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#1 2007-10-28 07:58:21

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

While thumbing through my old copy of Boyer's Eminently Suitable, I reread a chapter on sprezzatura, or the Italian term for nonchalance in everything. He also talks about this in relation to the OML, or Old Money Look. The OML has parts of what we on the MB's refer to as part Trad, part Preppie, part Sloanie, etc. It has to do with old, hand me down clothing, but very well made items that will endure to be handed down in the first place. Very anglo-trad in its influence. I can post some excerpts if you like.

How does everyone feel this look compares with the Trad, TNSIL, or Preppie/ Sloan that we often discuss, or is it simply renaming what we are already discussing? Do you feel there are items in the OML that would not be found elsewhere? Thanks.

 

#2 2007-10-28 11:13:14

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

More quotes would be useful. It's a bit nebulous, as described so far.
It's probably related to Terry's comments on "WASP" style.
Really rich people, wearing as they please, in an international style.

TV

 

#3 2007-10-28 14:07:58

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

Yes, I feel this is what separates the old money from the new money, or people pretending to have money.

A few quotes from Chapter 6, " The Art of Dressing"

"It is that slightly casual way of wearing a rumpled flannel suit, a shirt thats a tad frayed at the cuffs, or Dad's old Harris tweed jacket, altered to fit. Very expensive, but very old brogues are a touchstone."

"Sprezzatura encompasses that purposefully disordered style, that cultivated recklessness, that seeming unconcern of the man who turns up his jacket collar, the collar of that English custom made hacking jacket he wears with his ten year old faded khakis, and an old school tie for a belt."

"Mercedes station wagons and Lobb shoes are what we are talking about. The Old Money wardrobe is ancient tweed sports jackets (no ersatz leather patches, please!), an inherited- if possible- barathea tuxedo (wide grosgrain lapels and button fly), the mottled Burberry, dateless gray flannel suit, Granddad's old half-hunter, and ancient cap-toed oxfords. A hat that looks as though it had spent most of its life as an orphan in the rain is the epitome of panache."

"How much better than a spanking new suit, the OML advises, to have Dad's old sharkskin double breasted one altered a bit, recondition the ancient Peal brogues, and turn the collar on the eternal Brooks button down."


It also talks about connections to the Ivy League staples of underplayed elegance of the unpadded sack-cut suit, the saddle shoe, the buttondown collar, argyle socks, etc.  However, Boyer also warns against overdoing it. "Nonchalance is a slight tug on the sleeve, not a violent shake of the lapels." No GTH items here, and dont attempt to wear more than one eccentricity at a time. "A scarf, a pair of socks, or a hat that is slightly out of the ordinary will accomplish more than a pair of purple slacks or a mauve topcoat."

How true.

 

#4 2007-10-29 02:30:45

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

I liked that very much, Brother S. - Thanks.

That's got to be good for the Trads to read too.

Again, Thanks -

j.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#5 2007-10-29 05:06:43

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

I see some elements of trad, with some new england thrift thrown in for good measure. Its not just the clothes, but how you wear them that counts. Much more Anglo influence than the trads will admit, which is fine with me.

 

#6 2007-10-29 13:33:21

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

Looks like wisdom that can be employed across the board.  If the stuff's well made, it lasts.  If the style is timeless, or relatively so, it endures.  If one doesn't mind the not out-of-the-box look, one wears it.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#7 2007-10-29 13:35:21

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

 

#8 2007-10-29 14:09:51

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

The odd thing about that site is that it doesn't seem to allow any mention of drinking.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#9 2007-10-30 06:19:03

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

 

#10 2007-10-30 06:49:43

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#11 2007-10-30 07:25:48

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

 

#12 2007-10-30 09:40:19

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#13 2007-10-30 11:20:43

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#14 2007-10-30 11:50:27

Jack_The_Lad
Member
Posts: 730

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.


"I like a bit of a cavort..."

 

#15 2007-10-30 12:04:43

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

 

#16 2007-10-30 12:12:52

Cheeky Monkey
Member
Posts: 1273

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.


... ... ...

 

#17 2007-10-30 12:27:37

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

^ We have often thought of getting into porn, as a career.
Originally, we were thinking about plain girls, etc. Starring one of our furry friends, as the star.
But perhaps there is a market for Preppy Hardcore Sluts, or something equally as culturally significant.

(Let's get the Musies riled up! Women are property, not sex toys!)

TV

 

#18 2007-10-30 18:23:23

eg
Member
From: Burlington, ON
Posts: 1499

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

 

#19 2007-11-01 12:07:04

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

 

#20 2008-05-18 06:37:30

shuman
Member
Posts: 184

Re: G. Bruce Boyer, sprezzatura, and the OML.

I just have to say that I love GBB's style as depicted on several blog entries on the Satrorialist. As a bald man, I appreciate his style choices and how they seem to avoid overly bold colors or contrast. I have been wondering if bold statements should be avoided as they may draw attention to my lack of folicles. I also enjoy his unique style. He is not just stuck in one camp or the other. Just my .02. Thanks for letting me rant...

 

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