I liked his Chittleborough & Morgan suit. Wasn't keen on the raised back seam though.

he lauds a flat fronted trouser, deliberately designed to sit on the hip like a jean, its just so very wrong with tailored clothing. he claims he finds it more comfortable, but I don't think ANYONE who understands tailored clothing would agree with this. Its pretty much a fact that a trouser sitting on the natural waist looks right (as the jacket waist corresponds to this horizontal line), sits better as there is a natural divot in your body for it to sit on and also covers your stomach (which even slim men have to some extent). Any tailor will tell you the same with about 200 years cumulative knowledge on the row, every menswear guru from Flusser to Boyer also would advise the same. This idiot though wants to go to places like Huntsman, Cifonelli etc. and ask for a jeans style tailored suit trouser? It makes you wonder what they must be thinking, as they must fear for their reputations making such things which are then marketed on the internet. I haven't asked but I'm pretty sure my tailor would tell me that they don't make such a trouser in his establishment, likely sending me elsewhere. As I said Compey is basically trying to go out of his way to dress like a prole but in some of the most highly esteemed tailoring houses in the world.

ON the shirt issue, you are absolutely right, a shirt in classic menswear is a piece of fucking underwear at the end of the day. Under a waistcoat you can only really see the collar and cuffs. Without a waistcoat between the front of the jacket your tie covers most of the shirt as well so again its really only the collar and cuffs which show. Which makes all this fucking talk about handwork ridiculous especially handwork which they admit is only for show as there is no benefit over a hand stich. Its clearly a case of these iGent fuckwits coming from a place of wearing a shirt as outerwear and not being used to wearing a jacket, so they are left with the impression that a shirt should be showy. Complete buffoons.

Compey is a self proclaimed guru, but he is false prophet. He doesn't have the knowledge to advise men and certainly not men who want to spend thousands of pounds on tailored clothing in places where they teach you how to dress if you lack some knowledge (but have the cash). Most of the houses on the Row will give you pretty honest good advise if you ask for it, if you are lucky and get someone who I use for example, who has dressed some of the best dressed men in the world you will be shown what fabrics and patterns go with what, what cut would flatter you (after all bespoke is about what flatters you which is even more specific than what flatters men in general) and so on. Therefore Comps services are not really required by men who actually can afford to be dressed in places he covers. I cant help wondering if he would be happier serving the jeans and t shirt crowd, surely the Abercrombie and Fitches have more marketing budget, he prefers the casual aesthetic, he has covered Trunk a couple of times which does serve this market so wonder why he chooses to stick with high end bespoke tailoring houses?

fruity

Last edited by Oldfruit1 (2013-12-07 05:56:52)

Flat fronted trousers look good on the young a trim, and that's probably the demographic he's aiming for.

There's two things to consider. What the tailor thinks looks good and what the customer wants.

They don't always synchronise.

Deciding on pleats or no pleats is a reasonable choice. However, wearing top-end-made suit trousers on the hips, leaving a ruddy great shirt-gap between coat button and trouser tops is just ludicrous. As Fruity says above (and I agree with a lot of his views above - except the bit on clubs - more infra) the tailors are probably torn between falling for his blagging on PR and having their names associated with Cromp-tat all over the www.

English clubs, Fruity are where we go to escape the ladies - but you are obviously too young to understand this growing need in advancing years. Yackety-yack-yack-yack-yack. Far better to go somewhere where one can say ''I said to him and he said to me, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah, blah blah, blah - and fall asleep under a copy of The Times, which gently susurrates in time to persistent post-prandial flatulence.