Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-10-25 11:42:16)
It's very difficult commenting from a photograph because so many distortions creep in. The way you stand, the lighting, the lens, and way the picture are taken can all conspire to produce apparent faults where there actually are none. In addition a new suit needs time to settle to your body and that may change apparent flaws. That said, on with the show...
The main thing that strikes me is the front quarters and here I don't know what effect your tailor was after and how he wanted the quarters to look. It seems to me that they cross so you might have a balance problem although the waist is pretty clean. The chest looks clean although it looks like there is a slight ripple under the righthand lapel just below your collarbone. Both of these points could be caused by photographic distortions though so have a look in a mirror yourself.
There is a pull at the top button. That could either be because the suit needs to settle, the jacket is to tight, or the balance again. Try unbuttoning your jacket and seeing how it behaves (does it swing apart or cross). The collar and lapels are sitting nicely and I wouldn't like to comment on the sleeves without a side view other than to say that the righthand sleeve seems to be a bit shorter than the left.
Stylistically (this is the bit you should disregard...) I would like the button a bit lower and a more waist suppression but that is all personal taste and a lot of people would disagree.
Bear in mind I am not a tailor and so, like most people, my statements may well be completely wrong. Talk to your tailor, he should be happy to explain things to you. You never get a good review on message boards because everyone picks at the faults they (rightly or wrongly) perceive.
I think Jeeves got it right. On a well-balanced jacket, the front quarters lie securely against the front part of your hips. This condition is more clearly seen on a patterned cloth, because the patterns on both quarters below the buttoning point end up forming a slight angle pointing upwards. On your jacket the pattern is doing exactly the opposite. Ask your tailor if undoing the shoulders to let out more cloth on the front, toward the neck (I believe some tailors call this "crooking") would both correct the balancing issue and lower the buttoning point closer to the natural waist as Jeeves recommends.
Edit: Ultimately the "right" sleeve length depends on personal preference but I agree with Marc that they should be longer. But maybe I'm biased because I prefer mine on the longish side of things and with little shirt cuff showing.
Last edited by Cruz Diez (2007-10-25 17:39:41)
The others have far more knowledge of bespoke than I.
I do, however, think your tie is a little wide, given the lapels. But it goes nicely.
zippers are very nouveau riche.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-10-26 09:32:08)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2007-10-26 10:07:47)
OK, nothing else but considered comments about the man's suit.
Thank you.
It looks like Montgomery stood up straighter for the picture than for the tailor.
I think we need a side view, back view, and a youtube video of you walking down the street...