As a book lover, I know exactly what you mean Hank.
Maybe I should say Andy that my travels have taken place for two reasons; one is that its great to meet people in person that you've respect for, and second its great to find fabrics in the regions were their made. To meet Mr. Sabino and be measured and fitted in his atlier was really a great experience. I took my own fabric. I could have had fittings in London but I wanted the full experience. A really great guy and to talk with someone like that about clothes and listen to stories about the history of his trade was great. Barry Coleman is based in my old home town, trained on Savile Row, a great tailor. Robert Oakes, head Scabal Uk Sales rates him highly. That is someone who has met most, if not all, bespoke tailors who stock Scabal. Again, a pleasure to meet and talk with.
Using Ryanair I got enough fabric in Italy for 5 suits and 2 overcoats. 2xs160 suitings, 3xWool & cashmere mix suitings and 2xW/cash mix for Overcoats. All not notch quality for silly money, Mr Coleman can't belive what I paid. I've saved myself at least £600 on each suit made. Maybe a bit less on the coats. Well done me I say. I've also been on a tour of Scabals mill this year which was interesting, to me, and again, managed to get some top quality fabric at a good (if not Italy good) price. Its not a question of being flash, its more time and effort to get the best at an affordable price. I don't have a high flying job, I'm just a lowly plumber who works his butt off. Luxury is not a dirty word to me. We're not so different I think Andy, I'm wearing a sky OCBD, salvage 501's, merino cable knit, Barker full grain brogues which will be worn under a tonic Burberry. Socks? multi-coloured Austin Reed jobbies. Tasty!
Yes, it's been said that you work very hard for what you like to wear. Can't fault you for that, Simon! It's the mod aesthetic experience - 'stepping up the tailoring' (George Melly in 'Revolt Into Style'?). I'm just behind the times!
Perhaps the conclusion I have to draw is that there are mods and then there are 'mods'. There are also 'Top Mods', which is something different again.
Jdemy may find something of interest here. A lot of blanks to be filled in, however.
Jdemy read as much as he could and then got bleary eyed and fainted.
JFM always emphasised 'The Look'. That was all that really mattered for him. If M&S, Uniqlo, Weller and the bog attendant at J.Press had come together, collaborated and created the perfect Ivy League shirt, he'd have given it some thought, some consideration.
'Wear Ivy League jackets
white buckskin shoes...'
Then the reference to 'tickets'. The Who in - 1964? 'Third-class tickets'? The same as 'haddocks'? As in 'Oh, all the haddocks are getting their suits made at Bilgorri now'. (I quote purely from memory).
The early Mods would have probably been contemptuous of 'Ready Steady Go'. The Modernists were probably oblivious. 'Stepping up the tailoring'. They have my deepest respect. I once considered MTM as the way to go. Even had conversations with an old master tailor. Took my number then failed to get in touch. I'm content with Bean flannel shirts now.
To be entirely fair, I knew a couple of 'Mods'/60s-soul enthusiasts around fifteen or so years ago who were fine: non-violent, anti-racist, just really into their scene. The young woman, Julie, was delightful: the way she styled her hair and everything. Not quite Cathy McGowan but close.
The early mods were on RSG for the most part. Indeed they can be seen in the vid I posted yesterday.
I shall certainly take a peek.
It's a brief clip of Mickey Tenner and other youngsters in Harringtons, cycling shirts and Levis, dancing the block.
Ah, the cycling Mod. Something of a continuum exists, I think, with certain aspects of cycling still associated with the Mod lifestyle. Wasn't the Italian influence significant early on?
I attended a Mod do for the first time in yonks the other day. It's a very strange little world isn't it?
I think mods were the first and only ones to take cycling shirts out of their original context (i.e. cycling) but I think they got the idea from Italian cyclists.
Paul Weller never had any credibility with us - which, in retrospect, was a pity. The Jam were rejected, along with a number of other groups, as 'inauthentic' (actually, we would have used a different word. 'Shit' springs to mind). The irony was, what we accepted turned out to be worse: Lydon, Strummer, all that pseudo-radical bollocks. Some - a minority - moved in the direction of the Velvet Underground, others toward that Liverpool bullshit, still others toward rockabilly, a few toward Dylan and Van Morrison. Everything was in the air and when the dust finally settled, Weller meant nothing at all. As I say, a pity. Lydon is now a joke, Strummer long dead, Pete Shelley of the Buzzcocks dead,
Thank heaven, then, for Chet, Miles, Frank, Blossom and Cole Porter. To name but a few.
Liverpool bullshit BTW = Echo And The Bunnymen, Pete Burns, Julian Cope etc.
'RSG'. Very nice. I'd have liked a bit more of that. They looked great, didn't they? - in total contrast to the youth of today. There's a very brief shot of a girl with a hairstyle I just about recall - and which the aforementioned Julie used to sport. The hair kind of projects forward in curves. Ravishing look.
Back in 2015 I met a few old 60s Mods who still looked terrific. One was still full-on Cathy McGowan, another was very Dusty Springfield. Enjoyed chatting to them.
Yes, I enjoyed that clip.
(In passing, some of the Nottingham 'vintage shops' circa 2005 were still yielding good 1960s clothing. There used to be a shop right at the top of Mansfield Road, just around the corner heading toward The Forest run by a young woman called Jess. Like Celia, on Derby Road, she offered clothing for hire. Very 'Swinging Sixties' rather than Mod. Knitwear and shirts could be unearthed. Most of those shops are long gone now. Jud, at 'Daphne's Handbag', used to do mostly 70s stuff. I never bit but bought a lot of glass, ceramics, textiles and so on).
I can't comment on modernists from personal experience as that was before my time , however I had an interest in clothes from an early age, I was clocking the ' mods' '63/64 as a 10/11 yr old, aspiring to be like them, (probably like RobbieB & Uncle Ian), my definition of ' Mod' is (usually) white working class kids ( 15-21 yrs old) obsessed with clothes, girls, having a good time etc, black music as it was ' cool' , no politics were involved then, when you saw black kids they carried the look off albeit slightly differently, I still see on old black friend ( Neville), who must now be in his '70's at football, he's still wearing loafers and a b/d, I think he saved my life or at least a beating when I was 15 yrs/old, but that's another story, a couple of guys who were about 3 yrs older than me were the guys I looked up to, they were on RSG, probably in the later shows,('65), some of you may or may not know this ,most of those kids on the early shows were ' recruited' from the Scene Club in Ham Yard, off Longacre, on a visit to Lloyd Johnson's Chris Hardy told me he still held a grudge against Cathy McGowen for not selecting him to go on RSG ! and that was after more than 50 yrs ! Another thing at that time I don't think the mods referred to theirselves as ' mods', and whilst I have nothing against the Who film I can't imagine the kids in Brighton '64 chanting ' we are the mods' , and probably a lot of those kids in Brighton would have been regarded as ' hard mods', I smile when I see guys in their 30's upwards still trying to sport a Steve Marriott haircut, FGS grow up a bit, I'm too old to know anything about the mod revivals, I'll leave that to others, final part of this largely un-coordinated post is that without mod happening in the '60's and the transition to Ivy Style clothes in the mid/ late '60's there wouldn't be any ivy style in the UK now, The Ivy Shop in Richmond would not have survived on the 'Young Professionals' they were focusing on when they opened, anyway that's what I think .......