As Theo said over the phone they're very high rise and quite snug, IIRC on an average size it was a little bit more than 13" rise and a little bit less than 17 or 16" leg bottoms...
Maybe I'll simply size up, better I save a bit money and try them on. Always best advice.
Cotton and 'Made In The USA' remains more important to me than any other consideration. So I'll take modest pleats if I must. I can't see chinos as anything other than trousers for knocking about in (maybe even more so than jeans), so old L.L. Bean do the job fairly well.
^John Simons cotton chinos 34" waist, 13.5" rise, 15.5" leg bottoms.....I've got an unworn pair in dark khaki with 37" unhemmed legs which I'll let go for £45.
sounds fine, maybe a little too tapered?
I hope I still fit in a 34" waist at a 13.5" rise...
Last time I tried a pair of his Chinos was in Covent Garden. At that point in time they really bagged out around my thighs and did not look good on me at all.
Are the ones he is retailing now of a different silhuette? Must admit I haven't tried any on in Chiltern St.
I wish Jim would say something about those old cotton Levis he wore at the Ivy Shop. They're just about right.
LOL! And another for Yuca - lol.
Last edited by Prof Kelp (2011-12-19 16:20:09)
I used to think that knitwear defined the style. Now, having newly examined photographs from the early 60s, I'm pretty much convinced that high-waisted trousers, the correct rise defined it. One up to Yuca.
Not necessarily chinos BTW. More the sta-prest, razor sharp, rather synthetic look. The young male with the trim body. Maybe a more 'fitted' look all round than some us favour.
The 1950s ivy look was the aesthetic peak. By the 1960s it was far too tapered. A lot of companies even stopped putting cuffs on trousers. Of course the big names never went too tapered in the 1960s, but they were the minority. I have 1960s ties that are almost string.
In Golden Age Ivy the proper high waist, sitting on the hips, and the looser cut of the shirts (marketed as 'traditional') allowed the stay pressed look to be adaptable to both slim young bucks and the portlier but still fabulously handsome man in his 50s and 60s. I have a pair of Esquire-approved early 60s Dacron slacks (called I-V) which I confess I now feel rather daft wearing... sob. Still can't put me off white Levis though!
Yes, there's something about white Levis (if you can keep them white) that whispers many interesting things about cross-pollination (a stolen phrase, I freely admit). I once had a couple of pairs (wouldn't fit me now), worn sometimes with a Career Club shirt and cola-hued Italian desert boots. They would look entirely wrong on me now, though, as I sit quivering and drooling in my brushed cotton M&S jim-jams waiting to get my Covid booster. On David Hemmings - or our Gibson - certainly. Viva!
It’s definitely the cut of the trouser, it creates a different silhouette. Look at any of the apparent Ivy influenced styling from today, be that Drake’s, PRL or whoever. Obviously you can get O’Connell’s on the other side of the water but not cost effective for us on this side. Vintage finds always have the best cut, be that a pair of 100% cotton Levi’s Sta Prest (the originals were not a mix, it was a heat process that kept the permanent crease) or a pair of Flannels.
I’m still a shade under 50 and like to wear both slimmer cut high water tapered pants as well as a fuller cut. Admittedly I’m pretty vain and exercise often to keep slim (tricky when I love my food), guess I’m naturally pretty slim anyway which helps. I may well be deluded of course thinking these slimmer cuts still look ok on me - I can’t post a photo so can’t back up any of this.
I’ll be interested to see what Jake’s produce, as already discussed his shirts are pretty bang on (I have one of the Green Oxfords) and I’m sure the same attention with go into these too.
Tom, I'd no idea they were once 100 per cent cotton. Interesting. Difficult to come by?
From the Levi's history pages...
The first STA-PREST™ garments were produced in 1963: trousers made from 100 percent cotton twill and sateen. These high-end slacks were offered for sale for the 1964 season. Although they were immediately popular, it was soon discovered that all-cotton clothing could not withstand the curing process. Eventually, all products had to be made with synthetic fabrics, or blends of synthetic and natural fabrics (usually a 65/35 blend).
As far as finding them, pot luck really - I actually think it was more a cost saving exercise the switch from 100% cotton as all my vintage pairs have a fantastic creases, be that a pair of corduroy trousers or Slimfits.
Thanks, Tom, that's very informative. I still see them in the flesh from time to time but I'm pretty sure they'll be the mix. (Same with some Brooks cords I saw recently). At pushing sixty two (end of the month) I'm virtually living in chinos and jeans that are rumpled, crumpled and all the rest of it. My cat just had her claws clipped, thank heaven! There's definitely a renewed 'Woody' vibe going on with me now.