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  •  » Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

#1 2015-05-21 12:38:01

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7580

Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

(url=)http://putthison.com/post/119529225802/bringing-back-the-american-button-down-the-arrival(url/)

Interesting feature on Michael Spencer...... Bringing Back the American Button-Down.


�Careful with that axe Eugene.�

 

#2 2015-05-21 13:00:03

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

Very nice.  A bit cheaper than Mercer too, albeit with a vastly limited selection of fabrics.  Hopefully someone will purchase one and be able to offer up a review for us.  Don't look at me.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#3 2015-05-21 15:10:03

Oliver
Member
From: San Francisco
Posts: 6321

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

What's the difference between Brooks "traditional" and "classic" fits?

 

#4 2015-05-21 16:37:29

oxford cloth button down
Member
Posts: 1302

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

I think that it might be a typo and he meant to say "regular" fit. instead of "classic" fit. Just a guess.

 

#5 2015-05-21 16:45:01

captainpreppy
Member
Posts: 1536

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

 

#6 2015-05-21 16:53:33

oxford cloth button down
Member
Posts: 1302

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

Lined means that it has an interliner between the two pieces of cloth that make the collar.

 

#7 2015-05-21 16:57:07

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

You're right about the price on the basic oxford, Capt.

Lined indicates a layer or layers of fabric, usually cotton I believe, sandwiched between the outer shells of the collar.  It makes the collar a bit thicker and more or less stiff, depending on the thickness of the lining.  You can usually feel the lining if you pinch the collar and slowly pull the fabric apart.  You can sort of feel an extra layer inside.  On some white shirts you can actually see the lining if you hold it up to light.  The lining can also be fused, where it is actually attached to the collar.  So an unlined collar has no lining within the collar and therefore the collar is softer and floppier.  More Ivy if you will.  I try to stay away from fused linings, but I don't really mind a lined collar.

Last edited by Worried Man (2015-05-21 17:01:40)


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#8 2015-11-11 08:26:13

The Absintheist
Member
Posts: 189

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

I've just received my order of two shirts from Michael Spencer. Where to begin?

I went for unlined button-downs with third collar button, split yoke, locker loop, normal pocket and slim fit. Fit wise they're in the same league as BB's blue label slim fit, i.e. they afford some nice billow for people who are built less like Jack and more like the beanstalk. Shoulder width is in keeping with the rest. From what I can judge both shirts show some good craftsmanship, remains to be seen how they stand up to a few washes. The cloth isn't too far from your modern Makers shirts and I'm fine with that, never having known a vintage Makers. The stated delivery time must be on the cautious side, I received my shirts after three weeks rather than six.

Any questions?

 

#9 2015-11-11 09:09:18

Harpo
The Best In The West
From: West Wales
Posts: 3394

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

Collar roll, collar roll, always the collar roll!


Randy lower-class trifler

 

#10 2015-11-11 10:03:50

alkydrinker
Member
Posts: 77

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

I have two Michael Spencer shirts now. I've been meaning to take/post pics here as my first meaningful contribution on this forum.

The biggest draw for me: BUTTON FLAP POCKET.

Like Absintheist, I got unlined collars/cuffs and the slim fit, though didn't get some of the other features he did, like third collar button and locker loop. I was tempted, but worried about a "too many pieces of flare" effect smile

But yeah, the unlined collar is much more thin and less "beefy" feeling than, say, BB's current made-in-USA OCBD's, which are lined.

A little feature that I like is the inverse pleats at the sleeve. It's something a little different, but looks good. (For some reason I really dislike BB's signature shirring at the cuff).

This page is hard to find by navigating through the Michael Spencer home page, but I previously inquired about the measurements of their 3 fits, and in response, the owner posted the actual measurements:

http://www.michaelspencer.us/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/Fit-Specifications-Chart1.pdf

Based on the measurements I've used on custom shirts from Ratio, the Michael Spencer's measurements for my neck size didn't appear 100% perfect and I had a little anxiety about fit before ordering, however it turned out that my shirts do fit fantastic.

I ordered my first shirt when they were just getting started and I had two rounds of defects. First shirt I got the sleeves were way too short and the pocket flap had no button hole. Exchanged that and received a shirt with BB style shirring at the cuff (they use BB's same factory obviously), which I sent back and they replaced that with their signature reverse pleats. The owner was great through the process, responding to my emails within a matter of hours, and gave me a solid discount on my next shirt for the trouble. My second shirt came back perfect on the first try. I believe they have worked out all the kinks with the factory and I wouldn't expect any defects if you order from them...and the customer service is top notch.

If I can get some good pics of my shirts I'll try to post them.

Last edited by alkydrinker (2015-11-11 10:08:52)

 

#11 2015-11-11 10:33:31

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

Great info guys.  Of course pictures always offer a valuable exhibit.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#12 2015-11-11 14:12:42

The Absintheist
Member
Posts: 189

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

 

#13 2015-11-11 14:39:13

Worried Man
Member
From: Davebrubeckistan
Posts: 15988

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

Looks good.


"We close our sto' at a reasonable hour because we figure anybody who would want one of our suits has got time to stroll over here in the daytime." - VP of George Muse Clothing, Atlanta, 1955

 

#14 2015-11-11 14:41:37

Armchaired
Ivy I.V.
From: Old England
Posts: 7580

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

That's one mighty roll sir.


�Careful with that axe Eugene.�

 

#15 2015-11-12 01:48:36

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

I've said this before: so many people doing OCBDs, or have done them in recent years. Yet for all the other staples of the look (US-made traditional shoes, high rise trousers, sack jackets) it seems if there are 3 companies doing it that's a lot. I find it strange.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#16 2015-11-12 01:59:54

Sid Ford
Member
Posts: 637

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

I presume there has been no end of focus groups on the high rise trouser asking 'is it time to bring it back?' but always genuinely surprised and how hard it is to find a decent modern version.

Companies like M&S over here should have these as basic staples but their menswear is an absolute joke.
I'm convinced I could sort out their menswear department in a month and stop the MD having to appear on the Today programme every quarter defending the latest bad financial result.

 

#17 2015-11-12 02:14:44

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

That's part of it. However brands like Mercer, Fitzgeralds and probably Michael Spencer are not the type to resort to focus groups - they just see a (perceived) gap in the market for something they have a personal passion for, and try to resolve that.

I suppose getting shirts made is a hell of a lot easier than getting suits or shoes made, which is part of the reason for the above situation. Yet chinos are probably about as difficult to make as shirts - why don't we have loads of companies offering decent, US or European made chinos? True there are the likes of Bills and Jack Donnelly, but I'm not sure of the former and I know for sure the latter have a pathetically low rise. For real high rise chinos the options are very limited - maybe just O'Connell's, Press and Earls.

I suppose a lot of people get theirs made bespoke by old ladies.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#18 2015-11-12 03:55:46

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3281

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

If I could get the investment I would look to get trousers made, base on the various vintage pairs I own, from the boom era Levis Casuals and Sta Prest to the Graduate slacks with their 13" rise.

All of these could be made in a variety of fabrics - but is it too niche, whereas shirts are easier to sell and even the everyman who's not interested in the look would happily buy them?

 

#19 2015-11-12 04:05:15

Sid Ford
Member
Posts: 637

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

The amount of middle aged men dressed in trousers too skinny and too low for them is amazing.

"Build it and they will come."

 

#20 2015-11-12 04:19:04

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

^From personal experience trying to do trousers often requires a huge order to bring the final product in at a sensible price.
Hertling is potentially a supplier ( orders in tens rather the hundreds is possible) but relatively costly per pair.

A tapered/rebadged version of Earl Rays would come in (after added VAT and other import costs) at a reasonable £42 but a minimum order of 200 pairs ( approx 40 pairs in each waist sizes - 30,32,34,36,38 -).
A note on this, from my enquiries with Earl Ray/Gung Ho, a pattern and samples exist as someone in the USA has recently ordered exactly this from them, I couldn't get any more info on who ordered them tho' but my suspicion is it may be 'Unionmade' who had massive success with the regular Earl Ray chinos .


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#21 2015-11-12 04:29:40

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3281

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

 

#22 2015-11-12 04:50:43

Acton_Baby
Member
From: West London
Posts: 3848

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

^It's the amounts that put the breaks on for me T. 200 pair seem's a lot of trousers.
Lean Garments have a chino about to launch (with a 150 unit first run )for £55, so it may be doable.
Maybe a kickstarter type approach would work ?

I'm trying to contact the guy behind Yellow Rat Clothes, as he seems to be able to run a very niche and high quality product range and also keep prices out of 'nosebleed' territory.


"I have about 100 pairs of pyjamas. I like to see people dressed comfortably."
Hugh Hefner

 

#23 2015-11-12 04:57:46

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3281

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

Indeed, there has to be a way - if you could do a 100 unit run then it's doable, the other option as you say is a kick starter or similar, which I was going to suggest, but you would need a sale pair to photograph and fully detail - because once you have the committed parties it's plain sailing really. At that point you can look into other fabrics, then other cuts and styles because by then you have a following and audience anticipation.

 

#24 2015-11-12 05:00:56

Tommy
Member
Posts: 1753

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

I have said several times that I would be interested in a custom trouser order, in various threads. The problem for me is leg lengths, I need a 28 to get no break and even then, its sometimes a little too long on trousers that can't be washed. Plus I'm a 33 waist, and have muscular legs. I'm like a bald Tom Hardy if he didn't get to the gym quite enough? But the problem is as Tomiskinky say's is could we shift 200 units?

High waisted trousers have been on the edge's of fashion for a while,but haven't really broken through.

 

#25 2015-11-18 09:01:15

alkydrinker
Member
Posts: 77

Re: Michael Spencer..Bringing Back the American Button-Down ? Maybe more ?

 
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