed the news about it, it appears a gay hedge fund guy and his Sundanese womenswear lover have taken over? That might erode the some of that British prestige
From what I've been told, it is not so hard to copy a cut of a suit but it is difficult to replicate the "feel" of it..I am more inclined to think most of the "feel" of a suit is imagined, but then it might be a result of my cynicism.
Last edited by Eckharti (2013-01-09 15:45:57)
I was under the impression that, after previous changes of ownership, Huntsman was enjoying a period of relative stability. Several head and senior cutters have left the firm in recent years. It's previous owners bought and invested in Budd the shirtmakers, a natural sister firm, last year. Now Huntsman has another set of new owners (with no experience of developing a bespoke tailoring business) who reportedly plan to focus on womenswear. There is therefore a new uncertainty over the future direction of the firm, its business and "brand".
Yes, I understand where you are coming from...I'd be very annoyed as well. But I am not so invested in brand names but more after the look.
Depending on their pricing they might be successful with the RTW stuff they produce
Last edited by Eckharti (2013-01-09 15:58:53)
Why is sexuality irrelevant?...Prestige and status of historic English bespoke firm has a lot to do with provenance and heterosexuality.
I don't know how skilled the tailors are, since I do not care much for tailoring as a craft, but they are, on average, quite accurate in reproducing styles. Perhaps a hawk eye would be able to point out differences here and there, but they look similar enough to make the trip to London and Italy pointless for them. I agree the sober examples are failures.
The main reason RTW has eaten bespoke is not just time--it is money and it is mass production..And it will continue to devour bespoke because in a lot of tasks bespoke is actually sloppier than RTW.
I agree with you on that formby, my devouring comment is short sighted...Yes, a major resurgence.
A wise one, this formby.
You mistake my intentions...those indeed are my words.
But truly, what is the difference between a renaissance and resurgence? Are you implying that Brunelleschi or the Statue of David have taken to the Savile Row?
I thought they meant similar things, you will have to point out the distinctions--but tripping you up was not my intention. You pointed out my mistake is all, and I thought it nice to thank you
Does everyone share the same thesaurus around here??? Someone said some similar junk to me just a little while ago--equally insipid
Im not sure that the Huntsman cut,with single breasted one button like to me.
Huntsman make a real great double breasted,but that one button...