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I remember seeing this topic discussed elsewhere, developing into such heated debates you would thought catastrophic climatic changes, famine, or the cure to cancer are at stake.
The most common argument against this practice is that those leaving the cuff closure undone want to show off the custom pedigree of their jackets, a point that becomes weaker in a market where RTW with working buttons is readily available. Well, I would agree it is fairly pointless if you have a poorly made, ill-fitting jacket, bespoke or otherwise. But why the prejudices?
I occasionally do leave the last cuff button undone on my sport jackets when the mood is casual. I like the look. I don't do it to underscore the pedigree of my jackets. That speaks for itself because of far more important aspects, like fabric, cut, and fit.
I dont do it for business suits. I dont have a problem with it done by others if the suit is nicely made. I would have a negative reaction to an obviously ready made suit that had had those added on as a feature under the trying-way-too-hard category.
For odd jackets, it doesnt bother me as much because most men dont get odd jackets made and deshabille is more of an elegant comfortable look. Also for the sort of nightlife Hip style when it's more about money than pedigree, leaving a jacket button undone can be a part of the look.
If you want to impress your colleagues in the cancer research lab with your bespoke coats, Cruz, by undoing sleeve buttons, but don't want it to look intentional, keep the bottom-most button fastened but undo the second and/or third button(s). This achieves the same desired effect, but makes it appear like you really accidentally left the buttons undone. Now, I must return to my own work solving global warming.
often it looks like their RTW sewn-on button fell off.
I don't like it.
Especially egregious are those who leave two buttons undone.
You can't even undo my cuff buttons.
I don't like the look, but feel that Cruz Diez gets to do what he wants.
It's obviously one of those insider codes. The bespoke club. A sartorial vanity plate. That being said, if any of my cuff buttons functions I would rock them with at least two undone, all the time. I know on alot of Paul Smith jackets the last button is functioning while the others are not, and it has occured to me that the only reason to put this feature on would be for the wearer to undo it.
I do it.
It's tacky, but I still do it.
Zara now makes their coats with the bottom cuff button sewn shut and flapping over the button to give the "one button undone effect" (wtf?), but I still do it.
I can't help it.
I still think it looks slick.
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