I recently met someone who is an adherent of one of the boards. And he was dressed to the nines. His suit was expensive and relatively well fitted, his shirt and tie also. His shoes were exquisite and so were his socks. But, he looked artificial, I could tell he was trying too hard. He came across as a person who had an interest in clothes and just put them on with great care. At one level, I should be happy that someone even bothers to dress well, so I am not trying to discourage them. However, to look too well pressed, too fitted, and everything just so, to be identified as someone who just put on a lot of nice clothes and strained to make them look nice is to alert people to your preoccupation with clothes.
This guy that I met was so trussed up that he reminded me of the type of look and movement one saw in the just pre WW1 footage of men moving about or even standing still. One should work on posture and add some jaunt to their step, or at least some energy. Just standing around looking well dressed hasnt worked well since the later part of the 19th century. As a matter of fact, the man I met had more than a passing resemblance to Toulouse-Lautrec
Later that day, i saw someone exquisitely well dressed. I couldnt be sure if he had a clue about clothing or not but he looked natural and comfortable and in balance. he looked both approachable and authoritative too. He excited wonder though and that is the point. i didnt know what the qualities that made him better were but the effect on me was positive I could identify that he was wearing the usual items we might associate with being well dressed which also leads to the overdone school.
No one admires a statue, thats the purview of the pigeon. One wants to have the air of the Flaneur not of the flaccid
Therefore, are clothes just a hobby like sports memorabilia and youre simply collecting them and placing them on your mantle? Or are you interested in wearing clothes comfortably and well? One needs to work towards the art of wearing clothes with some deshabille not as though they are afraid to get their pants dirty if they sit down anywhere. People should think you look good without being able to know why you look good. Posture and gait help, personal grooming and hygiene help. Looking stiff, repressed, anti-social and totally into clothes makes people focus on the negative, that you are into yourself only, that you are an outsider. The art is to look good and still be a part of the mis en scene, not apart from it.
Take Dali, nonconventional to many a reader of this MB perhaps but his sense of color, of ease of mixing never violated the cannons of fit. He had an eccentric style but he did it well. It was his and it looked natural for him, where it wouldve been offensive on others.
Im seeing too many who worry about what selections to make and not how to wear things. Id like to hear people's approach to looking stylish not by the native qualities of the choices they are making.
I know it isnt easy to translate non physical choices of clothing like stances into words but your efforts or any that youve seen might help to actually wear clothes with flare. It might be useful for people to try to explain it as an exercise even if the description falls short. I think breaking the ice here will ultimately lead to a flow in the ideas that occur to someone to look good.
I once saw a Japanese man in a DB darkest navy mohair suit in the absolute dread of summer looking so very cool and easy, no wrinkles, no stiffness, puffing on his cigarette with his spread collared white shirt looking crisp but unstarched. Black monk strap shoes that added to the jaunt in his gait. Natually well dressed, seemingly unaware that he had even achieved an enviable look.
My college baseball coach told us to "act like you have been there before". The same holds true for the type of guy that you describe.
I think that clothes should be a dialogue with the world in some sense.
I think that they should express an aspect of you which ordinary conversation cannot... They should convey a sort of air of what you're all about.
Clothes too can be armour and camouflage and signal all sorts of messages about how approachable or unapproachable you are... But only to those who can read their message...
Mostly I think clothes should be a part of one's signature, a way of being yourself to the fullest.
Oh, I dunno.
Really interesting thread though...
Last edited by Miles Away (2006-06-07 12:41:26)
It's a challenge pulling off that casual look. The better the quality of what you're wearing, the more toned down it has to be to keep heads from turning to follow you down the street.
When all around you are wearing cotton, a double breasted Savile Row product stands out. As do benchmade shoes in a sea of Nikes.
I had a memorable experience outside the Peninsula Hotel in Kowloon a couple of years ago trying to smoke a cigar. I was wearing my usual db. Within 15 minutes I was surrounded by a small crowd of people from the mainland who were pointing me out to their children and asking me to write a note in their school notebooks.
This is a really interesting topic and I totally agree with you FNB that there is a line between being well turned out and truly elegant and that line is psychological and spiritual in a way rather than something that can be followed as a rule. Someone can obey all the rules perfectly and it lacks that certain something. It's too studied.
Reading about Fred Astaire knocking the newness out of a hat by throwing it against the wall a few times is the key that explained it for me and I'm still working on it. When I am overdressed for the environment I am self conscious, and there is a certain aggressiveness in dressing nicely that people detect. People get nervous around you, they think you are trying to say you are better than they are. It's SUCH a fine line and I think a lot of people shy completely away from it which is why dressing down becomes the standard anyways.
A truly elegant dresser does not look like they stepped out of Esquire circa 1934 or out of GQ circa 2006, you can't quite put your finger on what it is but they have that sprezzatura. And all the rules about cuff length and trouser breaks are a small part of it, very relevant but not the definition of style.
Seems to me that one of the key issues is practice. Just think about the young man whose mother has dressed him impeccably. He is ill at ease and would probably look better in casual clothes. Years later the same fellow might look elegant in the same type outfit but this time the reason would be that he has worn the clothes enough he is comfortable in them.
Here is a quote I like:
“Oh, never mind the fashion. When one has a style of one’s own, it is always twenty times better.”
Margaret Oliphant
Last edited by gng8 (2006-06-07 20:33:43)
Necessary, but probably not sufficient, conditions for an elegantly dressed man:
Wears what *he* likes and feels comfortable with
Wears comfortable clothes
Is not afraid of adding some color to his life
Knows how to mix and match color, pattern, and textures with *balance*
The fit of his clothes is impeccable
Does not give sh!t about the rules
Does not base his clothing decisions on self-proclaimed experts on the internet
Appreciates clothes from different countries and cultures, and mixes them smartly
Does not think about what he's wearing after getting dressed
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2006-06-15 11:17:30)
Hey Twin Six. All very well said. I know that pinching the crotch thing far too well...not good.
One of the most disturbing things Ive heard on all the MBs is that people think if they dress too well at a certain age or at a certain type of company theyll be picked on. Its more truthful that if they give off "Pick on me" vibrations theyll get mistreated at work. I have always dressed better than anyone else and it made people more respectful of me and have a higher opinion of me. I often ended up shopping for people at or near the top or giving them tips. MDs would bring things in that they or their wife had bought over the weekend to ask me if it was acceptable and Id give the article the sniff test.
Additionally, I would attract the notice of older men who also liked clothes and who would compliment me on my outfit, ask what make my things were and also ask for tips.
But the idea that you get punished for being well put together is astonishing.
Hmmm, I think style is elastic. I started out with some things that were self conscious for me but I persevered and now they are second nature. Maybe its closer to the truth to say that you should work on one item that makes you less than comfortable at a time as an occasional experiment to see if youre truly uncomfortable with it or if you would find you indeed like wearing it.
Sprezzatura is an important element, as is posture and bearing. All part of getting in touch with your sartorial chi.
Just the other day I was telling a young bloke who was dressing in a suit and tie for perhaps the first time - for an interview - he loved it - I was advising him to wear it around home for a half a day or so to get used to it. Then to wear it on the tram and train as a practise run for getting to the interview and then go and have a coffee in it . He looked good but needed to get rid of the stiff look some men have when wearing a jacket and tie.
I used to love new things and put off wearing them - now I prefer things that have been broken in. Not that I need all my OCBDs to have a lot of foxing on the collar but I like to relax in my clothes.
I still have this thing, I'm not sure where I got it, perhaps I formed a view thinking about the english and their suits, but when I get a new suit or jacket I will wear it for nearly a week non stop to break it in and actively seek a day when there is a light drizzle of rain to wear the jacket in the damp for 30 minutes or so - I think it helps shape things to my body and make them look like my clothes. It may be just magical thinking but it does help me feel more comfortable.
FNB Quote: ''My style invokes ordinary people to say, "wow you look good, tell me how to look good." Fellow clothes aficionados simply fall into step and assume Im one of them and start speaking to me about style as if we have always known each other. is there a better measure of stylish accomplishment?''
Without answering the specific question, let me pose another, on the premise that we accept what you say: that you have so much IT, that it is nearly a crime to keep it from the world and to continue to fail to take your rightful place among the style leaders of this generation. Remember you too could be photographed, Wall's cornetto in hand, with Luca Rubinacci! However, you have mentioned before (basically) that your perception of the consequences of (literally) coming out of the closet - all stripes blazing - might be to get upbraided or even fired from the work that enables you to indulge your closet habits. How do you cope with this restriction of your freedom - or is this kind of thing - having ball-crunching employment - just normal in New York?
1) Don't wear too many extravagant items all together, this applies to colour and pattern of different pieces of clothing along as with various accessories.
2) Don't worry if everything isn't neatly pressed, if your clothing has some odd creases in it.
3) Its ok to miss out some bits & pieces, you don't HAVE to wear a tie, or a pocket square, but don't forget your trousers obviously. You can replace some items with more casual things if you want, for example wear some suede loafers with your suit to a more casual event if you want.
4) Its ok to mix genres, wear a tweed jacket with charcoal flannel trousers, or dare I say it jeans ... or a tweed overcoat over a suit ... you don't need to be completely congruent at all times.
Indeed it is often these little twists that add an acceptable touch of distinctiveness. Keeping them to a couple per days' wardrobe is important to avoid looking eccentric.