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#1 2018-08-13 03:35:44

SanchoPanza
Member
Posts: 1098

Tie width

Is there any rules to go by when you purchase ties? I usually go with 3", but I have found some nicer ones now that is 3.25" and even 3.50". Could I pull it off or will I look like a movie mobster from the '20s?

 

#2 2018-08-13 05:51:56

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: Tie width

The rule is that the tie width needs to match the lapel width of whatever jacket you pair it with. To do that of course you need to know the correct way to measure lapel width. There's no reason why you can't do it the other way round i.e. match the jacket to go with a tie you particularly want to wear - the important thing is that the tie width and lapel width are more are less equal (I'm sure 1/4" difference between the 2 doesn't matter).

If you're wearing a tie with no jacket then wear whatever the hell width you like. As for 3.5" being too much - not at all, it's a nice width.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#3 2018-08-13 23:11:45

chatsworth osborne jr.
Member
Posts: 738

Re: Tie width

Width at widest point can be deceiving depending on shape as the degree of taper can vary.  It's the width from the knot to the chest that is what visually matters.  The bulk of my ties are around 3-1/4" but some are substantial with minimal taper and present more widely, in almost a 70's look, while others angle in for a skinny knot.
There's a bit of leeway before the tie/lapel balance become an issue, and I'd think that most here would not have a problem spotting it when it happens.

 

#4 2018-08-14 10:19:14

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Tie width

Disclaimer: I don't do the Boom Years Ivy thing, I love to look at it in the old ads etc. but I much prefer the traditional look of the 1970s-1980s, so I'm a bit more comfortable with wider ties than someone who is oriented more towards Take Ivy rather than the OPH.

My slimmest ties are 3", and my widest tie is a J. Press paisley that comes in at 4 1/4". Most of my ties are between 3.5" and 4". Most of my lapels clock in between 3.5" and 4", with only one (on a B2 University Shop blazer) coming in at more than 4". Therefore, I have trouble pulling off a 3" tie but no real problems with ties at 4" or a little wider. I prefer 3.5" ties for purely aesthetic reasons, but as I buy all my ties for about $5 used, I buy based on colors and patterns and don't concern myself too much with width - also because I know the makers I like, Brooks Brothers/Rooster/J. Press/Lands End/Jos A. Bank/etc., weren't making crazy wide ties anyway.

You aren't going to look like a movie mobster wearing a 3.5" tie, this was the classic width for lapels and ties at Brooks.


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#5 2018-08-14 11:37:39

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: Tie width

Apart from a few old work related ties that I never wear but hold on to for sentimental reasons, I've gradually winnowed out my tie collection until I only have 3.25" widths. I have got a navy blue silk tie with red fleur-de-lys on it which I keep because Mrs Woof bought it for me in Italy, I like the colour and pattern but it's 3.5" so consequently it seems voluminous to me and stays in the wardrobe. That 0.25" difference just smacks me in the eye.

If you go in a Brooks store and pick out their enduring classics like the #stripes, rep stripes and foulards you will find that they are nearly always 3.25".

Knit ties are a different animal and 2" & 2.5" seem to be the standard widths. The lack of width compared to my 3.25" gold standard for conventional ties doesn't seem to matter. But all mine are 2.5" as 2" puts me in mind of the office junior. I've got two or three vintage Rooster Rufflerknits in earthy winter tones, that are worn sometimes with tweed and tattershalls in the depth of winter, but they come in at a vast 2.75" and I never feel 100% happy I tell ya.

I have been guilty of mindlessly buying vintage ties on eBay/Etsy before now. You just end up with too much choice and gravitate to the same dozen or so all the time because you know they work. If you don't discipline yourself to switch them around some never see the light of day. Stay tuned because in 3 or 4 years time I'll probably be retired and eventually flog 90% of them.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#6 2018-08-14 13:12:53

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Tie width

not counting narrow knit ties with square ends, of which I have a few (I liked the wool ones best, better than silk, cotton, etc.), nearly all my ties are 3 to 3.25 inches wide at their widest point, I might have one or two that are 2.75 but that's it ......

I bought almost all of them myself years ago, new, at Press/Brooks/Andover, long before eBay and the internet, I needed the ties for work .......

all are from England or the USA

still have the vast majority of them, though naturally there have been a few casualties over the past four decades ... lunchtime casualties ... never lost an all-time fave though

I'm from the OPH generation '78-'82, and to my eye narrow ties are either a bit '50s/'60s uptight or self-consciously late '70 New Wave, either way the skinny tie is not what I have worn

so, for regular neckties, 3 to 3¼ inches, and for square-end knit ties 2 to 2¼ inches

measured four just now, a navy/red Press animal kingdom collection emblematic from the '87 era (3.1"), a striped Brooks Brothers Makers #2 rep woven in England (3"), a Press wool/mohair striped knit square-end (2"), and an English-made wool knit square-end (2¼ ") 

3½ inches is a bit on the wide side, do not exceed it


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#7 2018-08-14 13:36:25

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Tie width


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#8 2018-08-14 13:46:28

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Tie width

what is the proper width for The Clarney?


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#9 2018-08-14 13:50:47

stanshall
Member
From: Gilligan's Island
Posts: 12991

Re: Tie width


"bow wow wow yippie yo yippie yay"

 

#10 2018-08-14 14:09:50

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Tie width


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#11 2018-08-14 14:11:54

Berkeley_Breathes
Member
From: Crabapple Cove, ME
Posts: 4519

Re: Tie width


"The only comment a gentleman’s outfit should generate is that he is properly dressed for the occasion" - Calvin Trillin

 

#12 2022-06-30 01:39:12

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: Tie width

Skinny ties I do not like, even on Evans and chums photographed at the Village Vanguard circa 1961. 
Ties once sold (possibly now Sold Out) at Chiltern Street were often too colourful for my simple tastes. 
I parted with the majority of my 'collection' back in early 2012.
Now - stone me - finding anything at the right width, made of silk, wool, cotton, in England, Italy, the USA is proving painful.
Any names I should be looking for?

 

#13 2022-07-04 03:23:22

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Tie width

3-1/4??  my favorite


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

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