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#26 2015-07-06 14:25:16

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

Some people have different tastes the worse thing to do would be to transcribe an idea everyone should be the same... Saying that extremes of taste don't bring about balance or a visual 'umami' that most people can recognize if they're open to these things

Some people like curves some people like angles and structure..depends on what they're after as inviduals for me a design should have a balance of both... Although I lean to curves

Also the idea that everything has to stand out is quite an ignorant one dullness invites excitement to be added..not everything can attention seeking in an outfit..saying that i dont think I like that cloth much either...but that's because I find blue a pit to cold to be put with a mid/dark grey but that's just my feeling on it..

in terms of combinations its important we have juxtaposition and that can include dull.. The importance of dullness and neutrality is the most difficult part of design to appricate

In no way are those lapels too narrow...theyre just narrow notice the distance they sit well on the golden mean..you could flip them so them.mean was reversed and they'd still be in proportion.. Again a matter of taste..narrow can be in proportion as so can be wide..its up to you what you like..

Soft tailoring to me reflects an the intrinsic appeal of curves I have.. It's no more than a preference if the proportions are correct they're correct if you play with that perfection becomes character.. And that's charming too..just ask the french

 

#27 2015-07-06 14:58:11

formby1
Member
From: Hauteur Extraordinaire
Posts: 1039

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits


"Dressing, like painting, should have a residual stability, plus punctuation and surprise." - Richard Merkin

Souvent me Souvient

 

#28 2015-07-06 15:11:12

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

"The importance of dullness is the most difficult part of design to appricate"

You got that right.

Try H&M, you'll find something just as pleasing and you'll save yourself 200 sniffs.

I'd love to know whats "hand finished" on it.

Love this, hate RLP. You Ivy cats are one jar of messed up cookies.


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#29 2015-07-06 15:28:12

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

Last edited by Yuca (2015-07-06 15:29:15)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#30 2015-07-06 15:36:58

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#31 2015-07-06 15:45:14

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

If old fashioned, shapeless and dull is your bag I can see why you'd love it. It ticks all the boxes. To bad this model has sold out really.

Some just as dull cloths still available in the same olde worlde style you love though. The cloth was woven on a hand loom by an 8 year old boy dressed in Victorian clothing as well and sew together by his mother under candle light, to keep the overheads down. So its a winner all round for you Yuca  and all those that long for days gone by.


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#32 2015-07-06 15:54:38

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

I didn't realise that model has sold out already - seems like you know more about it than I do, but thanks for the background. The authentic production methods certainly excite me.

Btw old-fashioned is irrelevant to me rather than appealing. Dull? I'm ambivalent towards dull. Shapeless? Is it even possible to be shapeless? My earlier point was: do you and/or Forms consider most old school ivy jackets shapeless or just this attempt at a repro?


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#33 2015-07-06 21:30:48

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

Ignore me, I just don't like sack jackets much. The cloths are woeful though.


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#34 2015-07-07 00:08:43

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

Fair enough. I'm not disputing your and Forms' opinions so much as trying to understand them and place them in context.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#35 2015-07-07 00:46:17

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

Describing something as dull in a completely negative way is redundant... Rice is pretty dull but it can make up as part of an exciting meal... You just have to understand things not only in their isolation bit also as part of a whole...saying that..colourwise this jacket doesn't work for me because simply they're not my palette

The problem with more constructed styles is the lack of naturlism about them..I hear what you're saying that soft style can have shape but clearly that comes from the wearer you loose the hourglass shape with ivy but you can still loose bagginess round the waist it just gives a less bodied look. It actually gives more of an X shape. And here lies the beauty of it..a round soft shoulder going into a near enough straight drop..that's what its about..a balance of curve and straight line.

The key to success of this type of jacket in an outfit though is how it sits with the trousers..all the negative aspects of something allow for pairing with a counter balance...and there fore a better creation of flux in the outfit..difficult or boring tatses can give the most exciting out comes when balanced correctly.

Last edited by Bop (2015-07-07 00:53:09)

 

#36 2015-07-07 01:02:11

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

I think ultimately what it comes down to is Yuca and I are just better people.

 

#37 2015-07-07 09:12:08

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#38 2015-07-07 10:36:45

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

Exactly... I'm glad youve come round to my point of view..

 

#39 2015-07-07 10:40:21

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

The afro wig is essential of course..

 

#40 2015-07-07 10:45:39

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

Not wishing to wade into the debate, but silhouette issues aside, the cloth does seem a tad bit too boring for my liking, I expected something a bit more rare. Ivy League style for today....that's the conundrum I suppose, how to maintain the traditional and yet be at the sartorial zeitgeist of the time.

I would like to see a dark navy blazer - that would be a good calling card to say they have arrived!


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#41 2015-07-07 10:48:46

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

There is one I think Hep..

 

#42 2015-07-07 10:51:41

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#43 2015-07-07 10:52:43

4F Hepcat
THE Cat
Posts: 14333

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits


Vibe-Rations in Spectra-Sonic-Sound

 

#44 2015-07-07 10:54:29

Bop
Member
Posts: 7661

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits

Annoyingly I think its only on the FB page and I can't link to it..

 

#45 2015-07-07 11:06:08

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#46 2015-07-07 11:22:19

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: The US love of bespoke British suits


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

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