Any help for my frind in Philly would be much appreciated:
Jimmy glad to hear you are ok and doing well.
Can you recommend any good MTM or bespoke tailors in Philadelphia or put me on to a thread on Noir Buff or... or .. ? What do you think of the prices some charge? I think there are some I found in NYC who are under 1000$ for a basic suit. I know it is a long Ivy discussion!! once I start a question it often turns out that way.
I was going to use Raja-Tailors but they don't have plans to come to Phila this year, I emailed another one Gary Tailors, another Hong Kong outfit: I asked if they did floating canvas, to kind of sound out what they know and do, they haven't got back yet! Raja, if you get the right one not one of the imitators seem good; Gary Tailors though seem to do a kind of sack suit with roll to second....!
Best wishes for the coming year
Shalom Jim to you and yours.
Thanks !
MTM- English-American Tailors in Westminster Maryland. They are a very large suit manufacturing plant, all computerized, laser cutting, etc. I toured the factory floor. They are the back end for Tom James, an MTM firm where salesmen come to your office. That part of it is not worth it, as the salespeople will tell you they are tailors. They are not. They have no idea.
If you go to the actual factory, in the back there is a little showroom visible from the parking lot. Ask for George.
They take your measurements, and its a very complete set of measurements. Then they feed it into the computer, which does the cutting.
There are various patterns to choose from, but to be honest, I change so many things after discussing with George that the pattern is but a starting point. As with other tailors, take a jacket and pants that you already like, its a good starting point for them to understand what you mean.
As a Plastic Surgeon I can tell you the most difficult thing for me is divining what the patient wants from what they are telling me. Bring also pictures of suits you like. That is useful only to demolish your expectations because like with my patients, what we like usually needs a different body (other than your present body) to work well. But it is an important lesson to learn otherwise you will be disappointed.
I would strongly suggest consulting with a psychiatrist about those voices in your head.
Also, taking suiting advice from a plastic surgeon is like buying a wedding dress at a pawn shop.
Last edited by Eckharti (2013-01-09 15:25:47)
Well done Jim thanks for posting this; I must say the Ivy Crowd in the UK are quite special, you really all are, the best of British I might say.
Last edited by Chévere (2013-01-09 19:24:54)
It would be unbecoming of me to post pictures of my offices. Trust that they are very unlike yours-- I am not in the attract a buyer business.
Paying no attention to the trolling on this thread - A further question from Tudor is for opinions on the various Hong Kong travelling tailors. Any opinions based on experience out there ?
Thanks.
The tailoring request is not for me. As I made clear, it is for a friend.
I'm always doing favours for mates. I'm like that. If you look at the posts above you will see that the friend then came along to say thank you to me too. He's a busy guy and just dropped me a line to see if I could help out. It's all in the post which starts this thread. He is not a plastic surgeon.
Dan - Got any tailoring tips to share ?
You might be able to help my mate out too.
By the way I totally fail to get the point or indeed the meaning of this metaphor "Also, taking suiting advice from a plastic surgeon is like buying a wedding dress at a pawn shop."? How is it supposed to work? Chevere makes a good point about how far one should trust one's own judgement. Anyway the advice was useful and well appreciated.
Anyway as for the Hong Kong company, Garytailors; if they do ever respond to my simple question... I will post their reply here, I suspect it will be entertaining or revealing.
Ivy Jim's own view seems to be that one should buy ready made and get them tailored. That sounds cogent to me; both he and I are lucky in that we fit pretty well off the rack though! I did have some bad experience with London alteration tailors though, until John Simons put me in touch with Stitchcraft off Oxford Street... to quote Jim "It is a minefield out there". I would welcome comments on the Hong Kong Tailors though.
Indeed what's with London Tailoring these days? I did ask John Simons but he remained calm but Gnomic on the matter.
Chevere, I was talking about the Hong Kong 'tailors' and MTM outfit,s not your tailoring suggestion by the way; I see my comment could have been taken as referring to English American Tailors. It is a couple of hours from me and on the way to Frederick where my wife and I go sometimes so looks good from that point of view too. I am not looking for an Ivy suit as such either, that looks like too much trouble and I am more inclined to take Ivy Jim's advice there. I do remember now that John at Stitchcraft London did say to me that he considered alterations and bespoke tailoring to be two different skills; he should know though I can't see why that should be? Any my prefered way with an Ivy suit would be to get one then have it altered.
Thanks again Chevere, this will be my starting point; I have a boat load of questions and doubts about bespoke by the way: from a Modernist perspective if I might be so pretentious to say! GaryTailors did get back to me and were honest; they do fused canvas, frankly I liked their honesty. I might just be lucky in that OTP stuff fits me pretty well and usually only needs adjustment of small degrees.
Thanks again guys, had one of two suggestions from outside this forum too. 1818 Chestnut Street for one, any thoughts Chevere? Nobody seems very interested in bespoke as such, still trying to figure out if there is anything really so special about it; especially if one likes to wear one's clothes on the looser side like I do... However I have some feed back which just suggests I forget about suits altogether.
My tip: O'Connell's. They have some very tasty natural shoulder suits, and (obviously) you can try them on, eliminating the risk in bespoke.
Last edited by Yuca (2013-02-06 11:45:19)
What are your views on bespoke Yuca? I am nearly as much interested in informed takes on this as I am in the damn suit now!!! I take it you have reservations about bespoke? I think many of us do but it is hard to articulate them somehow?
Depends what you want and who you are getting it from. In terms of classic natural shoulder: if the tailor isn't already familiar with it, then there is a risk. Every tailor promises the earth, but getting a specific style right is a lot to ask. If you find someone who has made the style you want before, the risk is much less, of course.