A couple new shoulder/spalla designations featured in the article on Neapolitan tailors posted earlier. Interesting comment, too, about Neapolitan shoulders not having much pleating on the shoulder.  So many spallas, so few Neapolitan tailors to make them

The shoulders are one of the trademark features of the Neapolitan suit: natural and unstructured, with a minimal amount of pleating that usually shows only when the jacket has seen some use and the fabric has "given" a little bit.
Some Maestros like their coat’s shoulders to look really soft, understated and “egg shaped” (“spalla cadente”), others prefer the bolder, natural pitched shoulder look (“spalla insellata”).
Another classic feature of the Neapolitan shoulder is the backward oriented center seam: it helps the un-padded shoulder to follow the natural curve of the man’s body and to hold tight to his arching lower neck and shoulder.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-07-02 20:23:56)