Last edited by katon (2011-12-23 13:20:29)
And also remembering that the Brooks we all fondly so remember was built on a series of 'firsts', introducing Buttondowns, Shetlands, Madras and Seersucker to the US... The company was all about the latest thing being sold as traditional.
... And it all mainly was traditional, just not traditional in America.
I wish the public at large understood fit, and what can be altered on a shirt, jacket or trouser to make it fit in such a way you don't need m2m or bespoke. I mean why take a shirt back because the sleeves are too long? There is a lot of scope as to what can be changed as I'm sure everyone on here knows, this guy today thought I was taking the piss when I said his sports jacket could be altered to fit.
My point is that the ignorance undermines the idea of well tailored RTW when it comes to the big, department store tailoring. And the knock on effect is these companies get away with murder when it comes to fit and quality. Just look at those preppy blogs for instance. As long as it's got the logo, that's enough.
Last edited by Oo Bop Sh'bam (2011-12-23 13:14:51)
Few consideration.
Brooks Brothers began selling cheap clothes for sailors,but in mid XIX had to be a first rate firm (for American standards).
President Lincon bought from Brooks...ok Abe was not Edward the Prince of Wales,but i don't think that the President of United States would buy in a bad quality store.
For sure il late XIX BB was already a legendary firm in New York.
In 20s and 30s quality was at top; the best British goods an materials.
Not so the clothes design:frankly BB coats of 30s seems to me boxy and ungraceful (see the ugly double breasted's lapels,for exemple).
From late 40s and in 50s clothes design is much more clean and smart,while remaining classic (nothing ultra skinny lapels for exemple).
Quality ,any way,is at the best.
The 'Brooks Customer' who wanted a traditional unchanging style and was prepared to pay a bit extra for high quality and good service has all but gone. Few men want or understand these things now.
The situation in the UK is no different where chains like Dunn & Co have gone and you are hard pressed to find a traditional mens outfitters shop outside major cities.
All Brooks Brothers are doing is trying to survive in a changed market. On the positive side, when I have shopped in their stores in the US I have found the service and the clothing they are selling is still superior to most other companies, albeit that not much of the stock interests me personally. The sales people are great and there are still many who have been with the company for years, although you do sense a wish to retire on their part when you speak to them!
The London BB branches don't carry the full range (e.g. US made shirts) so there is even less to interest. But when I have bought or tried on the odd thing in Regents Street or the City I have found the staff to be polite, attentive and knowledgeable about their stock, which puts them several notches above the competition.
This reminds me of what Kingstonian has said in the past about not deserting the high street but the high street deserting him. I'd forgotten all about shops like Dunn and Co. - less so Daks, Jaeger and Hector Powe, because my father still talks of them with fondness. Nothing to do with 'Ivy' of course, simply places where a man could go for whatever he found necessary, from a decent overcoat to a pair of gloves.
I've got a Burtons crombie coat hanging up under the stairs. It weighs a ton and the quality is peerless, it must be forty years old at least.
Look what has become of Burtons; selling appaling tat to 18yr olds. There's a company that saw which way things were going and repositioned themselves ahead of the game. I suppose they adapted better than some of the names like Dunns. Hornes were another lot that went by the way.
Speaking of vintage Brooks, I'm surprised this number on Etsy hasn't sold yet...
http://www.etsy.com/listing/82857034/1960s-navy-blue-brooks-brothers-blazer
Last edited by katon (2011-12-29 23:35:50)
/\ This is the kind of thing we think of in Europe when we talk about how egalitarian the Ivy style was. Sold as 'elite', but sold as 'elite' to the masses !
Another bump for a Brooks related thread.
I wonder if they still have all the old patterns etc...
There must be lots of tailors and cutters and seamstresses who would work for them, back in the old days before M&S put the last nails in the BB coffin...
Is it really impossible these days to produce rtw clothes of that quality?
some Brooks Brothers locations are better than others ... my local one used to be a very good one, now it's lame ... but it's still possible to find good Scottish cashmere v-necks, decent American ties, a few passable plain USA-made buttondowns, and a good shoe section with English and American shoes, and some Royall Lyme splashes ....
maybe a couple more things here and there, but a far far cry from the days you wandered into the place and wanted it all .....
the old Brooks disappeared years ago when the Chinese, Malaysian and other ersatz stuff replaced the old USA and British-made goods, and all the sacks disappeared, and the new people neither like the old company's traditional styles nor think that they're viable ... they must be doing fine financially with their new fits and direction and current business plan.
Most salespeople there today don't know the difference between sack and darted coats.
My wish list is extensive but there isn't a single thing on it from Brooks Brothers.
If I were them I'd be tired of constantly complaining old customers too.
Or maybe the old customers are more amenable to changing with the times and just buying what's on offer? Perhaps they're far less discerning than Stan the Man? For every guy that goes in and questions the presence of darts and has to explain that a sack is something other than that thing the salesman's lunch is in, they probably make 350 sales to unquestioning consumers.