Thank you for these threads, JS. I often tire of the "Trad this..." or "NOT Trad that..." threads over on AAAT. I'm interested in real clothes worn today in 2007 that fit this style. I don't even care if they have a particular name or categorization. I love that you guys aren't what I"ll call "brand bullies" in that you don't encourage others to "aspire" to closet's full of oversized Bills and pricey Alden's (sure, they're nice shoes but is it really Shell Cordovan or nothing?). Give me clothes I can wear, that I can afford and that FIT!

Speaking of Bills and the chino thread you've begun, what is your opinion on the way chinos should actually fit? To me, they should be a regular to slimmer fitting pant. They should look like they do on Guy Woodhouse in Rosemary's Baby, Pepard in BAT or even McQueen in, well, anything he did. Baggy Bills are nice in terms of fabric and durability but, if they're just too voluminous for most guys. Perhaps this is a matter of body type and personal preference, but it still doesn't look right to my eye. I've recently bought a pair of the J. Crew Classic Slim Fit Essential Chino and I think they fit like chinos should. Slim but not tight. Sits on the hips. Relatively long rise. Nice fabric. J. Crew doesn't do everything right (in fact, they don't do a great deal right) but they make a nice chino, Trad or not...

Keep up the good work.

Last edited by Archie (2007-07-30 07:01:03)

Has anyone tried the O'Connell khaki?  It's narrower than the Bills.  I personally would like to see some Corbins made on 50's and 60's patterns myself.  I haven't bought a pair of Corbins in a while, so I don't know what's available now.  They've washed their hands of the 3/2 suit as far as I can tell.

Post WWII and the Korean War, veterans on the GI bill wore their Army issued "summer dress" khaki colored chino trousers on campus after discharge.  And subsequently acquired more of the same inexpensively from Army-Navy stores. More refined civilian versions caught on, as well as the use of khaki colored maintenance uniform pants similar to Army issue.  Summer Dress khakis were very full cut and long rise with very deep pockets. Original Bill's were based on the real thing. (Summer dress consisted of a khaki camp shirt and trousers. The "dress" suit-type uniform was worn in colder weather.)

Olive green fatigue pants, or utilities, served the same purpose but were not replaced as were "khakis".

Army field coats served the same purpose as barn coats, etc. now.  Ever see Woody Allen circa 1970 in an Army issue olive green M-65 field jacket?

It was a matter of habit and cash-strapped practicality for many ex-GIs who were married and often the first in their families to attend college.

........................

Corbin (made in WV) of the '60s were basically regular rise, never pleated, about 16 inches at the ankle. OK, but not great construction. Two back besom pockets, one buttoned. Berle (made in Charleston, SC) kind of copied Corbin with slightly less expensive materials and at about 2/3 the retail price. Corbin had bar-tack stitching on the back pockets, Berle didn't. Otherwise not much difference in retrospect. Find some UVa photos of the era, and the better dressed male students were probably wearing Corbin.

Berle's still based in the Charleston area, made in Georgia,  but import some of their trousers. They make the Charleston Khakis. > www.berle.com

Corbin > www.corbintrousers.com is now a part of Individualized Apparel Group > www.iagfinancial.com

(Thank you for your help.)

Last edited by Howard (2007-08-04 00:49:02)

Last edited by Howard (2007-08-07 01:46:30)