I am Atam but as many knows me as "Adam" from Paris Custom Shirts. I often read what is posted about Paris Custom Shirts on style forums. I would surely like to answer each question personally but my need to attend to my business makes that impossible . I enjoyed the last article Film Noir Buff wrote about us and enjoyed collaborating with him on it . It may interest readers to know that we have some other exciting projects planned which may likewise excite the readers of this forum.
If anyone has any questions for us,please refer them to either me or FNB, but bear in mind it may be FNB answering for me if I haven't got the time to set my thoughts to paper.
FNB, Good luck to you in all of this ,I am sure your readers will be truely informed about style.
Last edited by mr.picasso (2006-03-12 19:25:49)
Yes, it is 3 shirts for the first order but we first make a sample shirt .
Pity l aren't able to travel abroad (due to health reasons). These Paris shirts have got my curiosity something fierce.
Hi,
I have a question.
How long does it take from the first visit until a final shirt gets made?
Hi Maximus,
From start to final order it is about 3 weeks.
Exquisite shirts Atam. The article was very informative. You must make so many nice shirts you cannot pick any favorites or are there some things you like to make better than others?
Good luck
I like very much the classic pattterns and colors due to the fact the shirt is an investment in your wardrobe .
When the shirts are taken care of the right way, it can last you a very long time .
We have some clients whose shirts are 12-20 years old, as a matter of fact we have one customer that only changes his collars and cuffs "guess how many shirts he has ", over 600 shirts and over 80 of his shirts are from the 1960's.
The shirts should never be starched first of all, if you wish to have stiff collars or cuffs request them to be made when you are ordering your shirts. Shirt should be hand ironed not with a steam press or a steam form like many local cleaners use. Pay a little more for the cleaning of your shirts and they will last a very long time. If you owned a Rolls -Royce would you have the car washed in a local car wash or would you have it hand detailed. The shirt is the same thing you invest $250 - $500 per shirt you should have it properly cleaned by someone that knows how to care for your shirts .
One day a new customer asked me if he should have his shirts cleaned after he wears the shirt two or three times, please do not do that you are not saving money you are damaging your shirts.
by boston standards $7.00 is a lot of $. Before you discovered the shirtmaker of lights what other experiences did you have. Had you visited Geneva in the same building.
The customers shirt you saw the other day he wanted the collar replaced because he had his shirt cleaned by a local cleaner, they pressed it with a steam press, if it was hand ironed it would have not happened. The local cleaners they have people working at min wage and they need to do volume, I do not blame them.
I agree. I think most highly of father & son and admire their work.
Raphael likes Paris.
Marc
Atam, after Donald Drapkin's soon-to-be ex-wife takes him to the cleaners, I hope he still has enough dough to buy shirts from you His 23-bathroom house with the indoor bowling alley is still on the market for $40 million if anyone has spare change.
http://www.northjersey.com/page.php?qstr=eXJpcnk3ZjczN2Y3dnFlZUVFeXkyMzgmZmdiZWw3Zjd2cWVlRUV5eTY2NjcwNzcmeXJpcnk3ZjcxN2Y3dnFlZUVFeXky
Marc
What makes you believe that D.Drapkin is my client?
Dynamite article. We need more photos of your shirts though.
Keep it all coming.
More Pictures coming soon .
Coming soon "The Finest Italian Shirt Fabics " that I have seen in many years with colors and patterns that will not make your selection easy. Will post pictures soon.
Mr. Picasso, I really look forward to your future posts about shirts and fabrics. In the meantime, I'd like to know your opinion on a couple of aspects to shirtmaking that seem to raise some misconceptions and controversy: hand sewing and split yokes.
Do you think hand stitching is desirable in shirts? Except for the occasional hand-sewn monogram, buttonholes on certain fabrics, and buttons, which may have some aesthetic or functional value, in my opinion hand-sewing is just a marketing gimmick that is detrimental to the durability of the shirt. Some people argue that hand-sewn sleeveheads lend a certain elasticity and comfort to the shirt; however, take for example a Borrelli shirt. The inlays around the armhole are closed by hand stitching, but the main seam is *still* machine sewn (and rather coarsely I should note), hence eliminating any benefits conferred by hand sewing, imaginary or otherwise. As I understand it, hand sewing is not a necessary condition for attaching an oversized sleevehead on a small armhole (Neapolitan style) that some people prefer for its added room and comfort.
Similarly, the split yoke is believed by many to be a critical feature of a bespoke shirt; an important indicator of quality, supposed to improve the fit of the shirts on certain anatomies. However, I've learned from Italian makers that the split yoke is merely a styling feature to align stripe patterns in arbitrary directions and to create "chevron" effects with such stripes, which, by the way, I don't find tasteful at all (tacky). Ultimately, any fit situation including peculiar shoulders can be conformed properly by a single-piece yoke. A quick look at the RTW market reveals that many mass-produced shirts are now being made with clean, pattern-matched and chevroned split yokes, seemingly just following a styling trend of the fashion of the day. In your opinion, is there any value added by the split yoke, other than aesthetic, provided it suits the customer's taste? Thanks!
Sorry Mr. Picasso, I have 1 more question. Do you recommend any particular detergent to keep the beauty of those fine Italian fabrics? Keep up the good work!