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#26 2007-06-28 10:57:20

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

^^^  Thanks, I really appreciate the kind words.

A small nit to pick (I suppose with myself as I named the thread) is that I have never heard, outside the strange little world of the internet, the term "spalla camicia".  When talked about in Naples it is always "manica camicia" and the wrinkling is called "alla mappina" in Neapolitan.  These make sense because the part in question is the sleeve (manica) and not the shoulder.  Perhaps the "spalla camicia" term is another internet construct.

Last edited by iammatt (2007-06-28 10:57:55)

 

#27 2007-06-28 11:20:11

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

Given the comparable price point of a Kiton ready-made or MTM suit to that of a Rubinacci bespoke suit, with Kiton possibly being even be more expensive than a Rubinacci, Rubinacci seems like a no-brainer between the two brands for a Neapolitan suit.  Just don't get on Mariano's bad side smile


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#28 2007-06-28 15:05:44

oldog/oldtrix
Member
Posts: 124

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#29 2007-06-28 16:00:54

kc
Member
Posts: 61

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#30 2007-06-28 16:30:53

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#31 2007-06-28 17:54:36

jsprowls9
Member
From: Denver, CO
Posts: 250

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#32 2007-06-29 02:25:26

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13195

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-06-29 03:22:24)

 

#33 2007-06-29 02:33:47

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#34 2007-06-29 02:35:16

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#35 2007-06-29 04:51:40

Cantabrigian
Member
Posts: 232

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#36 2007-06-29 06:32:07

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13195

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-06-29 06:54:31)

 

#37 2007-06-29 07:18:14

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#38 2007-06-29 07:21:25

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#39 2007-06-29 08:09:52

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#40 2007-06-29 08:15:42

Cantabrigian
Member
Posts: 232

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#41 2007-06-29 08:22:24

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#42 2007-06-29 08:24:21

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#43 2007-06-29 08:42:54

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#44 2007-06-29 08:54:49

Cantabrigian
Member
Posts: 232

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#45 2007-06-29 09:32:52

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#46 2007-06-29 11:21:44

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

With all of the breathless Internet chatter on Neapolitan tailors, I would have thought that members of the fora community would have discovered even a slightly wider trade by now.  Rubinacci aside, judging from pictures of the work of the so-called Neapolitan master tailors, those mysterious artisans tucked away in their ateliers (known only to those living in Naples), and comments from their patrons that are mixed at best (even cautioning me about Neapolitan tailors who are less than honorable in their business practices) I have to wonder what all the fuss is about and whether there really is that much great tailoring happening in Naples these days.  Maybe, as with once-great tailoring trades in other parts of the world, tailoring in Naples is a romantic thing of the past.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#47 2007-06-29 11:44:40

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

^^^ There is definitely some truth to that.  I don't have the time, patience or the resources to try more than one, but I can say that there are two other tailors in Naples whose work I have seen a bit of and who by I am very impressed.  I think that either would be an excellent choice if you were planning on going there.  I don't think they, for me, are as good or better, but they are very good.  The same goes for shirtmakers.  Perhaps there are two or three good ones.  Pantmakers the same.  It really is not that different than New York, it is just that few people have been there, so they want to make everybody else think that it is a different, secret world.

 

#48 2007-06-29 11:45:12

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#49 2007-06-29 12:23:32

Cantabrigian
Member
Posts: 232

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

#50 2007-06-29 13:16:59

jsprowls9
Member
From: Denver, CO
Posts: 250

Re: Shirtsleeve shoulder, spalla camicia

 

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