A phrase lifted from elsewhere on the forum and used in reference to the late Jeff G.
I keep returning to these observations, particularly of Jeff but also of Ian Strachan. Okay - 'the limited pallet'. But JFM responded to it in a major way and it's had a big impact over me over the years: in consideration of what they probably never bothered their heads with.
I always had difficult wearing a crew neck Shetland (heaven knows I tried) but otherwise that look sounds like perfect Ivy to me. The loafers I think were Eastland. The button-down may have been Enro (perhaps a thin stripe). The cords may have been navy - Parkes?
It strips away so much.
Our TRS regarded Jeff as one of his top ten dressers. Maybe Ian, too. I can't remember. He and his friends - and JFM to begin with - thought Jeff was The Guv'Nor.
How much practise did it take?
That, people, will probably remain a total mystery.
Jeff. Ian. Nothing baroque.
When you think of it there is nothing remotely stylish about this description. It sounds so generic it borders on boring. And yet when you put it into the Ivy context of fit, detail and proportion it's like a coded message.
The cords might have a turn up and they're probably flat fronted. They're not too wide to be straight fit or follow the current trend to be low-rise and narrow. They have been tailored to the correct length. No pooling of fabric around the ankle or too short to flash novelty striped socks.
The loafers are well maintained but obviously worn in. They sit between smart and casual.
The button down rolls elegantly and has a larger collar than the current micro nonsense trend where the collar button takes up a disproportionally large amount of space. Again, it isn't this slim fit nonsense that looks like a girls blouse. It's roomy but the shoulders are bang-on. The locker loop and the back collar button that the wearer doesn't actually see sends out a deeply coded semaphore.
Finally, the shetland. Simple, and on closer inspection you can see the various natural shades that combine reflecting this is a hand framed garment of the highest quality. No logos or superfluous details are required.It may have a saddle should but it's not essential.
The only things missing from the description are the surcingle or leather braided belt. You can't get these easily in the UK but it's all about the details isn't it. If you're feeling a bit daring the argyle socks are the only thing you might consider, but these are toned into your look rather than being bright contrasting colours.
Everything considered. Nothing flash or fashion forward.
Alvey, you say this better than I ever could. That detail about the belt - spot on. JFM used to talk about a single 'stand-out' item. That might have been the knitwear if Patrick Nahman's instincts were correct (they invariably were). 'Hand-framed' - again, yes, beautiful.
I return to these 'less is more' looks over and over again.
My first sight of The Guv'nor: denim shirt, probably chinos, no socks, very grubby white Sebago boat shoes minus the laces. Never forgot that. 2 Russell Street was an education.
Shetlands are overrated.
It reminds of British Home Stores, when you could not afford the extra pound or two to buy decent lambswool from Marks.
Telly types always wore lambswool or cashmere.
I don’t care if Shetland is Ivy.
Time to revive your famous thread 'Shit You Will Not Wear...'
On M&S lambswool. I was pleased to find a decent couple of v-neck sweaters 'Made In England' back in October. But a Shetland crew neck can be a thing of great satisfaction. I had one in teal years ago. Had to pass it on to someone on here but it was lovely.
^ It's funny how things go in circles. A few years ago trying to get a shetland of any quality was quite difficult. I was staying in Glasgow and nobody stocked them - only cheap cashmere for the tourists. Now they are plentiful. Everybody including Anderson and Shepperd, Drakes, Trunk and End carry them.
Yes, I remember that Shetland was the cheap option when I was at school but now it's more expensive than a lot of lambswool products. I'm not sure of the economics, but I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of lambswool knits are now from China.
I highly rate Cordings for their lambswool products.
I love Shetlands, but during the 80's Harrington in Guildford didn't stock Shetlands, it was all Lambswool crew neck, V neck and sleeveless. This would be Scottish knitwear like Braemar or English varieties such as Byford & Alan Paine. So all my knitwear was lambswool.
Navy lambswool and cashmere for me now. V-neck and in any variation. But it must be made in the UK (don't mind where), the USA or Italy. Braemar is good stuff, isn't it?
It was, I bought my Dad a lambswool V-neck for Christmas about 40 years ago, but I think some of it's later stuff was made in Hong Kong.
Mm, Hong Kong did seem to be quite a centre for knitwear at one point.
For all the Shetland fans, Crompton has an article on the stuff with another one to follow.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/12/the-guide-to-shetland-sweaters-part-one.html
The man who always looks the same whatever he wears will probably come up with a specially-commissioned, limited-edition Shetland jumper in due course. It will be very expensive.
Crompton has to resort to casual clothing since his reviews of expensive, bespoke, Italian suits will no longer put food on the table
Just had a peek Kingston1an, it looks like he's modelling ones made by Skippers Mill which are reasonably priced Shetlands, I'm surprised it wasn't Malloch's.
Shetlands by brand
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/12/the-guide-to-shetland-sweaters-part-two-brands.html
Cut to ribbed cuff exposing Rolex Submariner/Yacht Master blah blah blah.
Simon Crompton does put a lot of work into his articles and that piece about Shetlands is very informative. The table at the end listing the measurements of different makers is typical of his attention to detail, but the clothes snobbery runs through his writings and the Submariner wearers are the target audience. But he does seem to be leaning more towards the Ivy look as time goes on and quite often gives John Simons a plug. That William Crabtree shop looks good, I must have a look in there.
Personally, I wish he would stick to writing content for iGents. You know the type, collar and tie but no socks. Shirts that are so fitted they look fit to burst at the seams.
They are fickle fashion folk. The antithesis of this Ivy thing of ours.
Ivy has longevity. It is not some here today, gone tomorrow look. Most of the people here are passionate aficionados who have arrived at the style, understand its principles and pulled together their personal interpretations of the look.
And it's certainly not influenced by freebies.
Jesus, watches. And that snobbery that Woof refers to. The world of Ivy may be slightly arcane in certain aspects, but even poor old Jimbo would willingly share information, praise someone else's style, admit he'd not come across such and such an item etc. etc.
2 Russell Street was never snobbish and I never found Chiltern Street to be, either. Some bod from the House Of Lords was hanging around Russell Street one morning, another time it was a boxer I'd never heard of. But JS performed the introductions.
I've seen photographs of one or two of Crompton's items. Very nice, too. But wearing something to show off your watch (unless you're Agnelli) is going it a bit. I used to wear my Dad's 50s Rolex (very understated, believe me), but just to tell the time not to pose with. Now I wear something with a name I can't pronounce which cost £25. Does exactly the same as the Rolex.
Personally, I wish he would stick to writing content for iGents. You know the type, collar and tie but no socks. Shirts that are so fitted they look fit to burst at the seams.
They are fickle fashion folk. The antithesis of this Ivy thing of ours.
Just another bandwagon jumper
Last edited by Runninggeez (2021-12-16 06:16:03)
Do you suppose there might be a bit of cash in it?
How Strachan would laugh if ever he became aware of this nonsense.
I don't have problem with an expensive watch. I like Rolex sports models and see them as design classics in the same way as a 911 or Eames Recliner.
I think a watch and a wedding ring are the only Jewellery a gentleman should ever wear.
A watch, regardless of cost, should remain tucked away under your sleeve and not in anyway be a signifier.
Worse than flashing a watch is the trend to have beads or coloured string wrapped around your wrist. Worst still if you're middle aged.
Alvey, are you of an age to remember 'Medallion Man'?
Watch and wedding ring - my aesthetic entirely.
Coloured string? Beads? I once saw some prick wearing purple Crocs. Maybe he'd have been the type.
Yes. Watch and wedding ring only. Even these days I can’t leave the house without a watch on. I’m not in a position to be looking at Rolex. But I don’t have a problem with them apart from when they’re flashed around.
Beads and bangles - in my mind only worn by middle aged ‘I’m a free spirit man’ ex mortage advisors who saw the shit coming in 2008 and buggered off to Thailand to lay low for a while.
Watchless = naked. I've been wearing something or other since I was about eight or nine. We weren't allowed to wear a watch to the grammar school I went to - a clock in every classroom, you see - and probably only Aldous Huxley could have predicted the coming of the mobile 'phone. Casio were once a favourite: cheap, cheerful and utterly useless once the strap wore through.