I would like some of his opinions on the personal.
Hi Ho everbody...
This is steedappeal and I await your questions with great anticipation....
Welcome! I get a warm feeling all over each time I stop to look at J Press's store window. Don't ever change!
Marc
Thanks Grayson. It's nice to know that our windows cause a warm flush every now and then. Here's to complete sartorial stagnation!
Last edited by steedappeal (2006-04-26 20:40:11)
I'm disappointed to find that you're not named Steedapple after all.
What is your stylistic specialty?
Good to have you Steed. Great article too. I love the Press suit you're wearing.
Couple of questions and a comment:
1. Is it true that Press is going darted and peaked in some of it's offerings?
2. What's the status on Canadian-make coats? I bought a Harris tweed not too long ago. A bit
too much padding or wadding in the shoulders, as you and some others commented on. Any plans
to sort that out?
3. Your new shirts are great. The OCBD with flap makes me want to cry. It's so old school in cut and fabric.
Press and one or two other places are worth buying from at full price just to keep them in business.
I love a quality traditional shop and its windows It shows how there is still a bastion of civility somehow in a corporate shark culture.
Last edited by Incroyable (2006-04-26 23:47:11)
Hello SteedAppeal, my apology for thinking about an apple.
My question as I leave for the Poconos, is about tweed for spring.
Do you think it;s not correct, to wear it on a cool evening, mixed with the whale pants?
Last edited by Vaclav (2006-04-27 23:10:48)
Last edited by Twin Six (2006-04-27 23:45:33)
Borace: your aren't a relative of old Horace are you?
Hello Shooman,
It's not the first time someone's thought that, but I'm not a relative at all. I quite enjoy some of his posts though.
Last edited by borace (2006-04-28 00:37:35)
Thanks for all of your enthusiastic support.
To Horace:
The Canadian firm is paying special attention to de-squaring the shoulders. Their current batch is significantly more in line with what you may be looking for.
The only darted garment we have this Spring/Summer season is the peak lapel seersucker jacket. There may be plans to add some other darted wares for the next Fall/Winter season.
Remember that Press always had about 15 to 20 % of 2 button, darted clothing up until the mid 90's when we went purist in merchandising revolt against our Brooks breathren to the East.
To Twin Six:
I would think that midwhale or pinwhale cord-du-roi might work but I'd be against cotton UNLESS it was a very heavy drill-twill weight.
Hello Steadapeal,
First may I say how much I enjoyed the Trad Star article, if I may, I'd like to ask a couple of questions.
My eye was drawn to the very nice 3-piece suit you are wearing in your photo, are there any 3-piece suits available from J. Press?
Are all J. Press jackets fully lined these days?
I've seen some similar 3-piece items at J. Simons in London, but I think these were european-made as they were darted, but had most of the usual ivy league detailing and half lining.
Thank you,
Chris
Another Anglo-Ivy enthusiast here, bored to tears by AAAC.
Just making myself known for the moment.
More to come about Ivy-Style life in London as time allows.
From Russell Street to Madison Avenue via Cambridge, Mass.
Nothing Trad, nothing Preppy, nothing Fogey.
Just London boy Ivy-Style. Cool, clean, hard.
Have suss, will travel.
M.A.
London Ivy-Style notes:
"J. Simons" is the only shop in England.
"J. Press" is currently the most important shop in the U.S.
Brooks is good for classic OCBDs, but now that they have opened in London they have lost their value to us. They are still a good shirt, but now that any fool can take the tube up into the city and buy one they have lost the value they used to when they were an import-only item.
"The Look" is entirely driven by the Modern Jazz of the '50s & '60s.
Wearers of the look are all "Modernists" to one degree or another.
The Ivy League look has never been an upper class look in England - the first people to wear the look post WWII were working class Jazz fans.
Mercer's shirts & Russell loafers are currently new names of interest over here.
Mainly for shoes we are looking for old stock U.S. made Wejuns & Sebagos right now. Shoes should look "American" to us. Alden is quality but looks wrong - too much a part of the European shoemaking tradition. Weejuns & Sebagos stand out more in London.
Suits & jackets are all natural shoulder undarted, shirts are OCBDs mainly with a few broadcloth/poplin items. The not-too-wide black or very dark blue knit tie is the most prized.
It's an old fashioned "cool" look - not much smiling or talking goes on when in public. Behind closed doors the piss is taken out of everything and eveyone.
Apart from the clothes it has NOTHING in common with the American Trad.
More to come if you want more -
The history of American clothes in London.
More on what it all "means".
Stuff like that.
Oh - And Chris H. is the expert on all this, not me.
M.A.
Last edited by Chris_H (2006-04-30 08:56:14)