Is it acceptable? Nice even? Such is the fetish these days for chambray, an unpretentious cloth much valued for its softness and hard-wearing qualities, that when I saw Mercer offering a grey version I unthinkingly sent off an order. This was many years ago and I've hardly worn it. It's grey. It looks drab and flat against the skin. I also recently bought a red chambray b/d from Jakes - it's a lovely vivid sorbet kind of shade, not sure how it will incorporate into the rest of the wardrobe but I'm thinking maybe with a navy cord suit and a black knit tie, desert boots on feet perhaps..? Blue chambray I wear all the time and have a silly number of them. So if anyone wants to buy a Mercer grey chambray b/d in 17.5/34 (I have a bolt neck) give me a shout.
'Desert boots on feet, perhaps.'
Wow. On feet, eh?
Is that a tip from Ian Strachan or JS?
Mm, a grey shirt I do not like the sound of. Grey knitwear, grey sport coat, overcoat, flannels, possibly even cords. But not a shirt or shoes.
John Simons. He held the great desert boot seminar in 1987. 'Lined or unlined : crepe and suede in the natural shoulder wardrobe.'
Grey seems to be everywhere now … cars, houses, battleships.
Today I am mostly modelling Jake's red chambray on Instagram. Feast your eyes Ivyists!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CVN-48SMsDQ/?utm_medium=share_sheet
I shall reserve that particular, especial pleasure for later - i.e. after four episodes of 'The Sopranos' (which is turning out to be very horn-inducing in places: the visit to Naples, yes?). That lady gang boss...!!
A pinkish red, and I'm a pink shirt fanatic, so right up my street. I love it, in fact.
Didn't Chens take you down many years ago for wearing a tie and a jacket lapel of different widths?
I've looked. I've admired. But I'll be sticking to that shade of blue Jimbo and I agreed was 'periwinkle'.
Yes he did. What a cocksucker he was. Having rubbed a natural shoulder or two with dear old Bruce Boyer and Richard 'The Rug' Press I think Chensvold started to believe he was some kind of arbiter of taste, an Ivy Beau Brummel. Remarkable the lengths he went to in an attempt to score points against 'the English fanatics''. Frosty Mellor must have driven him to the point of some kind of breakdown, so personal and vindictive were his attacks on people he'd never met. I also think he envied the edge we had as outsiders with our own weird take on it all. He thought we idolised America and all wanted to be American. He really didn't have a clue about British humour, British class or British popular culture. A big chin, a pipe and a polo coat - that's how I'll always think of dear old Christian, the Norse God.
The pipe shtick... ugh... the big chin... mother nature... the polo coat I can kinda live with... And why not a hound of some description, just to complete the picture? I dunno. It all seems either a long way from/too close to the campus for comfort. Boy, did I hate those middle-class undergraduates I was forced to mix with.
In all honesty though, a wider tie would look superb with those lapels.
I love wide(ish) ties and have some killers in my collection. (That never get worn.)
I have to disagree old chap. I feel wide ties distort the line of the collar roll. That's why I invariably go for the skinny tie. If 'Chens' says it's wrong it's right.
I don't think the new IS guy is malicious like Chens occasionally was. But he knows less about ivy, dresses a lot more badly than Chens ever did and doesn't take criticism kindly. Overall, then, Chens was better, in that at least he had a readable and, in recent years, reasonably good website, plus he never banned Jake, Woof or me from the IS FB page.
At the same time, I doubt the new guy would criticise a British book about ivy, purely on the grounds of its being British. Although I can imagine him failing to report on it.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-10-19 17:43:05)
He banned me. And I was banned from this place on many occasions, by Woof once or twice I think.
You're a northern soul man, right?
'I'm just a drifter, I go from place to place . . .'
Haven't heard that in years.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-10-19 17:50:12)
Towards the end of his IS tenure Chens mellowed towards this place, perhaps recognising that it held some knowledge and value. He went through his own form of evolution, realising that there were other strands of the Ivy look beyond the narrow East Coast view. When Talk Ivy started to run out of steam he even asked if he could help to get it going again, but I was dubious.
I like the red chambray on your IG page 2RS and I must say that you look very chipper and full of beans (have you had work done?). I never banned you, as far as I can remember, you bring too much to the table. Or maybe I did when you appeared under some new soubriquet for the sole purpose of taking the piss, but that’s all water under the bridge now. and you remain as one of my Ivy icons.
I never really got it, that Frosty/Chensvold rift. Nor did I much care. I thought the review of the Marsh/Gaul book a little mean-spirited perhaps, but that's another story.
Perhaps Christian cared too much about what others thought. You should dress/act/think for yourself. Anyone who cares to visit me at home won't exactly find me 'Ivy-ied up', if you'll pardon the expression. They'll find me in the cardigan my cat sharpens her claws on.
With reference to 'Ivy in England', for me it has to begin and end with John Simons and our Gibson. It's my only experience. I recognise - and salute - the London Jewish input. Those chaps may not have wanted to be Americans but did they not look to NYC as some kind of beacon? Ironic that a small shop in Covent Garden should exert such a magic spell - and I'm glad I never made that pilgrimage to Brooks Brothers only to be disappointed.
Maybe NYC is best off resting in my circa 1962 imagination.
In several visits to NYC I've never seen many men who jumped out at me as having an Ivy look. If you hang around in J Press long enough then someone might come in, but on the street, in bar and restaurants, very little. Boston had a few more around the Cambridge area. Stateside, the biggest concentration of males I encountered who had a made a conscious effort to dress in the style were found in the canteen of the Capitol Building in DC.
Was there ever a time where there was a noticeable adoption of the Ivy look in the UK? Has it ever gone beyond a handful of enthusiasts who patronised businesses of John Simons?
Most people who wore some of the Ivy look in UK (via local brands) would not of known they were doing it is my guess.
^ Agreed. I wonder if some of the types I knew circa 1972 even latched onto it as 'Americana' or whatever you prefer to call it. A lot of chaps knew about 'red tag' but only a minority wore them. It was just a music/football thing. The revivalist Mods I knew were more self-conscious but the 'Americana' thing was slightly underground and accessed via Dylan, Tom Waits, Clift, Dean, Brando, rockabilly, even the Velvet Underground. It was very tenuous. But, in 1977, Talking Heads and Tom Verlaine had at least as much impact as home-grown punk rock. But we wore what we could get our hands on, from low-key shops like 'Society' or better known places like 'G-Force' or 'ID'. Later, there were the first 'vintage' places around us, selling imported clothing. Levis were the thing, then - for me - board shirts and warm-up jackets. I knew nothing of 'Ivy League'.
I distinctly remember that Ivy based look by Dexys back in 84 for the Don't Stand Me Down album and thinking WTF? I was 16 and in the tail end of Mod but secretly engaged in electronic music early House etc too, listening to Psych and VU etc. I wore loads of cheap repro-Mod Ivy without knowing what it's origins were from about 82 onwards. I was vintage+Carnaby St stuff like most.
I had a huge row only a few years ago with someone who should know better who though all Mod influences came from Italy and just could not understand Ivy or the USA style. I bought them a copy of The Ivy Look!
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-10-20 07:53:11)
Our Gibson would bless you for that: a steering in the right direction. 1978/9 were years of flux and confusion. Some stayed with DMR, others went with The Bureau (whatever became of them?), yet others went Two-Tone. Previously, around 1977 into 1978 very heavy Jamaican music was the thing. A few of us used to turn up at very heavy West Indian places where we were treated with amused tolerance. Prince Far-I was huge, also Dillinger, Militant Barry and others. But we drifted around, always on the look-out for something, never quite knowing what.