The Shoe Snob on GEMMING (FAILURE)
http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/2013/04/mythbuster-gemming-is-bad.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+TheShoeSnob+%28The+Shoe+Snob%29
Gentlemen's Gazette on Crocket and Jones factory visit
On asking James Fox about gemming failure received the following response,
One topic that has been mentioned from time to time in various on-line blogs is that of ‘gemming’ or ‘ribbing failure’, whereby the sole and uppers of the shoe supposedly part company catastrophically with the insole. It is not something I have ever come across in real life and when we are in the welting department I decide to raise the issue with James, who is rather dismissive of the idea:
‘We’ve never had a rib fail. We’ve been making shoes for 130 years and there is a reason why we are still making shoes in this way.’
He points out that in a Goodyear welted shoe, the insole is effectively encased by the chainstitch of the welt and the lockstitch of the upper. Although C&J have a fairly active repairs department looking after shoes that are returned for resoling (some of whose owners appear to treat their shoes with a degree of abuse and neglect I find surprising), they have never had a pair of shoes returned that have had rib failure.
http://www.gentlemansgazette.com/crockett-jones-english-leather-shoes/?utm_source=N0114_Crockett&Jones_&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=N0114_Crockett&Jones_&inf_contact_key=b77000b7aec84a7810ce3ad814c8756e398f2ec81ca56e0041f1f70a541f1954
Also, check out the beautiful 1930s shoes in their factory museum .. gorgeous, check out that fine stich around the welt. They should introduce these as part of the range IMO, what do you reckon shooey?