A few questions if you don’t mind.


Why do some shoes show from new or quickly develop the fault you illustrate but others don’t? Is it down to the right or wrong setting of the sewing machine or a random effect?


Did you consider returning the shoes (before the very nice shine job) as faulty?


Do you have any idea as to how the makers view this type of fault – or do they even consider it a fault?


As you’ve kept the shoes are you taking any specific measures to reduce the effect of the sole not being ‘sealed’?


Regards

Stuart

When l see the Cleverley bespoke fellows this year l am going to really grill them on this issue. They might try to pull the wool over my eyes, that's it's not going to work because l have done my research and l know the problems associated with machine constructions and gemmed shoes, so l am really going to put these guys over the barrel and get answers from them. We've been conned long enough and it's about time we called them out for the rot.

All shoemaking processes are based on common sense, that why shoe construction is so easy to understand. That's why we don't need people to teach us about this stuff, we can just observe and use our common sense like our forefathers did.

The hand carved feather and welt is the greatest shoe invention ever, IT IS FLAWLESS! Couldn't be improved upon if you tried. lt's perfect in every single way possible. Brilliant!!! You wouldn't think a carved out groove and a strip of leather would be too significant, BUT IT IS! The simplicity and brilliance of the concept still blows my mind.

Shooey, this is a great thread and I agree 100 percent with everything you say.

In terms of the sole seperating from the welt, I always thought it was a mixture of poor thread tension adjustment as well as cement failure. You see alot of those stitched soles on machine made shoes are probably relying more onthe cement thatwas usedto temporarily holdthe outer sole on prior to being stitched.

As for the inseam thread showing I think you are on the right track. One of the issues is also how far in the holdfast wast placed and subsequently how wide the feather is (the rabbited edge outwards of the holdfast). Basically even the hand maker has to make sure he she cuts afeather that is as wide as the thickness of the inner lining, middle stiffener and outer leather. Assume 1.2 mm for each of the 3 layers and you are already at 3.6 mm from the edge and then you need to add in order to hide and protect. I think a quarter inch is ideal in most areas but we will see on myfirst pair.

Shooey,
Thanks for the enlightening replies.

My own shoes are a mixture of C&J, G&G & EG plus the odd pair of Trickers – obviously not in the bespoke league as far as price or handwork is concerned but they still cost more than enough for me to be concerned about any possible faults in the making of them plus of course the whole idea (for me) of buying what I consider to be very decent shoes is the longevity of them.

I’m very pleased with the quality of them all (bearing in mind their differing price bands) & I find it hard to imagine any shoe fitting me better than my G&G’s in particular but I’d like to be a more informed buyer when it comes to spotting where the standard of manurfacture has slipped – if only to let me walk away & look at another pair.

Regards
Stuart