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#1 2007-08-18 08:56:26

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

British Invasion of Shirtmakers

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB118738783860501399.html?mod=home_we_banner_left


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#2 2007-08-18 09:09:26

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

Dress British, think Yiddish.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#3 2007-08-18 09:14:45

The Queen
Member
Posts: 24

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

Indeed.

 

#4 2007-08-18 10:05:40

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

Not a word mentioned about modified ready-made.  Interesting.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#5 2007-08-18 10:14:59

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#6 2007-08-18 10:20:39

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

 

#7 2007-08-19 23:01:03

Howard
Member
From: Drimtaidhvrickhilliohattan
Posts: 236

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

What UK off-the-peg brand(s) (made in Romania?) have single needle side and sleeve seams? Are not most double needle? I may be mistaken, but I think BB uses single needle sewing on its side and sleeve seams. Even Hilditch & Key at one time used double needle sewing on its arm seam. No quality US maker uses double needle arm seams on dress shirts.

Better quality US RTW shirts have been using the questionable split yoke for years.

Sea Island 140s cotton was an option in most better US made RTW shirts 20 years ago. Behar, The shirt co. that became Talbot shirts, Troy, Polo (although most were made in England), Eagle, Gitman, Individualized, Kenneth Gordon, etc. Nothing new about Sea Island cotton in US made RTW, although back then it was questionably labelled by the Sea Island trademark owner, Threadtex of Japan.

Some Brit label shirts use fake split yokes that are just seams, not separate pieces. A well known US shirtmaker has also been guilty of the subterfuge. Held to a light, the light will reveal about 1/4" internal cloth inlay on each side of the seam in a real split yoke.  If there is no cloth "shadow" on each side of the seam it is only a seamed yoke, not separate pieces sewn together.

They failed to mention that better US RTW shirts have a separately constructed and sewn-on front placket. More expensive to produce than the typical UK placket which is folded and sewn as a continuation of the shirt front material.

 

#8 2007-08-20 00:18:08

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

Never understood the benefits of a split yoke on RTW shirts given the infinite variety of physical specs of men wearing them.  Actually, my shirtmaker doesn't even believe in them on custom-made shirts as he can achieve correct balance and fit without them, maintaining the clean, simple appearance of a 1-piece yoke.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#9 2007-08-28 10:05:54

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

 

#10 2007-08-28 10:12:28

jack_sparrow
Member
From: My Corduroy Armchair...
Posts: 1506

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

Odd how Pink is the gold standard for those who don't know. They must market themselves well.


"However, it is we of the moderator corps that
ended up handling the hundreds of Post Reports your previous - and
legendary - trolling managed to generate."

 

#11 2007-08-28 10:23:36

Cadillac-Style
Member
Posts: 79

Re: British Invasion of Shirtmakers

 

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