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#1 2014-06-26 08:41:51
- Worried Man
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- From: Davebrubeckistan
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Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
^
Perhaps if the trousers were a little shorter with minimal to no break. I like that crease line down the leg to be unbroken for a clean look. I like the width, but the fact that the pants are puddling around the ankle makes them look a little baggy and messy. But, as is usually the case, it's unfair to judge from a single picture. Plus, if they were a little shorter it would display his sleazy ankle tattoo a bit better. I thought only women got tattoos on their ankles.
"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955
#3 2014-06-26 10:33:44
- Worried Man
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
That's funny you mention "a scalino" or a step hem. I actually had a dream last night that I was at the tailor getting some wool trousers altered. We were both fretting over the hem and we settled on a step hem.
I do like the width of that guy's pants.
"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955
#4 2014-06-26 11:07:54
- Bop
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
You can't step a turn-up though.
#5 2014-06-26 11:25:13
- Worried Man
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
But you can step on a turnip.
"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955
#8 2014-06-26 22:20:29
- Bop
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
I was told it was a no-no at the suit shop. Although I don't recall anyone asking for it. All I can find is an old AAAC thread on it to check my understanding by. They discuss a Guardsman slant at the end so it appears you could be quite right FXHY
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?58172-Slanted-cuffs
#10 2014-06-27 08:32:35
- carpu65
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
Exactly!
Last edited by carpu65 (2014-06-27 08:32:56)
#11 2014-06-27 08:38:06
- Worried Man
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
Personally, I'd abstain from doing that to cuffed trousers, but I think it looks good without cuffs. I've just always associated the step hem with suit pants and more formal attire.
"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955
#14 2014-06-28 00:01:31
- fxh
- Big Down Under.
- From: Melbourne
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
1 Pin the hem to the appropriate length.
2 Even the hem by ensuring the pins are straight from the center to the front and from the center to the back. For most slacks, the front is slightly shorter than the back.
3 Press the measured hem using a pressing cloth. Silk organza makes a good pressing cloth but other commercial and homemade versions also work well.
4 Turn the pants inside out and mark the amount of excess material that needs to be cut off. Because military hems break over the "instep" and slant from front to back, the fabric will not turn up evenly all the way around. If the angle is less than ½ inch you can just let out the side seams to make the hem even. For larger angles, make a slit in the center front hem to get the fabric to go straight.
5 Slip a piece of old fabric or a paper towel under the slit and spray it with an anti-fray solution to prevent it from fraying.
6 Start sewing the hem. Start at the slit and sew all away around until you reach the other side of the slit. If your hem was less than ½ inch and you didn't make a slit you can start sewing at the side seams and work your way around. The new hem should resemble the original.
#18 2014-06-28 01:52:02
- fxh
- Big Down Under.
- From: Melbourne
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
I shifted this over here from the Pitti thread as I thought it deserved a bit of discussion.
Formby, Buffy??
#19 2014-06-28 06:57:08
- formby
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin
Souvent me Souvient
#20 2014-06-28 08:01:31
- Worried Man
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
Well I guess I've never actually seen a step hem. You mention it was a Mod technique, but when and where has it usually been utilized outside of that? Is it a military thing?
"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955
#21 2014-06-28 08:29:17
- Bop
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
It's like the trouser hem equivalent of a mullet
#22 2014-06-28 08:52:11
- Worried Man
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
^
HAHA. "Y'all look. I like ma hair so much, I got Tammy to do the same thang to ma paints. Ain't that cool?"
"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955
#23 2014-06-28 10:52:58
- formby
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Re: Slanted, Military, Guardsmen Trouser Hem/cuff
Mod tailoring employs several features outside what is considered the 'norm'.
That is part of its charm...
Some things I like, others I don't...
"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin
Souvent me Souvient