I've always had serious, albeit possibly irrational doubts about Gant; based upon pure, firm predjudices. I see the old stuff and like what I see, but I can't bring myself to own it. I had a Madras but passed it on.
Recessions are tough on over-priced brands like Gant. Consumers are more careful with their money. They also dress more smartly and tend to favour brands that manufacture in their country (a form of economic nationalism or patriotism). Hence we see Barbours everywhere in Britain.
A rather dispiriting trot down our high street this morning. Bits and bobs: Korean made poly/cotton London Fog polo shirt. Smedley for a midget. Bought an Indian-made navy Gant poplin shirt for £4.50. Not good, really. It was more exciting buying pizza in the Co-Op. Quite an interesting shop has opened, selling a bit of 'vintage' at the back. RL to be found there, needless to say. The rest: not 'Ivy' but one or two bits could probably be thrown into the current mix. A Danish-made heavy canvas (perhaps) jacket at £85. I did not bite.
Mm. A good deal of online horseshit concerning who wears it and why etc. A quick trawl through Ebay, however, brings up a number of items marketed as 'vintage' that look okay. I was rather put off by seeing one of their golf jackets being worn by an obvious OAP probably off to do a bit of shopping with 'er indoors before stopping off for a coffee (the kind of remark that would have got me a verbal kicking from that Oo Bop character), but mature reflection tells me that, minus the silly logo and worn by a younger man, it might not look too bad. The couple of shirts I own will get an airing - when all the BB are in the wash. I dunno. How do they compare with RL?
I've always had a few Gant items in the wardrobe. I decluttered my place in the 90s and a lot of good stuff went to charity shops. Within a year I regretted doing so. I still have a few shirts without logos but the name GANT on the locker loop. That I don't mind. I did buy a Gant Yale co-op shirt in a blue gingham check made in China I think but not bad. I do like shirts with a top pocket.
A brand with a great history and which once had solid Ivy credentials. But gone the way of many others with, slim fit and small collars on the shirts and low rise trousers. 3 or 4 years ago they brought out a simple blue sans logo OCBD said to be based on shirts from their golden age, the usual heritage marketing play. Their window display in the Richmond branch was based around one of these shirts, it didn’t look bad from the pavement, don’t know if they still do it, but I suppose if you could find one of them on ebay it might be okay. They seem to produce quite decent looking Harrington jackets and polo shirts, apart from that damn logo. Their stuff is favoured by Range Rover driving, golf club types around here … and pensioner gents that still retain some want to cut a dash when they go to Iceland and Costa with ‘er indoors’.
I had reason to go to Richmond recently and while I was waiting for a friend to arrive wandered around the Gant shop, couldn't move for logos, I've had plenty of their shirts over the years ( logo free), and always favoured them over RL, (no pocket is a deal breaker for me), but I guess they need to chase the younger (non Ivy) customer, those Yale Co-Op shirts they did about 10 years ago were good, even some of us 'pensioner gents' wanting to cut a dash will avoid the logo !
All good points, Mr. W.
It's interesting that they don't turn up in large numbers in charity/'vintage'/'retro' shops - in stark contrast to RL, which another chap on here (quite likely Robbie) reckoned would have been thrifted at TKMaxx before finally turning up in the aforesaid 'vintage' emporiums (often staffed by very pleasant girls who are amused/bemused/horrified to find some obvious old perv like me rooting through their stock. They are expecting somebody more along the lines of Bobby Boy Band perhaps). Tommy also turns up in large numbers and on Saturday afternoon in a single street I found Farah (cue for sniggers from Sammy), Champion, A&F, Orvis, Land's End - none of them a bit of good. No RL and no Gant. Twenty years ago I could pick up RL for work easy as falling off a log. Probably not Made In The USA, though - more likely Malaysia in those days.
So, are the crusties hanging onto their Gant acquisitions?
Yuca mentioned their good old stuff being quite expensive when it shows up.
I wonder if Skipper or one of our other American friends can tell us anything: from their end.
Sorry but what's wrong with Orvis and Lands End now? In my view, nothing.
Oh, of course an olive-coloured 'arrington has been mentioned favourably on 'TI'. It seems, though, that olive was often a rather uncommon colour for our old friend the G9, just as POW check was circa 1970. I might well consider a 'grubby olive' G4. Yes indeed.
AUS, just my never-ending bias against Third World outsourcing.
The Farah duffle coat, from six feet away, looked all right but, upon closer inspection, was anything but. It was a sham.
In 'Wild' last month, two tan cord jackets were hanging side by side. One USA, the other Chinese. Superficially, they looked quite similar. The Chinese appear to be excellent at copying. I bought neither as it happens, plumping for a cord-collared mac instead - made in Korea, so I'm contradicting myself somewhat. Only the old raincoat looks good and the Orvis/Land's End stuff didn't.
All highly personal and entirely subjective.
It will help if you don't put out these generalisations about brands with no context based only on local charity shop finds. Your personal experience of one second hand item isn't representstivd more broadly.
I have a fantastic green harrington designed for colder wear with hidden zip in hood and patch/flap pockets from LE that nobody makes anymore.
All brands broadly relevant to Ivy have their good and bad so a touch of care needed in posting.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2021-10-18 06:07:22)
Well, I don't disagree: up to a point. I'd love to find somewhere to compare and contrast.
But there was a fair amount of Smedley about (again). Most looked pretty good, a single piece was very bad indeed.
And they're made up the road.
Actually, the last USA made item I've seen, a week ago, was very bad indeed - albeit unexpected.
Yet somehow you 'doubted' Grenfell as a brand when that is made in UK and made from their own cloth woven in the UK. Not based on anything but your feelings again. Yet I spent my money with them and put some employment in, for certain.
It's okay to have a view based on your seeing one old item in a charity shop, but I think you need to acknowledge this isn't presentative of a brand as a whole.
As for outsourcing, that's a whole other, more complicated thing. If we really wanted to go there we would be wearing something like Community Clothing and their excellent range. Let's leave the term 'third world' in the past too. We spent decades using their resources, then sending work out to them to keep prices affordable, then criticise their quality based on a preference to make in the UK. Go out and talk in those countries and you get short thrift based pretty quickly as they talk about the literal tonnes of rubbish we still send to dump or burn on their land. All I'm saying is, it's complicated.
Erm, the other name that is now a bit frowned upon is Alan Paine. I've plenty of experience of their output, including a couple of exported (I suppose) to the USA cashmere v-necks (apparently they moved a lot of stuff to the USA at one time), slipovers, scarves, polo shirts and other bits and bobs, some of which are nice and some of which are not. I might once have seen them as on a par with, say, Grenfell, but now... There is no absolute certainty one way or the other but some on here eschew them. Probably not English-made. Probably not good quality. Not unlike - to give an obvious example - the Clarks' desert boot.