Many of them have terrific tie offerings. I  enjoy Poole's ties myself.

Last edited by Ziegfield (2007-05-12 08:51:41)

Aren’t the best ties partially a function of their use and effect?

I understand that quality is intrinsic, that aesthetic appeal is often empirical but is that the only purpose of a tie? I would think it better to figure out what your circle or purpose is; especially if you are starting out. What good is the best made tie if you are a spread collar wearer and the tie makes a tiny knot? I mean unless the tiny knot is your thing, there may be a proportion problem here

Let’s consider this. The OP is asking, which tailor sells the best ties? Isn’t the answer, the one you buy your suits from? Hey may serve as an additional signaler to other customers or ones who may frequent the shop and not bought.

Fast forward to NYC stores. Let’s enter Bergdorf's or Saks. Now let's head over to the Charvet departments. I have heard and do not disagree with the claims that Charvet in NYC does not display their most English or conservative patterns and generally has bolder, wilder more colorful offerings. OK, maybe that's NYC taste, maybe it's nouveau, maybe it's age trying to bottle youth but what's more important is that the men you may want to impress may:

1. Buy these ties and might admire them on you.
2. Not buy them but see them on frequent trips to the store and might recognize them on you.

Rather than pretend that status is not an element of getting dressed, let us instead consider maximizing it's effect. I think in our current society the tastes have become so varied that the only thing we can all agree on are the simplest patterns which seems to ring true when we check the fashion history books but really men were more likely to wear what everyone else who shopped at the same stores was wearing as a sign they indeed shopped in the same places and maybe had the same tastes.

Now, I am not saying abandon your tastes. I am not suggesting you pick a tie that grates you but do consider it as a factor when you buy ties. That sometimes having what you want isnt as completely important as triggering a desired response.


I am saying this because it occurs to me recently that a lot of men are trying too hard to be unique. I also think that buying clothes in a vacuum can lead and as I see has led to some very odd choices.

I also personally have balked at picking some items that people I don’t have a lot of sartorial respect for have gone to pick. I ask myself, do I want to be part that circle? If that sounds rough, well it should. There is a duality at work with men’s clothes, one wants to choose those things that strike a resonant chord with their club and at the same time find items or means to trump everyone else.

But this idea that one doesn’t care what anyone else thinks, well it’s bravely spoken could be both true and untrue at the same time. For example, if you go to Mimmo’s shop in Saks and buy a couple of ties with suits. What’s important isn’t that the ties appeal to you; so much as they signal that you shop there to the other heavy hitters who also shop there. Although many of the men that buy there literally don’t have to care what other people think, they either somewhat do or it’s a byproduct of their buying habits. What I am trying to communicate is that there aren’t absolutes here, “Not caring” is actually more like a 60% part of the pie chart vs. caring a whole lot. But it isn’t not caring at all. You don’t see these men getting lime green suits, so at a certain level they do care. It’s alright to care; I don’t think it’s a personal failing. But there should be a balance. Individuality, circles of exclusion and commercialism are just part of our everyday lives and if you want to be that much apart from it then perhaps you are dressing for yourself in the equivalence of a hermit’s cave.

When Twin six gets a suit a couple of shirts and ties from Ginza tailors, that’s good. If he picked them then he is putting his own look together from the Ginza vision. I think a theme is fine. At least it should be considered. The  Can you wear shirts and ties from other makers? Absolutely. But you are diluting the message. In certain situation that’s just fine but know that you are doing it.


majority of men do not want to be 100% unique Tic-Toc men. Let's not make them wear everything the hardest or rarest. It might be good for people who are really into clothing and really need to be different from everyone else but let's not drive the vast majority of men crazy that they need to be sourcing vintage wools for suits or hard to get shirt fabric because it's bizarre.

Take me, I care a lot less and I am very aggressive with my choices. But that’s a plurality feeling not a religious fervor. I do care to make a positive impression. Part of that impression is admiration for my boldness but I never want anyone to think I am a crackpot. I am an establishment creature wearing establishment clothes; clothes which suit my build and personality. I have a lot of clothes and my style has become so much a part of me that I make interactive new choices subliminally. And yet, even I change, I try new things. I am learning a lot from the essays I am writing and if they help you also, that’s great. The ultimate therapy is to write your own thoughts down on men’s style, your reasons and the results you want or aspire to.

Which means I would never suggest you copy me. Oh, you are free to but I think deep down, though I am flattered, I don’t want people to do as I say. I just want to open people’s minds up to thinking about style. You get ideas from seeing other people’s ideas and hearing their thoughts and reasons for selecting things to wear.

We can get bogged down with this item is ugly and that item is ugly. But it isn’t necessarily just the intrinsic beauty, it’s also the use. Show me an item and I can tell you where I think it would be appropriate. I can’t understand when I see people say, oh these ties are ugly, and those ties are nice. It can’t be a purely independent decision. It has to be what you do, where you are etc... It’s a titration; keep all elements in mind even if you really want to be different. Because you can be different not only by selecting the most unique items possible but merely by how you wear your clothes and keep them up. In fact, just the way you tie your tie can be a huge style difference from your surrounding environment. That isn’t a bad exercise either. If everyone had to wear the same suit, shirt and tie, how would you make your style both admirable and unique?