Friends,
After reading about our gracious hosts latest Wild(ean) sartorial adventures here: http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/the-importance-of-not-being-earnest it got me a thinking (a rare occurrence I know) about a new Blazer for summer.
So what materials, colours and styling do we consider appropriate for the 'perfect' summer Blazer.
I remember up in Formby's stomping ground, one sun drenched summer when the Roodee racecourse relaxed its jacket requirement for the County Stand. Only once mind you, but the officials realised that no one, even the Cheshire set and well to do business folk, would have a jacket suitable for the Mediterranean conditions. Of course, no one, but me.
Gentlemen....gentlemen...
Some of you (one from the windy city, no less!) seem to be under the misconception that Britain is a cold country! It isn't. Britain can wet and overcast but it ain't cold in relation to its latitude. Blame it on the boogie......er... gulf stream....!!!!!
As I'm typing this in 11 deg C outside and its winter......it's wet though.....oh......and overcast.....
So....I wants answers....!!!!!
The best material for a blazer is navy blue serge, e.g. 12 ounces medium weight. That is too hot for high summer temperatures. I therefore have a lighter wool blazer and wear linen in 85 degrees plus.
Last edited by Bishop of Briggs (2012-01-01 04:30:44)
I have a suit length of Lumbs Golden Bale solid navy. Thinking of doing a double breasted blazer with gold buttons ala Thurston Howell.
Dont. Unless you want to look 20 years older. Or do you want to go for the ChineIgent-Schoolboy look, having it made 3 sizes too small for you?
I think the conventional wisdom for a 'summer' blazer would be to go for a hopsack (not sure which books to look in), or perhaps a mohair blend (try Harrison's evolution) for climate control.
Personally I think a serge looks best as well on a blazer, anything over 12oz is going to drape well, obviously too warm to wear for summer though. One additional thing I would suggest is to go for a one button on the sleeve, very iGent I know which I wouldn't usually suggest but in this instance in de-blings the jacket somewhat and gives it a more refined less gaudy appearance.
Has anyone here got a blazer made with a particular fabric they think looked particularly good with this style of jacket?
Any pictures to share?
Most of the standard cloth books have a hopsack weave.
Minnis Classic II
No: 0764 to 0767
https://shop.hfwltd.com/collection/31
Minnis had a wonderful wool & cashmere cloth in their Flannel book which had a beautiful bloom to the cloth, reminiscent of doeskin. Perfect winter Blazer material. Sadly sold out now.
Usual suspects:
Serge/Twill
Barathea
Hopsack.
Fresco for the scorchers.
Mohair is for suits in my opinion.
I have a 4X2 DB with aged silver colored buttons, hip patch pockets, pick stitching, made from vintage Dormeuil Tonik (late 70s/early 80s stock) just a shade lighter than navy. Despite its weight, perhaps 11/12 oz, the relatively open weave of the tonik makes it perfect for all but the very hottest days. And it has a brilliant sheen in the sunlight and works well in the evening as well. The cloth is really brilliant, much better for a blazer than the type of mohair being produced today, but still obviously not to everyone's taste.
Well - I would do it this way:
- 2 button single breasted
- open weave, and / or silk/linen mix
- "light navy"; not "uniform navy" colour
- half lined
- medium brown horn buttons (not "WHOITE" like in Hacketts last summers collection)
- neutral lining, not Igent flashy
- 3 buttons on sleeve (non working)
Almost like a left-over suit jacket. Pair it with slightly trimmer chinos and dark brown unlined C/J loafers and a button cuff white shirt w/out breast pocket.
Oh, and leave at home: watch with nato strap, wrist bracegaylet, funny socks, boater hat, bulldog on a leash, Pimms bottle, fixed gear bicycle, penny-farthing, "craft ale", carnation, pipe.
Think springtime, western shore on Lake Como, ideally my preferred little village called .
And not Tweed Run or Halloween.
Last edited by Beestonplace (2013-12-29 05:34:54)
Good.
"No gold buttons" = better overall style than being dressed up like a captain
If the buttons were actually made of gold, I'd have a different opinion.
Last edited by dryplum (2014-01-01 10:23:41)