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#1 2017-12-30 08:02:08

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Made to measure by independent shops.

The rise and rise of menswear shops offering made to measure seems to be here to stay. Here in Oslo I used a shop called Cavour for a pair of trousers which have turned out great. Really happy with them. I'm trying them for a coat in a 280gm loro piana cotton. Products are made in Italy in various areas.

I used another store here a while ago and wasn't so pleased with the outcome.

Anyone else tried any of these new type of menswear store?


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#2 2017-12-30 11:49:36

Babbling Brooks
Member
Posts: 683

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

We used to do this at my old shop, all I would say is be careful who is doing the measuring


You can play a shoestring if you're sincere.

 

#3 2018-02-17 10:02:28

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

I've gone for it! Light brown H&S cotton job. Already got a pair of strides done there that have turned out great so have ordered a suit this afternoon.

The guy doing the measuring used to do it for Canali MTM service. Quite impressed with what the store offered with regards to what can be altered from the try on model. Six weeks for the suit to be finished. Fingers crossed.


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#4 2018-02-17 11:34:56

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

Glad to hear you had a good experience, GW!

I'll be updating this thread at the end of the summer or early fall, as I'll be buying a couple MTM suits sometime in August or September... I've definitely noticed more of these places springing up. There was some talk a while ago on TI about Proper Cloth here in NYC, which does shirts and looks very good from the process on their website, but I don't know how their actual product is.


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#5 2018-02-17 13:13:16

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

I get Proper Cloth's newsletters. Never tried them though.

These stores seem the way forward. The guy that owns the shop had a very open chat with me...He said they were making small alterations to last seasons coats and suits, things like button stance and extending the shoulder line. The guy incharge of the MTM was really on the ball, like I say he did the same job for Canali, there was some other brand he mentioned as well but thats slipped my mind. March 14/15th they have an Attolini trunk show which I'll be at but doubt I'll make an order. I did try on a coat which was really nice and great across the shoulders. My trouble is I'm 6'5" so I really need a MTM. Though a Canali 50l 7drop is a good fit on me. Attolini MTM starts at 40 000nkr, think that about $6000ish so thats out the question for me. Maybe when my ship comes in. Next time I'm in the shop I'll take some pictures of their own range. Some really great stuff.


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#6 2018-02-17 13:29:25

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#7 2018-04-22 03:46:50

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

I went to collect the suit yesterday. When it came out the back of the shop on the hanger it looked wonderful. Great lapels and notching on the coat. Trousers were bang on, the coat on the other hand was a big fat fail. Far too tight across the waist and short in the sleeve. Very disappointing. The coat measured 47 across the waist but the measurement taken was a larger but still a sexy framed 51. So the fault lays with the factory production. Sleeve was 0.5cm short, which could have been altered at the shop without losing balance between the bottom button and cuff. However, the sleeve would still have been shorter than I'd have liked which I did say when being measured but some some reason I let the measurer convince me otherwise. I think we both knew I was correct when I tried the coat on. Pictures have been taken of the measuring tape across the waist of the coat and will be sent to the makers. I've be told a new coat will be made to the correct waist measurement with an added 3cm on sleeve length. Yes, it was that short even without the lost 0.5cm. I wanted the suit for a jolly up early in June and have been assured I'll get the replacement in time and will get a phone call Monday evening to confirm date.

On the plus side the back was lovely and clean, shoulders were excellent, I had wondered how the shoulders would work out as I have a drop shoulder and the shoulders were extended from the try on model and brought forward. This seemed quite a complex operation during measuring but worked out bang on. The cloth was great made up and notching along the patch pockets, lapels, "little boat" chest pocket looks great. I'm very happy with the 3/2 roll and lapel proportion. Trousers were spot on, nice taper and fit. I had a pair already made by them which I was happy with and wore for measuring for the suit and had a sight alteration made to the front rise which has got the fit totally perfect.

Overall of course I'm disappointed, hopefully the new coat comes back correctly made and the story will have a happy ending.

Last edited by Goodyear welt (2018-04-22 03:49:06)


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#8 2018-08-30 12:16:41

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#9 2018-08-30 18:16:57

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

Glad you got it all sorted out, hard to tell everything in those pics but it looks like it fits you well, the close-up pic is nice... These places do love pick-stitching...

Nice color too. Great success!


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#10 2018-08-31 06:49:10

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

Thanks BB, pick stitching is an extra but I figured with it being a flat texture that would add some interest.


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

#11 2018-08-31 07:29:10

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

The suit looks good GW - but that tie isn't mod.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#12 2018-08-31 10:39:28

Goodyear welt
Ivyist At Large
Posts: 3089

Re: Made to measure by independent shops.

I'm trying to move away from the banal legitimacy of the herd brother Yuca.


Rocking traditional, current and classic Italian Ivy since 2011.

 

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