Leaving 'Mad Men' aside, there is a look that often crops up in movies, on TV, sometimes in advertising, often in black and white studies sold on Ebay. I still have a few of those, tucked away in cardboard boxes.
A hat of some description is almost always involved. This hat will most often have a band. A dark suit comes to mind. Probably a white or blue shirt and a tie in some restrained pattern else solid. Shoes will be hefty. No loafers. There will often be a raincoat, either worn or carried across one arm.
The wearer may have worn 'Ivy' clothing as a college kid but has moved on into the big bad world of work.
It's close - possibly - to the Brooks look of 'Don't Stand Me Down'. But maybe not that close.
It looks utterly, utterly Big City American but variations will probably be found everywhere.
He may wear a bowling shirt and chinos when off guard/duty. Not sure about the footwear.
Anyone identify this look? Just 'man in grey flannel suit'?
Our man is still wearing brogues. But not longwings, more wingtips. Brown?
Is there a difference? Colourwise I'd guess black or dark brown. Cordo? I wouldn't like to say.
I recorded The Detective a film starring Frank Sinatra (1968) it was on Talking Pictures, the film itself was a bit flimsy but the look you're describing was pretty much bang on in this film. It was one of my main reasons for watching it. Francis was always a top dresser IMO.
Orange sweaters aside... Orange, like purple and some shades of green, is an 'Ivy no-no' even for Francis Albert. But I'll give that movie a look. He wore a hat well - very well. Joking apart, R, you're right, he was superb as a stylist. Someone I once knew bumped into him in a lift and reckoned he was quite affable. A raft of stories say otherwise. Bipolar, too, I think, which might explain a few things.