I think they lost the two main people who knew what they were doing, if they hadn't of copied a good shirt, I'm not sure they would've produced good shirt and how did they know that was a good shirt? Jim told them. And by what they're saying they don't want to be Ivy anyway, they are a nostalgically influenced label. But no real guiding light, brands need visionaries leading them, not accountants, they lost their vision when Jim, and this pattern cutter lady left. THey've done well to go to the right producers of these clothes, but again how did they know? I'm guessing from Jim's influence.
And what a terrifying thought that it is that Jim is the biggest assest to a clothing company! That's like leaving air traffic control to Oliver Reed!
Last edited by My Grandfather's Pants (2013-01-12 11:07:11)
Stedman. Let's look at the evidence.
The OCBD shirts, Slim fit, Ralph Lauren type of collar, inelegant pocket flap, nice green colour.
The 1950's shirts, Better collar, very nice low second button, No flap (no pocket!) but still rather slim.
It appears they are listening on the shirts. I would imagine they could produce a decent shirt in the future... but at what price? The redesigned shirts are already £150. Another redesign will cost money again which I think the buyers will feel. Henry will be doing a non slim fit with a better collar than both shirts put together for £120. For the Ivy man, Stedman IS dead in the water. If it wasn't JS killing him it is surely now Fitzgeralds who will be.
The chinos. They are black, have frog mouth pockets copied from a pair of cords, are straight legged slim fits with a tight thigh (They look more like early 70's levis 517 bootcut than anything) and a low rise billed as 'regular rise'.... which I presume they nicked from old Brooks Brothers ads without knowing what it actually meant. They are a write off. No good to anyone here who is into Ivy. Am I wrong? Would anyone wear them? Let's face it, they are shite.
Personally I will be waiting for Fitzgeralds. From a picture roughly taken on a camera phone I know how good these shirts are going to be. All of this chat about Stedman will be academic when Henrys shirts come online.
Henry, re models why not contact Guy from John Simons. He wears their clobber well and seems to be around the size you are looking at. Or get this.... do it yourself?
The ultimate vanity trip!
But seriously why not?
The cost of the redesigned shirts are indeed, ghastly. But at what price American made imported back into Europe?
I agree with the chinos, but I reckon they may yet prove their best seller.
It is not only about a quality product, it's about distribution, demand and cash flow. But in saying that, a cottage size industry, is immune from the vagaries of big business and targets of extreme growth that inevitably mean the management and direction is changed every 5 years in search of a quick fix for senior management to retire with an inflated pension on a given day and date according to the share price.
Ha ha, definitely won't be modelling myself. Guy would be perfect, but it may be a conflict in interests for obvious reasons. Re Steadman, I genuinely hope they do well. They're not doing Ivy but they aren't claiming to now.
WoW ~ I can't wait. I hope to be one of the first to get a green OBCB.
Yes, I can understand if he wouldn't be comfortable modelling for both brands. Still though, there must be other young guys out there into Ivy who could do the job.
Good luck on the hunt.
I can imagine JS being very supportive of and encoraging to FC. John already stocks some HS shirts as a kindness to Steddy who is an investor in John's new shop. You'd think there'd be a conflict of interest there, but John has always been a helpful sort.
Comparing HS to JS there's no competition really so why would John be bothered?
I think there's room for everyone all doing their own things within Ivy. As HS have moved to a sometimes-slightly-influenced-by-Ivy position the coast is clear for a new proper Ivy brand to sit alongside JS. John has always sold other people's shirts alongside his own (Albany & Georfrey Scott were both his labels). He was happy enough to sell Troy & Sero, Brooks & Press, so why not FC too?
There'll be a deal to be done, of course.
I think it would give John great pleasure to see that his work over more than half a century now keeping Ivy alive and relevant still inspired new people to feel the same way. It's all ripples in a pond. Just the fact that we have an Ivy 'scene' at all in the UK is entirely down to John. It could all have died with Lou Austin. Nobody else was doing anything in the genre. Cecil Gee soon moved on from being slightly Ivy influenced to the next fashion.
I think, as one Ivy shirt designer to another, JS will be really interested in the source material 12 Bar used and the process he went through to produce his shirts. It's a conversation he could never have with HS because it was Becky and I who did all of that and we were gone before the shirts were out.
I know that it gave John great pleasure when his customers Graham & John produced their two Ivy books. That a customer should now be producing shirts is bound to tickle him too.
Swoooon...
That well defined, bell-shape roll when buttoned is something I've only seen on an old sears-roebuck poly/cotton shirt I have. It's something I absolutely love so thank-Gawd for these shirts. I can't praise enough how good that one in ILSfT looks.
Good luck with it all, Henry; I'll surely be snapping one up
It's going to be another week at least untill I have some decent picture to show you all. The website should be up and running by the end of Febuary. Thanks Don.
very much awaiting here as well. very tempted to go green but not sure whether it will suit my blonde-ish hair and pale finnish complexion.. well well..
good things going on, h. i'll definitely give yours a try.
tom has done a great job logo-wise. good stuff.
Cheers Heikki,
I was warned off making the green ones by the manufacturer. They said green doesn't sell very well, seems they were wrong though judging by the comments on this thread.
We should put together a list of advance orders maybe ?
A Green 15/33 for me please.
Thanks -
Jim that's reserved for you. Everyone else will have to just wait till the website is up, I've enough on my plate lol.
Thank you & I can imagine !
I just thought that as a good indication of sales to come it might be useful to guage what a fairly typical cross section of the European Ivy wearing (ie incredibly diverse) population were interested in most.
Blue will always be a winner. Green is great for Ivy, if not with the wider menswear market. Stripes & checks always go down well...
The plan if these go well is to get my own fabrics made. I want to do some large checks as they seem to be hard to come by these days.
what the hell, i must go green too. i vote it, i smoke it so one shirt doesn't harm does it.
a 16 1/2 / 34 for me, ta very much!