I had my third fitting for suit number 1 with Mr. Munday, in Paris this time. The suit looks good and only a couple of adjustments seem necessary: shortening the trouser legs (they seemed fine last time, but were too long this time; I like them JUST breaking on the shoe, not spreading at all)), equalizing the sleeves to show about 1/2 inch of shirt (the left sleeve was fine in that respect, the right one was too long). There also seemed to be a bit too much cloth (a wave sort of effect) on the left chest this time, the right side appearing perfect; this seems due to the innards of the chest (canvas being too short on that side???). All the other dimensions appear perfect (the "too much cloth" effect between the pleats of the trousers as of the last fitting has been fixed).
I was a bit worried last time about the shoulders being too broad, but without the visible white threads, this no longer appears to be the case. This just goes to show that I must trust the tailor’s eye, not mine. The fit is now very good visually, elegant even, and not in the least restrictive (I raised my arms to check). I suppose everything was taken apart and then put back together. The lining was present, but there were no buttons yet. It should be finished and ready when I go to London in early December.
I was wearing a 16-ounce DB today and noticed how much lighter the new suit feels, at 13 ounces!
I had the baste fitting for suit number 2: a light grey pick and pick from Lesser (ref 3901, I think), which of course at 12/13 oz. is even lighter in weight. This will be a very useful suit, both in terms of weight and colour, especially for the warmer months (in Western European terms, not in the muggy heat one gets on the East Coast or Midwest). In terms of cut, pockets, etc…, it will be exactly like the other one.
Looking ahead, I also checked some samples for a future order, in particular two Lesser cloths: a 13/14-ounce (29712 black or almost black with pinstripes about two centimetres apart) and a 16-ounce of the same colour but with the pinstripes only one centimetre apart (29680). The pinstripes are there, but not overwhelmingly so, if you see what I mean. I prefer the first one visually and will probably pick it, but wish it was as heavy as the other one. This will be a double breasted, just like the other two.
Finally, I learned that there are two cutters at Meyer and Mortimer: Mr. Lewis has been there for fifty years, having started at seventeen and Mr. Munday for thirteen years. I find this very comforting.
I hope the above is of interest. One again, please forgive my ignorance of the proper terminology.
Best regards,
Frog in Suit.