This was pointed out to me. I thought the topic interesting but some of the advice unfortunate. Reminiscent of people who secretly read books from the 80s and then set themselves up as authorities. What's even more interesting is the idea here that one shouldn’t be a fashion slave and yet the reasons for not having a hacking pocket seem based on the principle that they could only follow someone else's rules.
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71068
Hacking pockets on a double breasted jacket may not be common but I have seen them. They lend the wearer a sense of individuality. You must ask yourself do you want to be an individual or fit in unnoticeably. I suppose only the wearer can answer that. I understand that someone must experiment a bit to find the right tailor and style for themselves but it is "getting" a double breasted suit with hacking pockets and one without that will help settle your own look. Otherwise, you are going to be unhappy. If the people you ask want to pay for your suit then take their advice, otherwise you need to consider who you will be around and whether they will reward you for having some autonomy in your selections. At least one of the people dispensing advice here has no taste of his own and strikes me as a dishonestly jealous person who might actually give out
The only reason not to wear hacking or slanted pockets might be your posture. They are common in England but the English stand straighter than Americans do. We have mastered the art of slouch. Slanted pockets look better on people who stand straighter, the more the pockets slant, and the truer that is.
All the "historical" reasons are gone. In America there is a new mood about custom details; suits are worn by men who want to wear them to look good. I would think people would notice your choice of cloth more than if the pockets are slanted. I have seen Tony Blair wearing pockets only slightly slanted and I have seen pockets on a 45 degree angle. Sometimes it is a matter of degree.
Ticket pockets on work suits are clutter. If you already own a suit that has one on it, then do enjoy the suit without worries but don't get one put on unless you want people to think you work in retail...not that there's anything wrong with that .
I posted on that thread, too. My objections, to be clear, have nothing to do with rules or the fact that hacking pockets come from riding coats. Like rsmeyer, the lines, to my eye, fight. If the original poster really wants that, fine. It's his call and I won't deride him for it. He does, however, run a more substantial risk of dissatisfaction by going the slanted route for his first excursion into DB land.
EDIT: And I still like ticket pockets. If that's travelling salesman turf, so be it.
Last edited by AQG (2007-07-05 08:00:47)
I don’t think either of you are mistaken about the DB hacking pockets being aesthetically optimal. But so what? Sometimes individuality and esprit need to take precedence over the concept of the perfect runway model. The idea that you should wait 14 suits to try something you are interest in is romancing mediocrity and repression. Get the suit you want and if it doesn’t work then at least you’ve developed style. Experimentation is important as long as it is your own.
The original question was "Does one ever put slanting pockets on DB suits?" To tell this guy unequivocally NO is unfortunate. I have seen them, they aren’t bad if you can carry the look off. And one step towards carrying a look off is being interested it. If his counselors don’t like it personally because they are afraid to make a stand or don't know how it will be perceived, fine but don’t give me it's based on history or tradition. Innovation means that both are to be referenced not slavishly obeyed. Besides hacking pockets have been around on both single and double breasted for a while. As long as the suit itself is overall appropriate silhouette, pattern and fabric, a detail like that cannot spoil it.
I think it depends more on who you are, if you have military posture and you are in an environment where they don’t want to crush individuality then it is not going to be lethal and the "imbalance" may cause interest or admiration that the man has his own personal style. At least if there had been more discussion or thought about why, but this looked like the dictatorial stance is really taking root over there. Oh well, fish rots from the head down.
About ticket pockets, I said what I said but that's a detail I would caution someone against getting before a hacking pocket. Hacking pockets indicate unique style, ticket pockets indicate I live in Ralph Lauren’s past. How's that for history?
Having said that, I actually have a couple of suits with them myself and I hate them. I asked my tailor if he would make hacking pockets for me on my last suit and he told me no strictly because my posture isn’t straight enough.
Nothing wrong at all with experimentation. When it comes to suits, though, it is expensive and finding out that you don't like something can be painful. If the OP in the thread doesn't like the hacking pockets so much, would it ruing the jacket for him? Depends largely on whether he's a detail man or a big picture man. If the former, it would probably be grating. If the latter, he likes the suit overall and does it differently next time. Probably the best thing for him to do, is look for some pictures of DBs with hackers to get a feel for it. To judge by the way he posed the question, he's probably never seen one. An example would probably clarify the entire issue for him.
I'm not letting you off the hook on the ticket pocket. I find them tremendously useful for carrying change.
Last edited by AQG (2007-07-05 08:42:55)
If one is asking the question, then I assume one is going to have the suit bespoke/MTM. It would therefore be a considerable waste of $$$ if the look doesn't come off.
"The second part of the House of Cards series "To Play the King" Shows the PM's chief whip wearing DBs with hacking pockets. he should rent that. It's also an enjoyable movie."
Is that Tim Stamper?
For another cinematic reference, if I recall correctly, the French information broker in Munich wears a DB blazer with hacking pockets in one scene. The look struck me, perhaps erroneously, as simultaneously very French and very '70s.
I like ticket pockets on tweed or flannel plaid sport coats, but not on blazers and suits.
I am not a big fan of slanted pockets for suits. I would only rock them with a laid-back flannel or wooly fall or winter weight fabric suit but I think they look off on a dark hard finished worsted.
I like hacking pockets on DB's and am actually thinking about getting a patch pocket DB as, for some reason or other, they have aroused my curiosity recently.
I don't see hacking pockets on a DB coat working as well together as hacking pockets on a SB coat. Hacking pockets, I think, tend to contribute to a slimming effect, whereas DB coats, by design, are wider, making straight pockets more appropriate.
A salient argument, Marc.
From a design perspective, I'm inclined to agree. RTW designs tend to follow this aesthetic - though, some German and Japanese fashion mags have some contradictions, this season.
I would probably opine the same as you point out to a private client. However, I would defer to the client's wishes if my opinion were overturned.