Thanks.
As I say I only really know Brooks "Makers" although I've got a chum with a few "Brooksgate" items I want to check out. Is there much difference in the shoulder across the old Brooks ranges would you say?
I have a Brooksgate three-piece suit that I like.
In fact, it looks better on me than most "high-end" suits I've tried including some Brionis made in Escorial and all that jazz.
Saw the "Brooksgate" stuff last night & they have a very nice slimmed down look to them without being at all skinny or skimpy.
A narrower shoulder than "Makers" I'd say, but I guess that's just to keep it all in proportion. Nice stuff.
I guess entry-level Press would be their version of a University Shop/Brooksgate range, or did Press ever offer a specific 'college boy' range in the dim & distant past?
I'd also love to know more about the Yale Coop as I only know the Harvard one. What was sold? What names? What shoes?
Brooks made shirts for Harvard, did anybody make for Yale?
I've seen a Harvard Coop Tweed Sack that looked incredibly Brooksy & wondered if Brooks had made jackets & maybe even suits for the Coop. Or maybe it was just one of Brook's makers (as opposed to "Brooks Makers") like Southwick/Deansgate/whoever...
The Brooks shirts sold at the Coop were proper Brooks BDs just with a 'Brooks Brothers for the Coop' label (or somesuch) inside. USA made of proper Brooks USA cotton. Did they also re-label other Brooks items for the Coop?
Interesting stuff!
a question regarding the earlier posts in this thread. wouldn't posers or fake trads actually be healthy for preserving the style? i'm sure not every SR customer is an english gent. in fact the row had similar problems in the past. now i don't wear full on trad so i may not be as defensive but i love sacks very much and i fear more that they may disappear rather than people wearing them in a cartoonish manner. is my fear of the sack disappearing dumbfounded?
And I have to say that the Trad forum is much smarter these days than when I first observed its genisis on AAAC.
Only the Squire & Preacher mainly post dumb shit over there. Most of the guys are a lot more savvy now than the old Harris-wannabes.
It's an evolution - just like Ivy itself, because the Ivy league style has NEVER stood still or died, no matter what you might hear from those who don't really know it. I kinda like that.
Last edited by jack_sparrow (2007-08-26 09:17:36)
I like the post on the buckle front tartan swim trou. If it's good enough for 'arry, it's good enough for me. Seriously, I remember those things, and never liked them, but now with nostalgia, I've decided to invest in a pair.
Cheerio chums,
H.
Last edited by jack_sparrow (2007-08-27 09:43:10)
On the cuff buttons:
The jacket arrived mail order with unfinished sleeves just tacked to length. The buttons were then added by an alterations tailor who finished off the sleeves but obviously skimped on the blind buttonholes. This could easily be put straight & I'm sure jackets bought with finished sleeves from Brooks would have had blind cuff buttonholes.
Last edited by jack_sparrow (2007-08-27 09:22:26)
Checked my old catalogues - This item was a new introduction in Spring '88. It was the entry level Brooks Blazer of its day.
This oughta make the "Trad" heads explode:
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showpost.php?p=610138&postcount=3
"But the Curriculum!!!!"
The Brooksgate drop is actually 7" from chest to waist. Funny, it looks less. Must be the shoulders. A nice trim cut and entirely in keeping with traditional American tailoring.
What is this curriculum then?
Funny:
Brooksgate cuff buttons were just sewn on. No 'blind' cuff buttonholes, let alone even the remote prospect of working cuff buttons.
And so I looked at the rest of my American Ivy RTW - Ditto on the whole. Press/Brooks/Haspel.
A kinda scumbag detail by Euro tailoring standards maybe, but it still doesn't put me off Ivy.
What makes me smile is that I've been obsessed by all this stuff for 28 years but only when I come on the fussy and more than a little effeminate internet clothing message boards (AAAC, SF - Not this one really) do I see all the little details that make up my taken-for-granted wardrobe.
And so my "Tradness" grows!
I love all this stuff but I don't wet myself over all the minutiea of it like a girl.
A shame I don't give a stuff for the idea of 'Tradition' in all this... I suspect I could be quite a pompous windbag if I tried...
http://www.theandovershop.com/docs/2007_catalog.pdf
Mmmm, Trad gooooooooood.
The joy of The Andover is that it is not "Trad".
Draw close -
When I speak of 'The Real Trad' I speak of the Trad that is not "Trad".
The good Trad.
The Trad beyond the borders of the land of Andy.
The Other Trad of nuance and choice and personal style, of which few there know but a whit.
Look upon the offerings of The Andover (often styled by Everett LaRose) and see the world that does not fit into the plans of Harris.
See the world of make-your-own-mind-up - But be not afraid - The good Trad will not harm you.
It is there to set you free.
More subdued offerings reside inside the shop of Mr. Charlie Davidson if the colours of the catalogue cause your head to spin.
Remember though that this is a pure source, little touched by the Internet's boards of message.
It is a window into what the rest of the world gets up to while the Andoid forumites are all busy hunched over forumating.
Buy wisely, wear well.
I have no further message.
j.
Paul Stuart is indeed forgotten or unknown over there.
I was taken there in '85 (when I was taken round everywhere for the first time) & told it was "like Brooks, but different". I couldn't quite see it at the time & I still can't - I found/find the place much more sophisticated than Brooks and (if there are 'levels' in all this and not just different aesthetics) on a higher sartorial plane altogether.
I feel similar about the Andover.
P.S. and Andover are for the more advanced "Trad" dresser maybe? Start with Brooks/Press and then, if you wish, move up a notch.
... And The Andover's Shetlands are cheaper than Press and a 'better' product unless you want a lightweight layering item like Press are currently offering.
(Personally I have room for both styles of Shet.)
The 'cheapness' thing is (again) this whole playing at 'being a Trad' thing which ruins the discussion of the Ivy League style on the Net.
Such a curse to the rest of us...
Grow up "Trads"!
J.