Ooh...  well, a gorgeous roll on the collar, naturally...  soft placket with the least number of buttons possible...  flap pocket perhaps...  yes, I think so...  Discreet pleat...  Maybe that little thingie that Mercer shirts have at the bottom of the placket...  what would you call that?  Colour: periwinkle blue.

This little 'detail' called the 'perfect fit' for my body (& soul). And obviously the specific collar roll. I tell you, I´ve spent hours and hours of talking to shirtmakers about the perfect collar. (Under the constant risk of getting thrown out immediately ...)

Not so much about ordering than wearing, but I‘ve found that unlined collars go best with sweat shirts or on their own, lined (but unfused) collars stand up much better to heavy knitwear. I somehow dread the look of a shirt collar that looks like a squashed handkerchief under a Norwegian yoke sweater. Therefore I‘d specify the collar according to the needs.

On detailing (as I may have mentioned earlier), I wouldn‘t use all possible choices on one shirt. But if you want a beagle collar with flap pocket(s), pencil loop and a poacher‘s pocket at the rear, who‘s to stop you?

Last edited by The Absintheist (2021-11-25 06:47:22)

I have a very long, erm...., torso so I need a long body and tails in my Ivy b/d, and I like that stitched in V at the bottom of the placket on Mercer shirts. Kamakura's Vintage Ivy cleverly copied this but failed to make the body long enough to make it adequately tuck-in-able. Jake's has the very best collar - no competition!

Christ, I've just been looking at a photograph of a J.Crew shirt: cheap, pinched, nasty, mangled-looking collar.  Excruciating.