If the pants suck eggs I'm pasting your face over mine when I post the picture.
Well, I just followed their "how to measure" guide. I was careful and diligent, but I figure that method may result in quite a margin for error. I may just get lucky. I'm fully aware of and willing to suffer any possible consequences.
Damn, I should have just done their replication service. Well, if the MTM pair are unacceptable, I may still try that option.
I know people here in melb who have got shirts - they are great if you know what you are doing.
Much the same with trousers although trousers are a bit harder.
The secret is not to tweak existing "good" measurements too much unless you know what you are doing. eg - making the waist narrower on a shirt can actually make it ride up more, and look "not fitted" - shirts need a bit of give there, raising collar height without raising neck band can result in weirdness.
With trousers you must understand the 3 dimensional aspect around crutch and arse. Just tweaking thighs f'rinstance can result in strange outcomes, just adding height to inseam and out seam can result in high waisted baggy bum - if you understand the way trousers are made and what adjustments to thighs, waist, front rise or back rise and hips and inseam height can do to them - then it should be apples.
Also understanding the characteristics of materials helps - cotton twill chinos will fall and wear /hang different to 100% wool flannel. Linen doesn't stretch etc, wool will stretch and recover. Proper woollen, not worsted, flannel wont work too narrow and tight. And so on and so forth.
I reckon most of the mistakes are made by neophytes not knowing their materials, or understanding the 3 dimensional/system wide knockon aspects, or themselves and their shape and measurements.
A couple of weeks ago I sent a pair of trousers from a 70s/80s Brooks Makers grey suit to these people:
http://elitebespoketailoringltd.co.uk/
It took them a week and a half to copy them, and it wasn't cheap, but they have come out well. In fact it's a similar price to O'C's, but without the wait, and the risks of customs or needing alterations.
Photos will follow one day. They certainly appear very close to the ones I sent them. Which, being Makers, means a wonderful rise, naturally.
It's only January and I've already bought a pair of flannels, a pair of chinos, a shirt and a pair of shoes (details to follow). Whoops. I haven't got a problem, honest.
Please help me.
Link to the Luxire thread, just in case anyone visiting this thread is interested in how they turned out.
http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=15906
What should to fit be like on these brought a pair for 3.99 in a charity, had them tapered to 8" on the hem and they still look pretty baggy ans not really tapered? Particularly around the knee, despite them supposedly being tapered all the way up the leg?
Did you have them pinned when you had them altered ?
Yeah she's usually really good, everything else I've taken has been fine, but these are a bit looser than I expected- maybe the fact they were already cuffed confused things?
Hmmmm.... Take 'em back and try again. Be REALLY clear about what you want. Maybe they won't charge you to redo them?
What do you generally specify? I had high hopes for these because they've got a er... high rise on them (I think around 13), but having measured them roughly they seem to have a 13.5- 14 thigh and about a 10.5-11 knee?
Last edited by Tommy (2014-11-11 15:55:11)
Well, when getting items tapered, I've never specified thigh or knee length. I just say "taper to 7.5 inch hem" or "taper to 8 inch hem". The place I go always just seems to give a proper taper that's not too severe. Perhaps the pants you're dealing with were just way too large to begin with? If the ass and hip area is way too big, it could be difficult to get the leg slimmed down properly.
They're a lot slimmer than they were- but maybe you're right, maybe they're just gonna be too baggy full stop. Still not sure about cuffs either but they came with the trousers?
Last edited by oxford cloth button down (2014-11-11 16:43:39)
My local trouser tailor is usually excellent, always tapers from the butt down, have had issues before with other alteration places making
a right hash of a job - odd as one is used by prominent designer brand so you would expect them to be on their game!
Last edited by Tomiskinky (2014-11-12 02:21:56)
Has anyone tried these? www.howardyount.com
Not cheap, probably on a par with Brooks but reasonable shipping costs.
Made in Brooklyn as are the Andover flannels. Same factory?
Last edited by aljazz (2014-11-13 08:10:11)