Film Noir Buff recently suggested to me that I consider the type of man wearing a tie and how gentlemen perceive others around them in relationship to the tie design process.
Then he gave me an elusive goal: "...ties that would prove somewhat exclusive and handsome enough for a broader popularity"
So I am asking for design ideas with the above in mind.
First some random thoughts of my own.
In the past I quite simply designed silks that I liked. Noina my wife helped with the technical aspects of weaving the silk but in the end the ideas were mine. From time to time we get great suggestions and if I feel that I would enjoy wearing the designs then we can use the new designs or in the case of Atkinsons Irish poplin a new fabric.
Mostly I wear classic ties so that is reflected in our silks. Our Thai silks are off the beaten path for the western eye but still they are traditional designs - from Thailand.
For 2008 I currently have in various stages of progress many new Thai and English silks, that will be a continuation of what we currently are doing.
Personally I tend to not be concerned with what others think about the ties that I wear, but I am aware that if you are going to a serious meeting or job interview you do not want to stand out too much.
I will even say that I wear what makes me feel good rather than be concerned about coordination with my clothes. But I like to wear solid grenadines and traditional stripes which tend to work well with most clothes.
With all that said should we go off in some new directions?
I suppose you should think of silk weight but also linings. i have noticed that some ties I think will knot nicely end up limp because the lining is not there. Made by hand is obvious. If you've read my recent article http://www.filmnoirbuff.com/article/a-nations-standards-part-2, you will see that Vanners speaks of "Scroop" and i like that scrunchy-crunchy quality to the silk myself.
You must think of colors also. What groupings of colors and what sort of tints, shades etc?
You must think of niche and of target market. You need to reference what other tie makers or shops are doing but you cannot obviously copy them. Also the target market. What sort of person are we talking about? And what sort of volume do you expect to or need to do? The less you need to move, the more original the design can be.
One type of tie you don't see too much of are the patterned grenadines which either had a dot or foulard(flower) design woven into them or had the self weave set up to make it look like a paisley or other pattern in the tie fabric. Very rich, very smart. I have a few examples from Sulka I can post photos of at some point.
I would like to hear a variety of contributions and opinions.
Film Noir Buff,
I enjoyed reading your article that you linked to.
I would love to see photos of the patterned grenadines. Are they true grenadines or something similar?
Silk weight: I do not think about this in terms of an overall identity for Sam Hober because we are across the board in this area. Instead I think about in general what interlining goes best with a certain silk; and then we customize for special requests.
Wool interlinings are available in a number of grades. Typically the top Italian and English tie makers will use pure Italian combed wool. We have wool specially woven for us in Italy that works beautifully in our ties. We also have a variety of weights and textures of wool so we can mix up a recipe that will fit our clients needs.
Silk texture: Again we go with a wide variety of textures and weaves, it just depends what we want to accomplish. For example when you use a heavy 350 warp silk it will not drape as well as a 250 warp silk, and our grenadine weave silk has less warp yarns per inch but the drape and ability to customize the knot is perfect - as a trade-off the silk is more delicate.
Colors: In the past we wove silk with lots of non-western colors and a small niche of gentlemen loved the ties. then we gently moved towards a more western color selection. We could probably be much more profitable if we stayed with the top half dozen colors but it would not be as much fun.
Target market: One group is those gentlemen who love beautifully crafted bespoke ties made as they like them. These gentlemen usually like the classic weaves, fabrics, patterns and colors. We are currently set up to need very low minimum silk runs so we can do almost anything we like. Because we mostly use classic silks we have no need to move silks/ties at all.
Another group is the sartorially adventurous who love unusual silks like our handwoven Thai silks. We can weave and from time to do as little as 3 or 4 yards of a design with Thai silk. Although most of the Thai silk that we weave ends up as pocket squares.
In the end we do not follow fashion as many of the name brand tie makers do and rely primarily on our construction skills and friendly service.
Any and all suggestions are welcome.
First of all, I want to say that the Columbia tie from your collegiate series that you made me is a masterpiece. I recently wore this to an alumni event and several people complimented me on it. I was actually just contemplating my next purchase. I really like the Trad series of ties. Really classic.
One of my favorite and most sartorially adventurous ties is a Zegna Twin, which has two wide ends and can be tied either way to show either a striped tie or a coordinating solid. Women in particular love this tie and it always gets a lot of compliments. The problem is they're very hard to find. Zegna may even have discontinued them at this point. Would you consider offering something like that?
Last edited by Twin Six (2007-12-10 02:39:14)
Last edited by Sam Hober (2007-12-10 09:29:20)
That Bown bespoke guy had a tie like that from Interno 8 which used o be quite Hip but was bought out and isnt as interesting. I was looking for one of these myself.
http://www.bownsbespoke.com/interno8.htm
Last edited by David (2007-12-11 01:52:03)
I agree with Cantabrigian. Also, I would be interested to see something like a (if I can describe this...), very understated paisley. Think of a grenadine with a paisley pattern woven in it - if that makes any sense.
I'd be very interested in some woven Macclesfield style offerings that really get the parquet effect. Navy/silver or burgundy/silver would be fantastic.
The latest thought on the 'Long Scarf' is that it was maybe some kind of 'stock'.
I wonder if this place would interest forum members:
http://www.macclesfield.silk.museum/visit-our-museums/pattern-archive.htm
Last edited by David (2007-12-12 02:33:11)
Gentlemen,
Thank you for the suggestions.
Subtle elegance with perhaps some updated colors and weaves seems to be the general consensus.
Which is good for me as that is what I like to do - smiling.
David,
I love the museum link, thank you sir. With small babies around I will not be visiting anytime soon but maybe I will place some orders with the museum bookshop.
I second Cantabrigians choice of a subtle houndstooth.
I would rather see a selection of ties that is hard to find other places. Having said that, it is hard to design ties for a market. Which is why something like an Edward the VIII range or a range from movies from the 30s to the 60s might be interesting.