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#1 2013-03-09 04:10:00

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Vintage Fabrics...


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#2 2013-03-09 06:36:23

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

Beware, cloth does dry out.

I'm sorry, why should I care what Nick Foulkes thinks? Is he in and out of the clothing trade?

Personally, to the extent that I prefer a vintage look, I would prefer newer fabrics woven in older designs. A lot of the leftover stuff is left over for a reason; mostly bad. I understand that there is a vogue for authentic vintage cloths (I actually just had a vintage H. Lesser's checked cloth in mohair/wool blend made into a suit which might be 40 years old!) and heavier weights but the left over stuff still needs to be examined on a case by case basis.

 

#3 2013-03-09 08:12:34

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

Last edited by formby (2013-03-09 11:17:10)


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#4 2013-03-09 20:41:08

Chévere
Member
From: Baltimore
Posts: 856

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

It is still cold where I live.
I do miss that feeling of heaviness in a suit in this season, as well as the look of the thick wrinkles that formed at the knees and elbows. And you could wear them forever without them looking like a frazzled mess.
I'm not saying one is better than the other, but it reminds me of house construction where newer and lighter materials have "all the advantages" of the older materials without some of the "disadvantages". Except that mass and solidity do have a certain kind of appeal.


Cógelo suave, pero cógelo.

 

#5 2013-03-10 03:55:36

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

 

#6 2013-03-10 09:15:07

xenon1
Member
Posts: 234

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

 

#7 2013-03-10 09:40:15

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

Quite right on metallurgy, but even dead-ends and mistakes have been made here, but I shan't bore you.


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#8 2013-03-10 09:48:27

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

Misinformation is probably the biggest gift provided by the Internet. Like Formby's article about clothes serving as a symbol of self invention, most people get annoyed with people who are better or more knowledgeable then they are and buy into the "We are all the same" fallacy. With regard to clothes, the result is the mass trammeling of everything refined with the byline, rednecks opinions are just as good as anyone else's.

Less extreme but perhaps more disgusting it seems that the lower middle class has moved into tailored clothing bringing with them all their attentive anxxxieties. For instance, the heavy weight obsession for suit cloths has willed the return of the laughable 14+ ounce suit cloth. Apparently, a large number of nobodies can combine to reassure each other that they are all both unique and elite. The concept is that suits should be investments in longevity and that discomfort is an acceptable trade off for clothes that last forever. The truth is, once one of these people gets it made up it will become useless based on their own poor choice of details.

Another online fantasy is that the cloths from the merchants and custom made jackets are more delicate than RTW garments. It's all about anxiety but even worse, mass anxiety uniting and asserting its supremacy. It's like the world has been inherited by a world of frightened mice. The cashmere and super 150 and above fabrics I have from Harrisons wear like some sort of high tensile steel. Sometimes i wish they WOULD wear out! The H Lesser cloth suits I have are not uncomfortable, but rather get softer and more buttery with age.

I suppose it makes you unpopular when you discuss class in our classless world and condemn that vast majority of clothes aficionados to an eternity of poor taste choices but it seems to be the case.

 

#9 2013-03-10 13:45:41

xenon1
Member
Posts: 234

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

 

#10 2013-03-10 20:36:01

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

nick foulkes has fugly taste in cloth .. look at these ...

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=nick+foulkes&hl=en&rlz=1T4ADRA_enGB375GB379&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=m0E9UcqvO6WP7Aaqs4HABQ&ved=0CDUQsAQ&biw=1486&bih=680#imgrc=GLjKllKQOjC7jM%3A%3BMMUgQX5I2iq15M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww3.pictures.zimbio.com%252Fgi%252FNick%252BFoulkes%252BGQ%252BCocktail%252BReception%252BCelebrating%252B7Rr4G5Upp8gl.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.zimbio.com%252Fpictures%252FAOly8Pz8wFY%252FGQ%252BCocktail%252BReception%252BCelebrating%252BBASELWORLD%252F7Rr4G5Upp8g%252FNick%252BFoulkes%3B396%3B594


http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=nick+foulkes&hl=en&rlz=1T4ADRA_enGB375GB379&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=m0E9UcqvO6WP7Aaqs4HABQ&ved=0CDUQsAQ&biw=1486&bih=680#imgrc=CMeZEoEPnf6MJM%3A%3B7V_PsSX6sw61GM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fassets3.howtospendit.ft-static.com%252Fimages%252F79%252Fbf%252Fe2%252F79bfe29e-da2d-4748-be1b-0afdc65a63e8_three_eighty.jpeg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fhowtospendit.ft.com%252Farticles%252F3300-swellboy-on-the-sheepskin-flying-jacket%3B380%3B380


I think the reason the igent wants a heavy cloth is to do with longevity .. most are not uber wealthy and have to justify a purchase by years wear from a piece of clothing .. thats why they like good year welted cordovan shoes/ boots, tweed jackets and so on. if you buy a 18oz tweed ... it will probably outlive you so at £2500 (2500/80 years) it will come to ~30 quid a year! downside is you look ridonkulous to everyone apart from iGents .. or people who dress like that for a reason errrm perhaps gamekeepers in the hebrides .. plonkers.

 

#11 2013-03-10 20:42:17

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

just for the record i think nick foulkes is actually quite an interesting writer .. just he seems to choose fugly patterns from looking at photos of him, oh well its all in the eye of the beholder i guess!

i usually go for a 8/9 oz cloth in the spring summer and 12/13oz cloth in the winter .. i wear a calf legnth overcoat which is about 18-20oz outside and remove indoors ... seems to work for london weather quite well.

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-03-10 20:46:49)

 

#12 2013-03-10 22:26:46

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

 

#13 2013-03-11 03:07:23

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Vintage Fabrics...


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#14 2013-03-11 09:58:12

xenon1
Member
Posts: 234

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

 

#15 2013-03-11 09:59:20

xenon1
Member
Posts: 234

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

 

#16 2013-03-11 12:19:42

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Vintage Fabrics...


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#17 2013-03-11 13:48:09

Reckless Reggie
Member
Posts: 513

Re: Vintage Fabrics...


I'm Reckless Reggie of the Regent Palace,
I'm in love with every gal;
I flirt with Maudie and I flirt with Alice,
I'm a real life Regent's pal.

 

#18 2013-03-11 16:48:07

Bishop of Briggs
Member
Posts: 3948

Re: Vintage Fabrics...


Contrary to lies of FNB and Woofboxer, I (and most of the other "Buff Bastards") have been banned from posting on this forum. There are only a few posters left so don't waste your time on here. This forum is dead and nobody cares.

 

#19 2013-03-12 16:05:55

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

that cloth was from the previous set of huntsman house cloth .. huntsman made both comps & foulkes a suit in that cloth .. i think it was the worst seller out of that set.

the house cloths are the best thing about huntsman these days ... that and peter smith who's a real old school gent, hopefully he can do well under the new owners.

foulkes wears either rubanacci or terry haste (now running KHL), although most of his suits look like they were cut by terry haste in huntsman's classic style. its quite distinctive, very long and very lean. huntsman dont cut a jacket like this themselves anymore, they cut a middle of the road jacket in a very similar style to poole, just with a 1 button and perhaps with a little more legnth in the skirt. now as ive said its probably wise from a business perspective as a middle of the road poole style cut is a safer bet in that it looks good on most men & is fairly bog standard so theres not much that somebody would take offense with when they put on a suit cut like this .. its just it isnt a huntsman! you might as well go to poole and ask for a 1 button & say you like a slightly longer jacket & youd get a something very similar. now with haste's classic huntsman cut you either love it or hate it .. and i think a lot of people would probably think what the hell is that on looking at it .. it looks like something from a bygone age now .. here's a good picture to demonstrate:

http://www.zimbio.com/pictures/AOly8Pz8wFY/GQ+Cocktail+Reception+Celebrating+BASELWORLD/7Rr4G5Upp8g/Nick+Foulkes

actually this is cut slightly more softly that others which ive seen him in, personally i like it but its impossible to wear this type of jacket in an 'informal' way these days, without a tie (to cover up the longer V of empty shirt), formal shoes and high trouser it looks incongruent (trust me ive tried to put over jeans and it looks ridiculous). they say it was cut by hammick as a cross between a dinner jacket & hunting jacket .. and it does have a dinner jacket feel about it which is actually strange to wear even in a business context, personally i dont give a toss about such things due to the nature of my work & am happy stick two fingers up at middle management wherever i work but i can see the issue which many would have with this sort of style.

fruity

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-03-12 16:16:40)

 

#20 2013-03-13 16:47:18

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

Ive seen a new collection of cloths from Harrisons called their 'Anniversary Tweeds' ..anyone seen these or thinking about having something made from them? Apparantly a recreation of old harrisons cloths .. tapping into this buzz about vintage cloths perhaps?

 

#21 2013-03-13 17:09:23

formby
Member
From: Wiseacre
Posts: 8359

Re: Vintage Fabrics...


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#22 2013-03-13 17:31:02

Bishop of Briggs
Member
Posts: 3948

Re: Vintage Fabrics...


Contrary to lies of FNB and Woofboxer, I (and most of the other "Buff Bastards") have been banned from posting on this forum. There are only a few posters left so don't waste your time on here. This forum is dead and nobody cares.

 

#23 2013-03-13 18:41:45

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

well they claim to be able to accomodate any request .. at their prices you would think so too!

however the head cutter, patrick murphy, is from davies/dege & skinner and I believe he created the new huntsman cut, now ive got no idea on davies house style but if you look at dege's house cut on the following link (1st jacket is a good example) you see the similarity with the new huntsman cut especially in the shoulders and chest, where it differs is that the new huntsman cut is longer than the dege jacket & has a 1 button.

http://www.dege-skinner.co.uk/bespoke-styles/

i would imagine that its quite difficult for a cutter who is accomplished in their own right to successfully change their aesthetic after many years, it seems that murphy brought his aesthetic to huntsman (rather like in cricket your bowler sticks to throwing the balls he's good at throwing ..cant tell a guy who likes to throw inswingers to suddenly bowl yorkers as theyll get hit for 6!)

not sure haste will take a lot of business though .. i mean the old huntsman cut is the anthithesis of what is fashionable (im taking decades not seasons smile ) if you look at nick foulkes jackets you can see how long and lean the cut is ... in some shots he looks like a beanpole as there is so much legnth vs breadth. do you like this look briggs .. anyone else have a view?

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-03-13 18:43:17)

 

#24 2013-03-14 04:30:55

Sal
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 524

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

I quite like Foulkes, although his outfits are ridiculous.  I guess all the hackwork he turns out (history of Dunhill, history of Rubinacci, etc.) pays some bills while he gets on with the proper history books he also writes and keeps him in cigars so on.

 

#25 2013-03-14 05:13:20

Oldfruit1
Member
Posts: 531

Re: Vintage Fabrics...

sal you assume that he needs a job to pay for this, he may be independently wealthy? .. in my observation the best way to come into money is not to work for it ...far to long and tiresome a journey ..  inheritance, marriage & investment is the good old fashioned way & has the benifit of affording you the time to pursue more interesting activities (could be wiritng books on obscure history in foulkes' case).

fruity

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-03-14 05:18:11)

 

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