I suspect most of us look in from time to time even if it makes little impression. Having said that there are cherries to be picked from most trees. Only a little imagination is sometimes necessary.
Anyway, I'd meant to say this before: 'Ivy Style' has not been wholly unkind about what goes on in retail at Chiltern Street or about Ivy in the UK in general. It refers to 'generic Americana', but I don't think that's a hundred per cent misplaced. It's not unusual to read about this, that or the other being thrown 'into the mix'.
I never did understand (really) the JFM/CC malarkey.
I'm still here to learn.
I've only mentioned it around 47 times in the last month so you won't have noticed: IS has a new headman and the content has no connection to that of the past. The chances of the new guy knowing why JS is relevant to the supposed subject of his site are almost non-existent.
On the plus side: he does get guest writers in, some of whom may provide something worth a read.
On the minus side: the new guy is unreadably bad and has almost zero knowledge of or interest in ivy clothing. Why the hell he decided to devote his life to ivy I have no idea but I was in IS FB for quite some time whilst he was running it (before he turfed me out) plus I was FB 'friends' with him (he sent me the request then later unfriended me). I have never seen a photo of him looking ivy. Which wouldn't be a problem if he could write about the subject.
At least - as they acknowledge - the Ivy 'wars' are over.
For IS, ivy is over.
I feel a little jealous you've been turfed out of IS FB Yuca, what's your secret ?
With all due humility, it takes a lot of skill, talent and personality. Of course those are qualities that our own Woofboxer also has, but, to be fair, in far smaller quantities than I do, hence he only got a month's ban, even though he posted on there considerably more than I did.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-11-23 16:40:58)
I didn't screenshot it, but as I recall: the new guy posted a link on the IS FB page to his latest IS article, someone commented that it was so badly-written as to be incoherent, and I responded: have you ever read anything by him that doesn't fit that description?
I had had a debate with him a while before that in which I told him, in a sensitive manner, that he would benefit from further studying the topic of ivy clothing. My tact was in vain because as far as he's concerned he's an expert. For that reason, I gave up wasting my time giving him advice and instead bit my tongue for a while. Then eventually I lost my patience.
Obviously there's nothing wrong with not being an expert on something and it certainly doesn't deny someone the right to hold and share an opinion. But pomposity and arrogance bug me. Particularly when the person in question doesn't have a damn clue what they're talking about.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-11-23 17:07:45)
Can anyone make any sense of his gibberish.
Setting yourself up as an 'expert' is always unwise. It's a little like assuming that a perfect stranger knows nothing. I once had a taxi driver ask me, during my 'intellectual' phase, if I liked Thomas Mann. One of the nicest things about 'Talk Ivy' is the willing sharing of information. Another is the 'Search' function. One can look up, say, Rancourt or Sero, with ease. I'm constantly learning. JFM, for all his silliness, was never shy about sharing information. As Pope (I think it was) is reputed to have said, A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
The new guy told someone on the FB IS page that a black colour (neck)tie is not ivy. Rather than telling him he was talking complete crap I politely told him that he would be wise to study the topic of ivy clothing further. His response was that he'd written a chapter about ivy clothing for a book. Which I assume is true. Maybe it's even a good chapter (although the chances are slim). Nonetheless he would have been wise to have taken my advice.
'I once had a taxi driver ask me, during my 'intellectual' phase, if I liked Thomas Mann.'
These people need to learn their place. I hope you didn't tip him.
It was Pope but he wrote 'A little learning is a dangerous thing'.
Last edited by Yuca (2021-11-24 07:58:09)
Ah. Thank you. I certainly didn't tip him. Now, had he asked me about Yukio Mishima, Lady Murasaki or Earl Der Biggers I might have considered it. But euro-trash like Thomas Mann? Pfffff....
I think someone at 'Ivy Style' designated the shoe as the single most important item in the Ivy wardrobe. Could be. Worth thinking about anyway. Plenty to choose from, ranging from, say, Alden wingtips to the 'humble' (albeit often highly-priced) 'sneaker' or 'trainer'. I still think some kind of khaki suede boot is very lovely, Clarks' or otherwise. Very versatile with the appropriate sole. Didn't Perkins wear desert boots with a corduroy suit?
I happen to think the shoe is the most important item. You can be almost fully 'ivyed up' but if you put on the wrong shoe it will be noticed. As you say plenty to choose from and it's not a restrictive problem. I wear desert boots nearly all the time but they generally go with the rest of it
I popped over to IS to see what the fuss was all about and it was the shoes I noticed first. In my opinion there were (mostly) all the right clothes being worn but not necessarily in the right order. But each to their own.
Agreed, Robbie. Plenty of bad-looking, poor-quality shoes about. Easiest way to detract from any attempt at overall styling.
The shoes being the most important part of an outfit (perhaps more so for men) is a widely-held belief that is not exclusive to ivy let alone IS.
Some of the posts on Ivy Style seem to be streching the term ivy to breaking point. Perhaps it's me being all English, conservative and reserved.
Ivy in England displays more, I suppose, in the way of 'discipline'. There are boundaries that are never - or seldom - crossed. More Madras shirts will be seen than jackets or shorts. That's following a tradition. The bow-tie is rarely seen (too Robin Day). Even a repp or foulard is sometimes seen as a concession, the more relaxed knitted tie, with its modern jazz associations, being preferred. The purist will not accept a darted jacket. The purist will very often not accept pleats (although I have and would and so, I believe, has Mr. Simons from time to time).
In spite of their reservations in the past, 'Ivy Style' does seem to give more than a nod to Ivy in England. They were sometimes goaded in the past, in a way that was not constructive.
My leanings probably remain more 'collegiate' than the average, though I do it in a very different way from fourteen or fifteen years ago, when I wore varsity jackets, letter sweaters and, say, Notre Dame warm-ups. Now it's a duffle coat, college scarf and my cherished Harvard key-ring.
I've gone back to feeling a kind of warmth towards 'Take Ivy'.
Anything else?
We need a poster like Big Tony back on here: critical but passionate.
I drew the line at bow ties for everyday wear. I worked with a few architects who wore bow ties and they were invariably 'wankers' . Architects who wore BD white shirts and knitted ties were on my wavelength and I knew they would be good at their jobs. This is London/Brighton locations. Elsewhere may have been different.
'Some of the posts on Ivy Style seem to be streching the term ivy to breaking point. Perhaps it's me being all English, conservative and reserved.'
I'm pretty sure anyone who's into ivy clothing would agree, regardless of where they're from. The new guy running IS put a selfie up (on the site) a few weeks ago that I was tempted to share here and/or on Dressedwell, but in the end I couldn't be bothered. To me it's a car crash (maybe others would say it's ok). And I know from when we were FB 'friends' that the selfies he shares on TI are actually far more ivy than what he wears on a daily basis.
So with someone in charge who is completely clueless there is no hope of any sartorial focus.
(I'm referring to the post on bit loafers.)
It's beginning to look very much like they're trying to turn it into some kind of on line magazine for mythical, recently graduated from Yale or Harvard college kids.
The type of thing that if it existed in printed form would be laid, neatly fanned out on a low table outside the main office. Never to be picked up by the people it's aiming at.
I guess there was bound to be something along the lines of 'separate development', beginning years ago. Lucky Jim probably wore a tweed jacket, grey flannels and lace-ups but almost certainly not a button-down shirt - not like his counterpart in an American institution of similar standing. The English, in short, were often the scruffs they all too often remain today (no, really). It took a Cecil, a Lou, a Hector Powe even to smarten them up a bit. And now? Look around you. But we may have now found a common ground with the Americans we'd really rather not have. Does 'Chinese Ivy' come next? Just take a look at Ebay.
I only ever checked in with the Ivy Style site when it was referenced here. I just did again. Yikes. “I haven’t worn socks since Easter.?? The new editor seemed to be trying so hard. The whole “dogged pursuit of excellence?? thing. I sense they’re trying to “brand?? the whole enterprise as clubhouse -where Brooklyn Fashion bloggers and paunchy old men can drop in and chat about beard oil, awning stripes and microbreweries.
You know the old Venn diagram that illustrates that certain elements of two areas share some characteristics. I increasingly think the subject of Ivy is like that when looking at it from either a UK or American perspective.
I should imagine that non of the British posters on here went to an Ivy League college and as such draw their ivy inspirations from other sources such as jazz, old movies/tv shows or a general love of Americana. I don't think of Ivy with any connotations of class, religion or education. It's just great clothes that are different from so much of what is out there.
I'm sure that there are guys in the states that simply love the clothes too but you can't escape the fact that in the USA it incorporates an East Coast establishment vibe as well.
Whilst we can all love a great collar roll, an unstructured shoulder and a pair of loafers I'm not that comfortable with mock regimental tie's and don't envision that Ivy traditionalists would like my Vetra Curly Curly jacket