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#1 2007-06-05 13:22:30

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

With a backdrop here in New York of some of the most appallingly dressed men, wearing the ubiquitous uniform of Incontinence pants/Surgical appliance/Reebok/New Balance sneakers, jeans, and a worn t-shirt or dress shirt untucked, I am left bereft of any enthusiasm and desire to dress even remotely properly, let alone stylishly.  I mean, why even bother when such a substandard mode of dress has, quite evidently, become standard?  I think I need to move to Italy in order to restore my enjoyment of actually putting some thought into what I'm wearing.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#2 2007-06-05 13:34:25

Brownshoe
Member
Posts: 490

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

I know what you mean, but there are many well-dressed gents to be found on Madison Avenue (between 44th and 50th or so) and up and down Park Avenue.

Sometimes, on really pleasant days, I walk around these areas on my lunch hour to stretch my legs and be surrounded by fellow conscientious dressers.  Yes, I am weird, but it can be encouraging and I get ideas for combinations or approaches I would never have come up with on my own. 

This is dangerous on Madison, because I am inevitably inspired by someone's ensemble and am compelled to pick up a little something at Brooks, Press, or Paul Stuart.

 

#3 2007-06-05 13:56:05

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

Do you mean to say you've joined those ranks of the unwashed?


Jukebox Babe

 

#4 2007-06-05 14:14:55

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#5 2007-06-05 16:53:52

rsmeyer
Member
From: Chevy Chase, MD
Posts: 751

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

Marc: Having just returned from NYC, it certainly did not look like the NYC of my youth as far as male attire. However, a good deal of the old panache can still be found at private clubs, the 21 Club bar, and other venues, and there are still a # of guys who know how. Just ordered me a double breasted number at Winston Tailors (nee' Chipp), and spent a delightful 1/2 hour chatting with Paul Winston. Keep The faith!!!!  Richard

 

#6 2007-06-05 17:40:07

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#7 2007-06-06 04:07:44

The Style Council
Member
From: Nr London, England
Posts: 100

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

It's not just NYC, iammatt asked 'Why do the english dress so horribly' on another fora after observing poor dress sense while spending a day walking around our great city. Dressing well is becoming a dying art, rapidly. sad      It appears to me that people just don't care anymore.

Last edited by The Style Council (2007-06-06 04:08:32)

 

#8 2007-06-06 08:47:20

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13195

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

l'm dissapointed in Australian dress standards too. Most of the best dressed people are in designer clothes because they don't know any better. Very rarely l see a Brioni, and even more rarely do l see something which resembles bespoke. The shoes are nearly always appalling; even on the men with the better suits. l'm in a state of constant disgust with peoples dress standards and l actually feel sorry for the people in bad footwear. lt always puts colour in my cheeks when l see a good suit or a good pair of shoes; it allows me to see the person in a much more positive light.

Don't give up the faith Marc. There are always going to be well dressed people who will always appreciate what you wear yourself; few and far between, but they will still be there.

l actually had a young guy come up to me (monday) and asked me where he could get good shoes (l couldn't believe it). lmmediately l got fire in my belly and my eyes dilated and l talked to him for 20 minutes all about shoes and alittle bit about suits. He was wide eyed and fasinated with what l had to say. He didn't balk when l suggested he part with $800 for a pair of C&J handgrade or spend $1,000 on C&J shell cordovan shoes. He normally spends $200 on Florshiem, but he really wanted to know where to buy really good shoes that would last. l suggested he buy a pair of Loake 1880's to cut his teeth on (so he can get some idea what better shoes are like), and then go onto the C&J.

All my friends think i'm crazy. They just can't understand why l get things made and spend so much money on clothes items. They always laugh about it.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-06-06 10:41:20)

 

#9 2007-06-06 09:24:00

SubtleCool
Ivy, but subtle with it.
Posts: 289

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

Ignore them.

Float along in your own realm of stylishness.


Me? Conspicuous? Lady, I'm the invisible man.

 

#10 2007-06-06 09:42:20

Tomasso
Member
Posts: 598

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#11 2007-06-06 15:36:58

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#12 2007-06-06 16:16:16

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#13 2007-06-06 16:28:56

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#14 2007-06-06 16:54:57

JamesT
Member
Posts: 146

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

FNB, welcome to nearly every day of my life.

It's hard to dress in a understated and tasteful manner when most people barely dress themselves.  At that point elegance and understatement seem to fall out of the equation. 

Living in the suburbs of Chicago, (not exactly the capital of elegantly dressed individuals), I constantly have to answer to people asking why I am so dressed up - usually when I am wearing a sportcoat and trousers.

I did, however, experience an interesting occurance a few weeks ago.  I had just finished work and was invited by a few friends of mine to attend a college party in the city (I'm 21 by the way).  As I was coming from work, I was still wearing a three-piece suit.  As I expected, I had to answer all the usual questions regarding my attire: "no, I didn't attend a formal this evening....".  At one point, I found myself surrounded by a gaggle of girls who had solicited my help regarding pattern matching.  It was at this point - when I was explaining how to wear checks with stripes, that some drunken fellow stumbled up to me and told me he liked my tie - but he wouldn't have worn a patterned shirt with it.  It was perhaps the only time I have ever sartorial advice from anyone my own age - let alone a drunk college student.  I was very suprised by this comment.

 

#15 2007-06-06 17:12:57

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#16 2007-06-06 17:14:09

Get Smart
Member
Posts: 1106

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#17 2007-06-06 17:19:43

JamesT
Member
Posts: 146

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#18 2007-06-06 17:40:56

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#19 2007-06-06 17:55:59

Incroyable
Member
Posts: 2310

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging


Jukebox Babe

 

#20 2007-06-06 18:32:34

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

The most stunningly dressed men and women I've ever seen were in the Italian ski resort Cortina several years ago, where dressing is as much of a sport as skiing (Maybe more so).


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#21 2007-06-06 19:49:45

eg
Member
From: Burlington, ON
Posts: 1499

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#22 2007-06-06 19:54:11

eg
Member
From: Burlington, ON
Posts: 1499

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#23 2007-06-06 20:00:40

JamesT
Member
Posts: 146

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

 

#24 2007-06-07 06:09:17

bandofoutsiders
Member
Posts: 432

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

Some thoughts on the supposed "decline" of smart dressing, particularly in menswear:

First off, the part of me that is resistant to mandates tells me that i should wear what i want and let others do the same.  That having been said, I think that the "decline" in question has less to do with a lack of caring and more to do with a lack of informed sensibility.  Clothes were something i learned about (rather recently by the standards of some here i'm guessing), as one learns about building things or fishing or whatnot.  This learning lead to individual tastes that others may or may not share.  The advent in the latter 20th century of high end designer menswear i think has contributed greatly to the decline of sensibility, but if anything, has INCREASED the extent to which people care about dressing.  The price and the label create the aura of good taste and good appearance that used to be generated by fabric, texture, color and pattern.  Thus, men don't have to think as much about what looks good on THEM as INDIVIDUALS, and adhere more closely to a generic idea of "what men wear these days."  Yes, they choose to buy it, but there is an element of dictation involved.  This is perhaps the distinction between style and fashion, the element of choice.  I'm sure some people buy Gucci for the craftsmanship or the design (although i'm skeptical about the level of craftsmanship among fashion behemoths), but most buy Gucci to own Gucci.  Even if it is homely Gucci, which abounds.  Dolce and Gabbana is worse.

The fact is, New York, particularly Manhattan, is in no shortage of people with expendable income, and most of these people probably care very much about how they look.  Trouble is, their idea of looking good seems to be along these lines:  Atrociously overstriped or patterned shirt; jacket that fits too long; faded, ripped and overpriced designer denim; and overpriced designer sneakers.  it's the 20-35 club set look.  And the people who wear it probably think they look sexy as hell.  even those in $95 pre-ripped t-shirts probably think they look amazing.  But, on the same note, if they're happy, i'm happy.

 

#25 2007-06-07 15:49:33

oldog/oldtrix
Member
Posts: 124

Re: Current Mode Of Dress In NYC Very Discouraging

Ah, the recurring “whither style, grace, taste, propriety, elegance, etc. in modern man’s wardrobe” lament.  I think it every time I get dressed, and sometimes when I’m naked and can’t think of anything better (I am almost 61, you know).  I do, however, draw some solace from what I gather to be the relative, to me, youth of the majority of contributors to this forum.   But not much solace.  After all, much of the conversation here is about custom goods, and that will never again be, if it ever was, the province of the masses of men who in an earlier era wanted, were able, and knew how to dress.  Those men were responsible for the demand for quality, well-fitting apparel that fueled the American clothing industry, wholesale and retail; though it is equally true that they–the men and the industry they supported–drew much of their sensibilities from the bespeakers of their times.  Today, a well-dressed man might draw the rare positive comment, but rarer still will be any interest in emulating his style.

So I ask, are we, the few, the proud, the brave, going the way of all flesh?  I don’t know, but I think an analogy may be drawn to transatlantic travel.  Around the same time that refinement of men’s attire reached its apogee for our purposes, if one were going to cross the ocean, one traveled by steamship.  I liken the steamship travelers to suit wearers.  The equivalent of the bespoken would be the first class passengers in their large staterooms.  Most folks could not go first class, but virtually everyone agreed that was the way to go.  As their means got less, the various classes of passengers crossed in less commodious accommodations, but they all rode the boat and their crossings were versions of what the first class passengers experienced, albeit less refined.  Then came air travel, and while it was/is still possible to go first class, the whole level of the enterprise was lowered.  Six hours on an Airbus, even sitting in a wide leather reclining seat/bed and eating off china, or even in the cabin of a private plane, is not in the same world as the first class ocean voyage of old.  Indeed, no air travel can be called refined.  It’s all just a more or less comfortable version of serviceable.  What was the clothing equivalent of the advent of air travel?  You tell me.

The analogy breaks down only at the extreme.  I don’t know that there is any way to cross the Atlantic by commercial passenger ship today, but one can yet indulge in well made raiment.  The only approximation of the first class sailing of old might be a private ocean going yacht, and that is probably a rough equivalent of bespoke.  A few can afford it and do so; most who can are not interested; and hardly anyone who can’t aspires to it.  So here we are, the ocean voyagers at Film Noir Buff; a few in bespoke suits and custom JL/EG/G&G shoes and a larger number, but still not many, in fully canvassed RTW/MTM suits and handgrade C&Js.  Meanwhile the rest of the world looks askance at us and says, “Ain’t those dudes heard about the Wright brothers?”

Last edited by oldog/oldtrix (2007-06-07 16:03:05)

 

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