Ha.  I'd forgotten all about this.  First Monty, then Agnelli, then the sainted Johns, S and G.  Anyone else?  I have mixed feelings.  If there's a rather insipid look and feel to the collar (which there so often is) I unbutton.  With a Makers on the other hand I tend to keep the buttons fastened for the roll. 
I think Monty may have gone in for a little sprezzatura. 

'New York, New York, Forty-Second Street
Hustlers hustle and pimps pimp the beat
Monty Clift is recognized at dawn
Ain't got no shoes and his clothes are torn...'